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Fender Roadworn Questions/Discussion Thread

MrRobert

MrRobert

Supporting Member
Jul 7, 2011
748
838
50
Costa Mesa, CA
#1
I'd like to make this thread a place where people can discuss and ask questions about fender road worn basses, so I'll start with my own musings and questions!
I recently purchased a Fender Roadworn 50s Precision from a fellow TB'er, and I am totally flabbergasted with the exceptional playability and sound of my new bass. I'd played a few before so I knew what to expect, but after living with it for a few weeks now, I can honestly say it is the best playing bass I have ever played. A quick aside: I currently own the rw, a 2011 highway one, an 09 mim standard, and a 95 mim jazz. I have also owned a 76 P, but that was in the mid 90s and I honestly don't remember precise details about it except that it was the best bass I had ever played..
Ok, so my questions about the roadworn P are:
- What is it about this bass that affects playability? Is it the relicing process? If so, how exactly does the relicing affect playability?
- Is it the vintage fret size that makes it easier for me to play well? My highway one plays very well, but I have to pay extra attention to avoid string noise than I do on my roadworn.
- I've been told that the regular 50s classic mim is 'pretty much the same bass without the relicing' but the few that I've played didn't feel anything like the roadworn. If this is true, would it mean the relic process is responsible for the way the bass plays? And if so, could I relic a 50s classic and make it feel the same?

I have many more questions, but I thought I'd start off with these. All discussion/debate is welcome! Please don't post a reply telling me I should do a search... I have and did not find the answers to these questions... Thanks!
 
#3
sorry, I don't have any answers to your questions, but I agree with your observations. I ignored them until my guitarist friend told me how surprisingly great the road worn Strats were. After playing a few, a RW P is at the top of my GAS list. I hate the cheesy relicing though (except any aspect that might contribute to the awesomeness, like the neck for example), and when I get one, I will be sorely tempted to strip and paint it.
 
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#4
I find the same things you are finding. I have the 50s P, and a Highway one Jazz. I think the vintage frets reduce buzz, and can allow for lower string heights due to there reduced height. So that affects the playability.

Also the roadworns have rolled edges on the fret board so that also make them feel really nice to play, and finally i have heard that they select the driest lightest woods for the bodies to keep them really light. So that would also make them feel very nice and light, and lastly the light nitro finish isnt found on most fenders, which helps the resonance of the bass and helps the vibrations shine through so you can 'feel' them a bit more.

All of these things are not limited to the roadworn, however they aren't found on any other fender bass except for the american vintage series, which many will say is the best fender you can get.

Personally i think the RW are like a cheaper version of the AVRI line, obviously lower quality but the with the same features, which helps give it a very similar feel.
 
#7
I played onea few days ago used at GC for 700$ , it was hard not to buy. My GF played it to but we both were turned off by the relic job , it didnt look natural. I still think i may get one and repaint it, i like the broke in neck but not the body wear.


I played a roadworn strat and didnt care for it
 
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#8
" i have heard that they select the driest lightest woods for the bodies to keep them really light. "

... the bodies are thinner than the bodies on the MIM Standard, the Am Special, and the Am Standard (at least on the RW Jazz) ... but as far as being light, I have inquired as to several (J's) that were all well over the 9# mark ... which is not what I consider light ... also I have came across two that have had fret issues, one was so bad it needed to be completely refretted, and the other needed ends set and re-dressed soon after it was purchased ... just something to be aware of for those looking (both Jazz's BTW) ...
 
#10
Well if you don't like the relic, just de-relic it.

Costs .99$ and 5 minutes.

John

DSC00153.jpg


DSC00148.jpg
 
#11
jfh2424 said:
Well if you don't like the relic, just de-relic it.

Costs .99$ and 5 minutes.

John

DSC00153.jpg


DSC00148.jpg
Click to expand...

?

I looked at one once seriously. It felt and sounded great. Nice and light. I was thinking it would maybe be nice to have a nice "Beater" bass I didn't need to worry about so much. ( I take real good care of my gear :D )
What made me walk away was how "gummy" everything felt. I wipe down after playing and I realized this would probably drive me crazy. Lol :).

