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I have a DVD copy I’m happy to send you for the cost of shipping. DM me and we can sort it out.

I had the same experience with Hyper Luminal. In my non-scientific A/B test with similar settings, it was more noisy than Cali76 (v1). That's why I sold it.

My opinion/theory: This pedal was designed with loud and hard-hitting players in mind because input sensitivity is relatively low. Since my signal was not that hot, I had to crank the compression pretty high to make it react – which raised the signal noise.

Any compressor will highlight signal noise if you are limiting strong signals and boosting soft signals. Noise is also a "soft signal", so the more extreme you go, the worse it gets.

If you like the compressor, you might seek a balance with more mild settings - like a different threshold / compression rate, and more clean blend. Or, you can put a noise gate after that to mask the problem. With or without compression, I like keeping my ISP Deci-Mate on the board because you'll never know what you might encounter in mystery venues (EMI, dirty power, etc).

Abner said:

Well, Row... good news and bad news. The good news: I too have the green wire coming from one of the preamp board connectors and it goes nowhere, so it seems your wiring is correct. The bad news: since it seems your wiring is correct, you have another problem.

After opening mine (for the first time in many years) I did notice that the foam rubber sheets used for insulation and "rattle control" have seriously deteriorated. They are falling apart and I will have to find a replacement material. So after seeing this, it occurs to me, maybe yours has also deteriorated, perhaps to the point that some portions of the EQ board are shorting on something else? One of the pots or switches, or the shield can?

Anyway... I'll see if I can come up with a rudimentary schematic from the PC board. I'm pretty sure it is identical to the EQ found in some Ibanez guitars of the era, such as the AR500, for example.

-Alex

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So glad i came across this thread, ivrecently purchased a 1982 MC924 in polar white in great condition...except the foam in the rear which is now sorted. I too found a green wire not conected to anything and it puzzled me for days as the bass is fully functional in pasive, active and all controls do what theyre supposed to. Thankyou so mutch for this info, cheers

I don’t think that will work. Look at the discussion here. It’s pretty much the same. You will need to test your wiring. For semi-independent tone knobs in your circuit, they will have to come first and connected to pickup negative like a Dan electro. From tone knobs the wires will have to go to the push/pull like on the below thread.

Seriously try it with a test board. You can buy a wiring “breadboard “ for cheap. When you test you may find there’s not much difference in series parallel with your pickups, or one feature isn’t as awesome as you thought it might be. From there you may be able to simplify your wiring.

Finally I went with shampoo for carpets and sofas, a thick brush and some buckets of water. All good, it can now get dirty again.

Just one pedal? You've got space for a level visualiser AND a single-band parametric EQ in there!

The 2013 telecaster body shaped squier with the Duncan designed pup.
The original run of the Mike Dirnt p

alecvbass said:

The SP1 sounds exactly like a classic Fender P bass. The series pickup option is also very good for down tuned stuff - I have some metal songs in BEAD where I prefer the SP1 over the D-Roc just because of the flavour of the tone, being a mean PJ and all.

The SP1 is absolutely killer ergonomics wise - it’s so comfy and so light it’s my go to bass to pickup when going to my rack stand.

The NG2 is the bass for the Dingglass tone if that's your thing - it's definitely brighter and spankier than the other two.

They are all amazing tbh.

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I own a Fender Pbass and an SP1 and I tend to disagree a bit. The SP1 on the P pickup is similar and has that P vibe for sure, but it doesn’t sound exactly like a Fender P to me.
It sounds great though and it’s a mean rock tone with a pick.
Finger-style, I really like the Parallel setting. I never really use the Series mode, too “in your face” and Dingwall-y to me.

Agreed with your comment about ergonomics though. It’s light, balanced and the neck is wonderful.

Lammchop93 said:

Awesome!!!

How do you like it?

