how averse would TB be if I...

[gnarlyopossum]

I'd love to hear a sound clip. Uke it up!

 

[Skitch it!]

Put some sound up dude, let's have a gander, looks like it's got character there

 

[pie_man_25]

Looks cool, well done. How many hours would you estimate it took?

Oh, how did the Linseed come out? Cant quite tell from the pictures. When I use it I cant get it to look like a proper finish, just a bit oily looking, but I probably wasnt leaving it long enough.

if I had to estimate, I'd probably say between 10 and 20 hours total, probably in the 12-15 range at most. A large factor would be if you consider waiting for oil to dry to be "work hours", but I'm not factoring it in.

I have never gotten boiled linseed oil to look like a "proper" finish either, I don't think it's cut out for that. It probably also helps that I only sand to either 100 or 220 grit before and during the finishing process. Right now, my focus is on improvement of fabricating and assembling everything as opposed to making a mirror-esque finish, so I'm content with the results, I have to say I prefer it a little bit over the "mirror like" lacquer finishes, it seems "warmer" to me.

 

[Meatrus]

if I had to estimate, I'd probably say between 10 and 20 hours total, probably in the 12-15 range at most. A large factor would be if you consider waiting for oil to dry to be "work hours", but I'm not factoring it in.

I have never gotten boiled linseed oil to look like a "proper" finish either, I don't think it's cut out for that. It probably also helps that I only sand to either 100 or 220 grit before and during the finishing process. Right now, my focus is on improvement of fabricating and assembling everything as opposed to making a mirror-esque finish, so I'm content with the results, I have to say I prefer it a little bit over the "mirror like" lacquer finishes, it seems "warmer" to me.

Thanks for that. I have seen Linseed on gunstocks which looks excellent. I cant make it look like theirs at all though...trade secrets I guess! You have got what you want out of it though, which is what really matters . Congrats again, looks really good.

 

[90k]

I have a Ukulele paying friend that I am going to get to check out this tread.. Thanks

 

[pie_man_25]

I have a Ukulele paying friend that I am going to get to check out this tread.. Thanks

Thank YOU man.

Also, some news - I just saw the Creepshow last night (among my favourite bands), and I got them to sign my first cigar box uke - it's not much of a player, but it's good for getting signatures on (one signature of note includes Steve Smith of "the Red Green Show"), and Sarah Sin was so interested in the uke that she wants me to make two!

I feel like a champ!

 

[pie_man_25]

I've managed to record a simple, and very low quality, sound clip of this uke, made with the mic. built into my laptop's webcam. I need to get an mp3 coding add-on to audacity in order to get this thing up. Does anybody know where I should look?

 

[pie_man_25]

okay, I've found the MP3 encoder or whatever you want to call it, so here it is. I will say though, my playing and recording doesn't do it justice, I made it with a slimmer neck and string spacing because her hands and fingers are smaller, so my playing is a bit crappy. I also had to record this thing with my laptop's webcam mic. which sucks and I caused it to distort at points.

edit: I'm going to be making a much better one when if I can borrow a mic. from my band's guitarist.

 

[pie_man_25]

I am seriously in a bind right now. I've had the uke completed for about three weeks now, it will be going to it's proper owner in about a week or two, she's in europe at the moment. Anyways, it seems that I placed the brace too far from the bridge. I *thought* that this would increase the flexibility of the soundboard and make it resonate better. I'm not sure about the latter, but it certainly did the former, and it's causing the area in between the bridge and the brace to dip inwards, especially at the bridge. I've immediately removed the strings, now I have two options:

a) remove the old brace, and re-glue it about an inch closer to the bridge or so, or...
b) just make a new brace and install it that inch closer to the bridge.

I'd much rather do "a", because "b" will add unnecessary weight to the soundboard, I'm just completely clueless as to how to remove the original brace - I could try applying heat to it to try to warm up the glue and remove the brace, but I'm not sure if that will work, or if it will cause the glue joint in the soundboard to fail. I've also considered carefully removing it with either a chisel or a dull knife, but I'm not sure how that will go over either, I don't want to have to make a new soundboard, since this one is so nice (at least in comparison to my many failed ones).

it seems like I'll have to go to option "b", however if there IS a way for me to do this without the high risk of screwing up my soundboard, I'd really like to hear it.

 

[MakiSupaStar]

This is awesome. I'm going to create one over the my winter break. I also want to create a banjo out of a cookie tin.

 

[James Mobius]

very nice, but this is talkbass, not talkuke, therefore what you have built is clearly a bass. a little 4 string acoustic piccolo bass.