I'm assuming you polished it all up ?:cool:
 
#12
tjh said:
" i have heard that they select the driest lightest woods for the bodies to keep them really light. "

... the bodies are thinner than the bodies on the MIM Standard, the Am Special, and the Am Standard (at least on the RW Jazz) ... but as far as being light, I have inquired as to several (J's) that were all well over the 9# mark ... which is not what I consider light ... also I have came across two that have had fret issues, one was so bad it needed to be completely refretted, and the other needed ends set and re-dressed soon after it was purchased ... just something to be aware of for those looking (both Jazz's BTW) ...
Click to expand...

To answer the OP, I don't believe the relicing has anything to do with the way these sound and play. But I do think that wood selection and thin nitro finish have a lot to do with it.

As the above post notes, not all rws are created equal. I've run into some I didn't like. Some are heavy as noted above. Haven't seen the fret issue myself, but it would not surprise me. As always, you have to take the time to find a good one. The good ones can be really great.

/rick
 
#13
- What is it about this bass that affects playability? Is it the relicing process? If so, how exactly does the relicing affect playability?

The playability of the Roadworn models is fantastic, its a balance of tone, sustain, and lightweight body. I personally don't think that its playability has anything to do with the relic'ing effect. But if you accidently scratch it you won't feel guilty like most would on any other bass. So don't hesitate to drag it across the floor once or twice for good measure. ;)

- Is it the vintage fret size that makes it easier for me to play well? My highway one plays very well, but I have to pay extra attention to avoid string noise than I do on my roadworn.

I hear (and read) that a lot of players compare the Highway One model to the Roadworn. The neck of the Roadworn feels (and this may sound odd) but comfortable in that it feels broken in but have a "new" neck look. Although I do wish that they would've produced the Roadworn without the coating the back of the necks (that's just personal pref).

- I've been told that the regular 50s classic mim is 'pretty much the same bass without the relicing' but the few that I've played didn't feel anything like the roadworn. If this is true, would it mean the relic process is responsible for the way the bass plays? And if so, could I relic a 50s classic and make it feel the same?

Sorry, I can't help with this question as I have yet to play the 50s classic mim.

Happy hunting...
 
#14
I personally don't mind the relic paintjob, as it doesn't look fake to me at all. I would prefer the exact same bass with the same features minus the relic look, but I doubt that will happen. I think the playability of these basses come mostly from the neck. The rolled fingerboard and vintage frets probably being the main factors? There is definitely something different about the feel of these roadworns though. Has anybody owned or played both the av 57 and the roadworn? How similar or different are they?
 
#15
I have a 2008 Fiesta Red Road Worn Jazz. I got it for $675 used. It has become my main instrument for bar/coffee house/rock gigs—though I still prefer my P/J for serious recording.

I believe that the thinness of the bodies that an earlier poster mentioned is partly due to the significantly thinner nitro (~1/32 inch) finish on the RW. The poly on current MIM classic bass bodies can easily be 1/8th inch thick. That could account for a significant part of the difference in thickness when comparing RW to other Fender Jazzes.

Perhaps Fender is also cutting slabs thinner to save money? The owner of Wilicutt Guitars in Lexington, KY suggested that the wood has been baked. No matter what it is, my Road Worn is the best Jazz I have had. I have not changed anything except the strings and the setup parameters. :cool:
 
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#17
ghostdog93 said:
My sentiments exactly.
Click to expand...

I totally agree. Marketing is what it is... Terrible marketing doesn't change the fact that these are great instruments, although what it should be doing is making people aware of that fact. But I know I'm a outlier, and I think their marketing is aimed much more at people who are casual or inexperienced players. As with anything else, the more you know about whatever you are into, the less marketing tends to have an effect on you.
 
#20
This seems like a reasonable place to raise this question.
What brand, type and gauge strings are on your RW Jazz and why? Oh heck, let's include RW P-basses, too!

Tell us what kinds/styles of music you are performing with said stringed thingie!

My RW Jazz usually has DR Lo-riders (45-105) on it and is used for Reggae, Rock, and a Bob Dylan Tribute Band. :cool:
However, it has had Fender, Sadowsky, and Pedulla strings on it, all of which were good, and quite different from each other. The Lo-riders, once well-broken in give an old school tone, though are more mid-present than old Fender flats or LaBellas.
 

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