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Gotoh 201 vs. 203

I'm thinking of a replacement bridge for my newly ordered Jazz Bass, and I'm comparing these two:
Gotoh 201
BB-0356-010.jpg

I'm guessing that both the saddles and the backplate on this one are bigger and thicker than the stock, which would impart a more boomy, more sustaining, almost Badass II-like sound.

Gotoh 203
203B-4C.jpg

This seems to me to be more of a vintage replacement model, just a bit thicker metal. I'm kind of leaning toward this one.

Thoughts, anyone? Sorry, I just discovered this thread duplicates this other thread somewhat. Oh, well.
 
I don't think you can go too far wrong with either, and the difference between the two would be subtle. Yeah, the 201 is quite heavy, though I'm not sure how heavy in comparison to a BA (I have one of each sitting on my workbench at home, I should weigh them). I really like the 201 as an upgrade...I think when you take price into account, it's better than the Badass bridges (since it's roughly half price, and close to if not quite the same weight).
 
The 201 and 203 are very nice bridges. I have used both the 201 and 203. I prefer the 203's. It has the vintage look, a thicker plate and lighter than the 201.

I replace the 203 saddles with the Fender Deluxe Bass Bridge saddles. I Have the 203 on my Reggie Hamilton and my custom CIJ 75 RI. The 201 and 203 are very nice bridges.


201 from experience...great bridge. Replace a bada$$1 with one of these...
 
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The 201 and 203 are very nice bridges. I have used both the 201 and 203. I prefer the 203's. It has the vintage look, a thicker plate and lighter than the 201.

I replace the 203 saddles with the Fender Deluxe Bass Bridge saddles. I Have the 203 on my Reggie Hamilton and my custom CIJ 75 RI. The 201 and 203 are very nice bridges.
Why replace the saddles? Are the Deluxe ones brass or something?

Also, when you drill new holes for the 203, how does one do that safely and precisely? Do you put the bridge in place and use an ordinary hand drill to create a pilot hole, the just insert the screw and turn it, or is there more to it than that if you have a hard polyurethane finish?
 
I think it's worth choosing a different bridge if I suspect I will have to shim the neck for the 201.

Dudes and dolls, nobody has yet addressed my question of drilling. Does one simply haul out an electric drill, attach the bridge via the existing holes, and drill pilot holes in the two additional holes through the hard finish (in the case of the 203)? It sounds a little dangerous to me. What kind of drill bit do you use? How do you keep from scratching the finish, or having the drill bit slip? I really don't to screw this up.

:help:
 
On another thread somewhere in the depths of Talk Bass, someone had mentioned that you can avoid finish chipping by taping the area off (with masking tape) and doing an initial drill-through with the drill in reverse. I'm not sure why, but I've tried it twice and it works beautifully.

Since you'll need to drill for the 2 front screws of the Gotoh bridge, you should:
  1. tape off the area where you will be drilling with masking tape,
  2. attach the bridge with the 5 rear screws,
  3. carefully mark where the 2 new screws should go,
  4. remove the bridge,
  5. leave the tape on and use a small bit with the drill set to REVERSE to safely drill through the finish (don't press too hard!),
  6. put the drill back to its regular direction and drill the pilot holes into the body,
  7. CAREFULLY remove the tape, and
  8. attach the bridge.

I've done this a couple of times, and it has worked beautifully. Believe it or not, I did to my Squire VM fretless this morning (with a Gotoh 203, no less). No chipping, pitting, etc. One of the most important things is not to force anything and to take your time.

Of course, YMMV.

Oh - 1 more thing to remember: be carefull not to monkey around with the ground wire under the bridge. Just leave it where it's at, and it should be fine.
 
Bench notes:

Fender MIM Bent Bar:
Bridge = 86 grams + (5) screws = 92g
Saddle + (2) adjustment screws = 7g

Gotoh 203:
Bridge = 146g + (7) screws = 154g
Saddle + (2) adjustment screws = 8g

Gotoh 201:
Bridge = 167g + (5) screws = 172g
Saddle + (2) adjustment screws = 12g


Note: all weights measured on a digital scale, accurate to nearest whole gram.

-------------------------------------------------------

My opinions after trying all three bridges on a Fender MIM P bass;

First an physics explanation on tone:
Smaller mass vibrates at a faster frequency. Larger mass vibrates at a slower frequency. Bass range frequencies are slow. Vibrations closer to unity compound on each other sounding stronger, louder, deeper. A fast vibrating mass against a slow vibrating mass causes interference waves/energy loss.

The Fender bent-bar style is simply too light to emphasize bass frequency ranges. The tone I best describe as 'airy'. Harmonics breathe while deep lows fail to reach full strength.

Next installed Gotoh 203. Drilled the holes with the bridge already screwed in place along the back. Select a drill bit a few sizes too small and ensure the drill is held perfectly verticle. Use a bubble level on the back of the drill. Use an air can to blow dust out of the cracks, especially underneath the bridge base plate. Tighten screws in a criss-cross pattern.

The Gotoh 203 sounds and feels secure. That airy breath is filled in. Sustain is significantly improved. Bigger strings have 'wider' attack.

Then installed Gotoh 201. The two additional screws drilled for the 203 were filled with toothpicks, yes toothpicks :smug:. Cut the point off, insert it into screw hole, cut to length, even a tad shorter, remove toothpick from hole, wet with wood glue, remove excess glue, push into hole. Use a flat sided tool to carefully push it down (do not force it down). Use needle nose plier tips to force the tip of the toothpick into the wood. If the toothpick was cut long carefully file level with a medium-fine file, protect the area with masking tape.

Gotoh 201 vs. Gotoh 203. Honestly- not much tone difference :eek::scowl::eek: The heft of the 201 does seem to give a slightly 'wider & deeper' attack (Punch!) on the low strings. Playability is the big factor. 201 has larger saddles, plus each saddle has channel routes (203 uses thinner saddles, and only outer saddles have channels). You can play much more aggressively without any shifting whatsoever. Another factor is instrument balance. More weight on the tail end causes the headstock to rise while playing standing (as you should be!).

THE BOTTOM LINE: BALANCE & PUNCH & PLAYABILITY
Gotoh 201 is a keeper. Dropping headstocks and horizontal guitar makes for poor instrument control. A bridge with the mass to counter the weight of four heavy tuners improves overall balance. As a avid slap player the stone-solid heft with extra punch gives more power with less strain. The entire bass feels like it's working with my style rather than against me. I do not use a pick, but imagine pick players will really appreciate this enhancement as well.