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Mike Dirnt Refinish Project

I’ve been wanting to take a shot at refinishing a bass for some time. I even have a few basses in the cue for just such an adventure, but a Mike Dirnt MIM popped up on CL that was the perfect candidate. This bass needed some love. A bent tuner, a couple stripped-out screws, a missing strap button, and some fret buzz just to name a few of the problems.

I spent a few days working through the issues to make sure the bass would be worth the effort. Then I took it out and played it on a regular gig. The pups have a touch more bite than a MIM P bass, and the neck is very thick. I really like the body lines and that tele head stock is so cool.

The factory Poly finish was missing on several edges all the way down to the wood, but the wood was intact. The clincher was this bass was black. I have two other black Fenders, so I really don’t need a third.

Next: Stripping the poly finish....

(for the "no pictures, no bass" crowd)
 

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After a bit of research, it came down to three choices for get the old poly finish off.
Sanding, chemicals or heat.
Sanding would be insane. I could see how thick the finish was where the paint was chipped off. Stack three business cards together for an idea of what I was seeing.
I’ve done the chemical thing on furniture and even a ’69 Camaro. I really didn’t want all that toxic mess and then try to get the sludge out of the wood grain when the paint is gone. Not to mention poly is a tough finish and can withstand regular strippers.
I decided to start with heat. Others have posted pictures of burnt wood, so I wanted to control the temp to affect the poly but not scorch the wood or affect the glue holding the body parts together. A heat gun came to mind, but it delivers it’s payload in 4” circle. I just happen to be a screen printer and have what is called a flash unit. It’s a 15” x 16” infrared heating unit that puts out a steady temp over a larger area. You control the heat by distance and time under the unit.

What I discovered was the poly got rubbery at about 200º F and released it’s grip on the wood. As it cooled, it would become brittle and re-grip the body.

So the sequence was warm up the body to a little over 200º, then get a putty knife between the poly and the wood. With just a little careful prying, the poly would come off in large chunks. I could get a few pieces off before the body cooled, then 20 seconds or so under the flash would give me a little more working time.
 

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