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It’s cool. If I had to describe it I would say it’s the literal opposite of a fender bass tone. It’s hot, thick, darker and more compressed . Less punchy and more of a slab of sound. I have a 500k volume and 250k tone which I saw mentioned in various threads on here as the “correct” values but maybe I’ll just swap another 500k in there. One is is for sure, though. The neck on this thing is cooooooked.

Update,

Both of the Sire M6 basses have been returned, and I have received a full refund for both.

I got the new HILS HZB4 (also a 4-string multiscale) last week, and it's amazing. The contours of the body and the very progressive neck are awesome. It goes from something like a narrow C at the 1st fret to almost a slim D after the 12th. That, combined with the Strandberg-looking body, makes it super easy to position the bass more upright and get very comfortable access to the 12th–24th frets while sitting down.

The weight of mine is 7 lbs 4.4 oz, which is very acceptable.

The only downside was the fret ends. Mine are quite sharp and need to be addressed. The nut also had super sharp edges, but those were easily trimmed down with a nail file.

I'm a passive girl and I'm not much for preamps, but it sounds alright in both passive and active mode. It's not exactly a "WOW" sound, though. I prefer the sound of the Nordstrand pickups that some of the Ibanez EHB basses come with.

I will keep this one for sure. I have an appointment with my local guitar tech next week, so the fret ends will be addressed and Luminlays will be installed.

Thanks for all your help and kind comments <3

Peace out!

OldogNewTrick said:

there is also an English version of Boxsim somewhere... haven't needed to download that in a while.

If you do a search, there are a number of DIYers here on TB who have modelled using Boxsim.
There are also recommendations of how to load speakers not in the driver list contained in the package, which means, nearly all drivers of relevance to us.

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On the previously linked website i.e. boxsim(dot)de, both english (V2.0) and german (V2.1) versions of boxsim are available.
When I mentioned "german only though", this was regarding the info and FAQ on the website.

"If you do a search, there are a number of DIYers here on TB who have modelled using Boxsim. There are also recommendations of how to load speakers not in the driver list contained in the package, which means, nearly all drivers of relevance to us." --> Ok, thanks for the tip.

jdaunt said:

Absolutely love mine. Really as said already, the only issue WAS neck dive from the Drop tuner, but i got rid of that rather easily by swapping out the bridge for a Fender High Mass and it helped immensely.

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Any issues with the sound changing after you installed the fender high mass bridge? Tony Franklin himself said he didn’t have one stock because it drastically affected the tone so he asked Fender for the stock bridge.

Thread in question has been removed and the user is no longer a member. Going to close this, but first, some reminders.

Always use PayPal G&S
It it seems to good to be true, it probably is
Link a credit card to paypal, not debit card
Report any ad or PM you feel is suspicious.

Gus often played a later model Fender American Deluxe 5 (lightweight fender tuners) with a Fat Finger on the headstock at live shows not long before his passing.

Here is the beauty that I picked up off of Reverb back in March of this year. I got it for what I consider to be an amazing deal at $1,500. The bass has wear as it should because its over twenty years old. That being said there is not one issue. It fits me like a glove and makes me sound so much better than I really am. The neck is straight and true, electronics sound so good, and I swear this thing is such a solid piece that the notes just ring out for what seems like eternity. I have been trying different strings to see what I like and every single size and style have sounded unique and amazing. If this thing didn't have so much character to the sound I honestly would have kept the Labella Lo-tension flats on it. They play so good but it takes too much off the top for me. I have settled on Ernie Ball cobalt 105-45 set which was tough for me because I have not been a fan of their strings at all in the past. I probably should have prefaced these comments with saying that I played bass for about five years after high school and this January I got back into playing at 40. Going through life changes and music was the only hobby that did anything positive for me. It is such a great emotional outlet that I wish I never quit playing because it certainly stunted my emotional growth! lol Lately I have been playing some other basses and every time I come back to this Katana it just makes everything else seem so cheap and clumsy. Thanks for reading the rant ya'll! New to talkbass so thank you all for the great community here.

