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The first rig I had after finally selling the SVT and 810 I was using was two Joe’s Pro 15’s and a Joe’s 10 with a GK 800RB. Those things were bulletproof—and heavy by today’s standards…

jphilauren said:

Thanks so much for info I’m wondering if the D 131 were added afterward, but I’m being told this is a 15 inch speaker

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A 12” fitted into the space for a 15” would not only be strange, but you’d need some sort of spacing ring to accomplish that. The seller may be working with erroneous information. If/when you open up the cab, a couple of these is what you should see…

…(although they should theoretically be two 8ohms in series. This 16 ohm driver was from when a pair would be wired for an 8 ohm cab).
As I mentioned earlier, you can pry off the grill cloth frame in front(be careful and methodical) to get a preview of what’s actually inside the box.

There’s an Ibanez gig bag that fits the Jack casady bass, I paid maybe 79 bucks for it ?

I always call the store and get sales person to touch the bass. Also check the truss rod.

I've also picked one of these up and so far it's all .
No alignment issues, everything is straight that should be, not heavy, and it just sounds amazing. I have new flats on order for it and I am excited to put this into regular rotation.

My son grew up with me playing in bands and recording some records in local bands. He is now a good guitar player and a very song writer. My twin brother also plays. The 3 of us play several gigs a year.

secondbestcody said:

...Darkglass Harmonic Booster...
The character knob is the secret sauce.

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+1

It's a really great clean preamp.

My serial R12 is going in for some maintenance work with a luthier who is also a Youtuber with a decent following. If he posts it for the channel I will share here. I would love a fretless one. I was in Quito a few years ago and tried to contact Olivo through his daughter to try and visit but I didn't get through to anyone sadly.

SwitchGear said:

Made in China if this matters to anyone

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USA made in China

mouthmw said:

It’s a really cool pedal that to me works best when you set it as an ambient style pedal (combinations work best to me when one side is set as a delay, reverb, swell etc). It can do really cool stuff that way but it can also do some standard fare modulation and digital pitch shifting. It can do some wacky CB bleep bloop stuff too.

I ended up selling mine just 2 days before the small batch release - and of course I felt seller’s remorse, plus I didn’t get to try the new resonator modes (firmware update) since the standard resonator mode did nothing for me on bass. So I’m waiting for the new black one now. I’ll say that the MIDI controller for presets at least feels like a must have. I would have kept my last one but I felt like I got all I needed ambient wise with my El Cap v2 but I’m giving it another go now.

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Thanks for that great info. Seller's remorse is real. I've re-bought pedals before too.

I was always intimidated to try the CB stuff, but I recently picked up a Dark World and it handles the bass tones really well. I think I'm gonna have to go back to school to learn MIDI and grab one of these.

Bass Viking said:

I see several basses I want!

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Security has been notified!

OldManNewBass said:

VERY nice...! Now you need one of those Fender Deluxe coil cables, I would go with the black tweed variant...!



Awesome...! Were you using the DI from the ACB50 to the FOH, or...?

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Thanks
Yes I was using the DI out of the amp…

BeeBatty said:

A troll that pops up its head up every four years. Nothing to be concerned with.

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It gets lonely under the bridge so once in a while the great troll magically appears from the depths of his mom’s basement and imparts his wisdom on the online masses. We can choose to ignore them or in my case I tend to outright roast them back into hiding for another fortnight.

I just recently buy this baby! It’s from 1994, absolutelly killer tone, and more comfortable than TRB II!
It produce little noise, especialle when the treble is at zero, or more, and when the neck pickup is soloed…
Should I shield it with copper foil, or do you have any other tricks or solutions for this?

In the Aria club thread recently there's been discussion about pickups.

Damn, tried to file the nut a bit lower and the wall of E slot chipped. It still works but going to get a new one as the nut is also a bit too high and now I don't dare to file. Does anyone know if this fits? I am wondering as it says flat bottom?

Found it: Squier Standard P Bass Special Family

bassbrad said:

I like having the options and sometimes just play with the various combinations too see what makes my ears smile. Some bass, amp and cab combinations are simply pure magic. My favorites are Monotone, Bassman and for more edge the Marshall Major or for mellow B15. I will often use an amp sim for distortion sounds as I find that to be a weak point in that era of Zoom modelling for bass especially.

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I’ve been playing with the distortions and I might be wrong but so far nothing has struck me as that great. I know you have to really fine tune them because the preset is always loud and obnoxious. I’m super picky with drives though. I don’t use them much but when I do I only have a couple that I like and they are separate pedals. The reverbs, modulators, synths etc are really cool though. Some of those could absolutely be thier own pedal and be useful. One small feature I would have loved to see on this is for any setting on a single channel to be able to be copied to another channel. It looks like to copy it makes you have to copy everything in the channel to the other one. I’d love to be able to just pick 1 pedal sim and move it to other channels so I can more easily standardize my channels and use them moreover for swapping amp sims vs rebuilding everything from ground zero. I guess that’s why they give you so many channels to edit so that way you can toggle between everything.

T_Bone_TL said:

A good machine shop would be able to turn the welded area back to the correct shape. Machine shops are pretty widely distributed, "good" may be a bit more of a challenge.

Seems like there must be a design flaw of some sort for this to be a common problem. Or else this part is the "mechanical fuse" to prevent damage to other parts when it's cranked too tightly. Better to use an easily replaced shear pin for that, IMHO.

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Since I'm a decent enough machinist, my first thought was that you could bore out the threaded portion and braze in an entirely new shaft, since there's not much left to work with there. Grabbing onto the threads might require making an adapter with the right inside diameter.

Of course you only get one try.

I bought a couple of basses (Cort B4, G&L L-2000) to potentially have one replace basses including the two Squier Standard PJs, but I keep finding I prefer the Squiers, even though they are cheap. The necks are slim, they sound good. The irony is they were probably made in the Cort factory too.

Decisions, as I must thin the herd. It's getting silly.

walterw said:

that's a guitar pedal power supply

most in-ear units i've seen needed way more power than those typically provide. exactly what in-ears do you have and what's the current draw on each?

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Yep, definitely more power required than ur typical BOSS pedal, but up there with some "tone" pedals.
Most of the IEM units whose specs I checked are in the 300-450 mA range.
The CIOKS C4E can handle that.. as can the C8E and others...
I haven't checked Voodo Labs units..

Thanks.
I'll pitch PirateShip to the seller and see if he can work with it.

basadam said:

Recently I spend a lot of time recording at home with headphones. There was nothing wrong with ChiSonics except 60-cycle hum. On headphones, hum gets to you after a time.

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That would drive me batty, too. Thanks for responding.

Tunnels at the gig we did with them.



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