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I'm back with a '51-ish P from parts (mostly), and a WB finish question

Re: the EM9300, at this point I gotta say I'm not a fan. Even now, 11 days after spraying the final coat it still feels soft and plasticky, and is very susceptible to dings. Level sanding was possible, but it responded erratically to buffing, with some areas developing a decent gloss and others refusing to go beyond satin. I emailed the manufacturer and they said that this product requires "at least 175-200 hours of cure time to develop any hardness". So it may still improve with time.

Tim;

Another option is to do the whole finish as you did with EM 9300, base coats, color coats and clear coats, and then give it a final top coat of 2K automotive poly as the hart top clearcoat. That minimizes the cost and fumes and mess. Or have your friendly neighborhood auto body shop shoot the top clearcoat for you, glossy smooth right out of the booth. Eliminate the whole buffing mess. I've thought about doing that for my basses.
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What picks are you using?

Dunlop Primetone triangles (the big ones).View attachment 7474203
I like this one, but slightly prefer the standard shape in 2.0 mm; I believe 1.5 mm is the thickest Prime Tone triangle. The 2.5 and 3.0 mm picks are just a little too much of a good thing. I've been doing a bit of experimentation over the past few weeks after using Gravity picks for a while (because they came free with pedals from my favourite shop, Pedal Empire in Brisbane, Australia). 2.0 mm seems to be the sweet spot for me; I also like the Ultex Jazz III in this thickness and also the nylon Big Stubby, but the bevelled edge on the Prime Tone seals it. That said, I have some Jazz Tones and an Ultex sharp on their way (all 2.0 mm), so we'll see :).
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RIP Jeff Connolly

You’re John Neidhart?!?!

Dude, *you’re* the reason I play an 8-string bass! When I first heard you tearing up that Ibanez ST-980 on “Ina’s Song” I knew I had to get that sound.

Big fan of Limbo Race, you were one of my favorite Boston bands of all time.
I also mixed FOH for you guys a couple of times at the Inman Square Men’s Bar, through those graffiti-painted Altec Voice Of The Theater speakers.
I wish my memory was as good as yours! And I wish I still had that bass! And here’s a pic of us playing Ina’s Song at Storyville in Kenmore Sq.

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GSS Sumo Clip problems

It could also be that the preamp output can't deliver line level and is just an instrument level output and the preamp itself is clipping because it can't deliver the required drive signal. There's NO information about this in the specs or manual, but they go out of their way to make the distinction that the DI output is line level.

The Sumo's input sensitivity is line level (based on one that I tested for a player a while back) but there's a note that the new units have higher "gain", but since there are no specs on their website... therefore we have to resort to educated guessing.

Side comment... why can't builders include the basic specs for their equipment? It would go a long way to determine how to interface these products and to improve troubleshooting without resorting to guessing. It's hard to help when the most basic of specs are missing.

Ideas to extend top strap button for better balance

I use a brass extender I bought at a hardware store that is actually made for another application, and a double-length screw one diameter larger, along with Hipshot lightweight tuners. Perfect balance.View attachment 5245699
I modified my headstocks on both of my Jaguars and changed the tuners to lighter ones and it corrected the neckdive problem.
IMG_1257.jpeg

What bridge saddle-height adjustment screws?

I called Fender at this number, sat on hold for a lonnnng, lonnnng time, and ended up talking to a real person (which was cool). As it turns out, the part number (and size- #6-32 x 7/16”) provided by the Fender Service Diagram is (allegedly) correct for the CURRENT model Duff Bass which is a MiM. However, mine (also MiM) dates at 12/2016. Apparently, a while back (don't know when for sure), MiM basses used metric hardware and two or three years ago they switched to imperial hardware. The CS rep didn't know the exact size that the saddle-height adjustment screws used to be, however he is looking into it more and claims he will contact me with the "correct" size.

Based on all of this, I measured them, and it came in at about 12mm length and around 3mm diameter. I looked around and ordered some M3X12's. I didn't see anything offering thread pitch options. We'll see how it goes.

Thanks for all the suggestions.
Did you ever solve this, as I have exactly the same problem. 2020 Duff Mckagan signature bass, where I want to swap the bridge height grub screws as they bite into my hand. I've tried 5-40 x 5/16, which is close but the thread is not the same.

Amp head recommendations with low-Z balanced input for tuba/electric bass player?

I think you mean High-Z balanced input?

The Markbass Little Mark Tube 800 is really interesting to me:

* 48V phantom power.
* Both low-Z unbalanced and high-Z balanced inputs with their own gain adjustment.
* A nice sounding tube preamp option that can be instantly A/B tested against a transistor path. (I tested it live and liked the tube sound and feel. It was subtle, not in-your-face, but it was more pleasant to me EQ-wise, and more musical sounding.)
* Markbass was thinking of the needs of upright bassists when making this, so that translates nicely to your use case.
* It's a good amp for "doubling" - bringing e.g. an electric bass and an upright bass to a gig.

View attachment 7550476

I want to hack my upright to output an XLR balanced signal instead of 1/4" unbalanced. Then I'd go straight into an amp like this. Or, I'd continue to go unbalanced from the bass into a Fishman preamp pedal, but then use the balanced XLR output from my pedal to the amp. That'd remove a source of noise I've experienced.

FYI, Markbass still does sell a Little Mark combo or two with the additional balanced input, but not as many extras as this head.
NO, the balanced input is LOW impedance not high.

You need to understand how this stuff works before hacking on anything (IMO).

Point me to the thread regarding Mesa Subway cabs and Neutrik connector issues

It’s not just our cabinets, it’s an industry wide issue with combo jacks and a small percentage of the newer style Neutrik plugs.
I had the problem with a brand new SW115 I ordered. In my case the old blue Neutriks on my cables were so tight I couldn't get them into the cab connectors and the new brown Neuitrik end cables seemed to work...they were tight, but they worked.

Over time all the cables pretty much fit acceptably. It felt/seemed to me like a tolerance/runout interference problem, but there could have been some connector manufacturing debris/flash in the cabinet connectors themselves. In any event it was clearly a supplier part issue.

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