Paul New said:

Everything contributes, but split p pickups have an unmistakable character. The 63 is I assume slightly overwound and plays very thick low mids. A lot of people like that sound, and a lot of american series or american standard p basses that I’ve tried seem to tend toward that sound. I personally prefer the higher mid bump I get from GZRs and the like, and feel like they stand out a little better when playing with other instruments. Probably, you could start with any of the pickups mentioned and with good mid eq and some knowledge get the sound in your haid.

There are some youtube videos that compare a few Fender split peas. I’m thinking of one in particular right now.

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The GZR are solid. If you like upper midrange emphasis, an ash bodied Precision is for you. Mine has greater upper mids and slightly deeper lows compared to alder because low-low mids are attenuated slightly, which seems to record in a way that makes my #1 stand out in a dense mix without overpowering anything.

Passinwind said:

It might be worth trying DR Pure Blues, which I find to be pretty mid forward and not too much tenser than TIJFs if you go with the Victor Wooten gauge set.

Tool and the Wal vibe in general in general were not really much of a driver in my open source filter designs, but at a few potential builders’ requests I did do some tunings to go deeper into gritty mid to lower mids, which is not really my jam with fretless bass. Good luck with your builds in any case!

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Took me a while but I finally tried some 45-105 Pure Blues on my neck-thru Kiesel. I just put them on and I’m letting that neck settle overnight before I redo the setup, had an old set of the TI Jazz flats on it previously, but they sound great so far! The E string has something that reminds me of the Jazz flats, something I haven’t been able to find in a roundwound until now, and they're very balanced otherwise.
Looking forward to getting them properly set up, thanks for the recommendation.

Neil Folkard said:

^^Big Mercury Tree fan here. They have slowly switched to microtonal and have been messing around for about 10 years with this form, so long before ADP existed.

Super nice guys (and maybe now girl) and if this whole ADP phenomenon gives their music a boost, then that's a good thing.

And if you like them, I recommend giving Horse Lords a try, also.

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They’re not an easy listen, but I like how they sound like they’re throwing their music down a long stairwell .

msquared said:

Not that I've ever owned any Ashdown gear, but supposedly the higher amount of power going into the ABM900 makes it sound better with a single cab than the ABM500 does. There were a few threads on this a while back.

But if I had an ABM900 I'd just get a pair of four ohm Acme B2s and be done with it.

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What about two 8ohm 1-15 ashdowns would that be ok

Yes, that mid was shrill if not balanced with the woofer. I actually padded mine 2db'ish lower than designed because it is quite "present". But, once balanced to your liking, as a stage cab, every frequency was present from 3ft to 20ft away (which was also a design goal).

walterw said:

i gotta think 400 actual watts of above 800Hz signal blasting into a little mid driver that didn't blow would clear the room like an air horn

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41 Hz said:

I still want to know why OP wanted to know how tall Ray Brown was.

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Size matters?

There is one good demo of the variax where he plays songs that were played to good effect on all of the modeled basses (like roundabout for the rick) and I don’t know that it sounds exactly like any particular bass in a song, but has the unmistakeable flavor of the instruments it is modeled to sound like. Whether it’s perfect or not, it sounds great for songs where the bass is distinctive due to the type of bass. I play in a 80’s tribute, so I’d love to have one, but haven’t seen one for a good price in a long time. This is not a slam, but I played drums at a church where the bass player had one, and when he played the precision setting, it sounded like a precision, but not a particularly great one, and when he played the jazz setting, same thing, etc. But the versatility is absolutely worth it even if that’s the case.

tombowlus said:

Thought that looked like the SW215. Man, what a great cab!

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Yeah I thought the same thing!!! Love mine!!

Bigpig said:

Interesting, and thanks for all replies - reviews on the 15 have been really positive, so . . . thinking . . . thinking . . . thinking . . .

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Cannot go wrong with the Mesa 115. You'll be happy with the sound long after you've forgotten what it cost.

Has your bridge crept forward slightly? That would lower the action and could cause a string to bottom out. Check and see that the bridge feet are sitting correctly on the top.