Now that that's done with, I'm going to go through the materials.
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first off, you're going to need a cigar box, it needs to be at least 8 inches long, 51/2 inches wide, and 2 inches thick - that's pretty close to the dimensions of a soprano ukulele.
I'm going to say that this uke is going to have a good deal of punch!
okay, so maybe that wasn't funny...
the second photo is basically a visual list of most of the materials needed, from left to right:
-some spruce, oak and redwood, for the soundboard as well as bracing
-carpenter's glue, which really doesn't need explanation
-what once made up the back (non-lid side) of the cigar box, this will be used for the fretboard, and maybe a couple of other parts.
-the cigar box, there can't be a a CB uke with out it.
not shown are:
-fretwire, for fretting
-tuners - some use geared tuners, some the metal friction pegs, I use the wooden violin tuning pegs.
-some hardwood, probably birch, for making the neck with.
okay, so moast of this ukulele is going to be out of wood, I try to minimize how much metal goes into the uke, I agree with the quote I've seen floating around here that goes something like "more wood, less steel/ better tone, better feel.". The only non-wood parts that go into my ukes are the fretwire, the strings, and the glue. My personal budget for this uke is $15, that's how much I'm getting to work with - this means that I have to spend as little as possible. Most of my wood is recycled from other things - it's an element of tramp art, as well as a means of getting supplies for as little as possible. The spruce comes from some 2x4 that was used to keep the house up at some point, but has been replaced, the redwood was used in some molding around a door that was just being thrown out, the oak was from a guitar that a friend of mine screwed up on, he couldn't use it, and its proportions were ample for me to get some useable wood out of. The only advice I can give is to find pieces with as straight a grain as possible, as close to quartersawn as possible - especially with oak - and to try to avoid knots - small knots are no problem, but if you're planing your wood the bigger knots are a PAIN. It should be noted, however, that some violins of the amati family have featured knots before, and they are master grade instruments - so it may not affect tone as much as some would think. Furthermore, knots, and interesting grain patterns can add character to the instrument; but be aware that interesting grain patterns and knots can make the wood harder to work.
On to the species of woods suitable for the various parts of the uke:
-the soundboard is what is doing all the resonating, it needs to have a very low mass and high strength, so think of light, springy softwoods: the Spruces, western red cedar, yellow cedar, spanish cedar, and I've even heard of white pine being used too. Some hardwoods can be suitable, like mahogany, redwood (is that a hardwood or a softwood?), and I've been thinking of using alder or poplar for a while now.
the bracing should also be light, other than bridge brace:
-the body lining is just a glue surface, so you can get away with just about anything
-the soundboard bracing is usually spruce, though any softwood, or any light wood will do
-the bridge patch, and the bridge, should be a reasonably strong and hard wood - I've used oak before without any problems, maple, rosewood, and ebony are also popular choices, though the last two are unavailable to me, so I'm using either oak or maple.
the neck needs to be stable, so I avoid non-quartesawn oak, it is also one of the few pieces of wood that I buy:
-the wood needs to be able to stand up to the tension of the strings, which isn't much, about 23 lbs.
-most hardwoods will do: maple, mahogany, african "mahogany", alder, poplar etc... I've even used lacewood.
-some softwoods have been known to work as well, like western red cedar.
The main object here is to find something that is relatively easy to work with, while being aesthetically pleasing. The main woods used for ukes are figured koa and genuine honduran mahogany, which don't come cheap. If you're on a budget like me, I wouldn't worry too much about how "authentic" it is, it's being made out of a cigar box afterall.
okay, now let's get on to the strings, tuners, and fretwire:
Strings are, in my own opinion, one of the most important parts of the instrument. Believe me, the generic black nylon strings are terrible - though I've heard some brands get it right, and the d'addario clears are allright, but if you want the bright, snappy, punchy, percussive sound of a soprano ukulele, get Aquila nylgut strings, you will NOT be disappointed - these are by far the best strings I've used, and the most you should be paying for them is $8.
as for fretwire, it has to be small - I use the stuff at hana lima 'la, though if you can get very small sized, or ukulele/mandolin specific fretwire for cheaper, go for it.
Tuners are all a matter of preference. You can use geared tuners, either the fancy uke-specific ones, or some cheaper, generic ukulele or guitar geared tuners - they are easier to get the hang of, but they tend to have some "play" to them, not to mention adding weight to the headstock of your uke. You also have the choice of using the ukulele/banjo/dulcimer friction pegs - these are metal pegs with adjustable friction - I recommend these, as they have no play, and don't require you to make, or buy, a reamer. I personally use the violin tuning pegs - they are cheap, they don't have any play on them like you would find with geared tuners, you can make your own (though I buy mine), and they are made of wood - "more wood, less steel..." - however, as a downside, they take more work, as well as the reamer, to install - whichever you pick, you should look at the alternatives first.
I'd be more interested in a CB bass build but ukes will do...
