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Geddy Lee Truss Rod mod (leave the neck on!)

kazuhank

Supporting Member
Nov 12, 2002
2,779
7,894
Portland, OR
It has been discussed a bit in the "basses" forum, and a few of my posts have prompted some PMs about how to replace the stock truss rod nut with a spoke wheel nut (like on the music man basses) so that you can adjust the truss rod without removing the neck. So here is how I completed the mod step-by-step:

The spoke wheel mod is fairly simple if you are comfortable routing the bass pickguard and body. Step by step, you need to: 1) buy the spoke wheel (here is a link to the one that I bought: Invalid Link Removed it's only $5.16). 2) remove the neck from the body by backing out the four neck bolts (no damage to the bass if you are careful). 3) Unscrew the stock truss rod nut by loosening it until it comes off. 4) Thread the new truss nut onto the stock screw (they are the same size) you may want to add 1-2 small washers between the bolt and the truss rod nut as the spoke wheel nut is a hair shorter than the stock nut. 5) With the spoke wheel on the neck I held the neck back in the body pocket and traced around the wheel with a permanent marker. 6) I then routed out a small notch where the neck meets the body to accomodate the wheel using my marker lines as a template (this adds just enough room so that the wheel will rotate freely). 7) Then I used the sharpie marker to fill in the new body route (so that it doesn't "show" as much--you could use paint for a better look. 8) I then took a piece of paper and made a "rubbing of the new neck pocket and route that I used as a template to cut a notch in the pickguard (this time I worked inside the lines so that the hole was smaller than the body route)--I used a dremmel tool fairly easily for this step. Now it is just a matter of screwing the neck and the pickguard back on the body and adjusting the bass back to playing shape. If you are not comfortable doing this all yourself, buy the nut and take it into a repair shop for professional routing.

This is an easy mod to make that will allow you to adjust the truss as needed without having to take the neck on and off. And other than the body and pickguard route, you can return the bass to "stock" with the original nut and pickguard (I bought a new black pickguard that I routed just in case I ever wanted to go back to "stock"). I hope that that helps.
 
I just routed a truss rod access. I didn't need to but a new spokewheel.

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Thanks. I don't even want to go that far, though.

I'm going to produce my own custom made metric truss rod wheels. All I need to do is route a tiny pocket behind the neck and it fits right in. It makes adjustments so much easier and faster.
I never take the neck off to adjust the TR. Just loosen the strings, remove the 2 neck screws closest to the front of the neck, and loosen the 2 rear screws. Tilt the neck back and adjust away.
 
I have big balls, that's how!

Seriously, the 10/32 that Stew Mac sold threaded on the nut. I read another post here on TB which is where I got the idea.

Best of luck!
That's extremely strange if it's an original MIJ neck as they come with metric threads. :confused:

My truss wheels came out great. Ended up making them out of 316 stainless for increased strength. All that's left to do is drill the 8 evenly spaced holes on the adjustment end. Pics to follow soon.
 
Different strokes for different folks.

I prefer to not even have to remove my pickguard. I want to be able to adjust it very quickly. Less tinkering, more playing. :)

I never took my neck off when I had a Geddy...

I actually just removed the PG and found I was able to adjust the TR by using a flat head screwdiver with enough clearance to turn the nut, no problem.
 
Here's my 316 stainless metric truss rod wheel in all of its non-corrosive glory. Made a few of these so I guess I'll have to buy more MIJ basses!

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Lublin, I realize this is an oldie, but do you recall the size of the threads on the adjustment wheels you made? I'd like to replace the truss rod nut on my CIJ Geddy Lee, and the 10-32 and 8-32 do not work with my bass. Thanks.
 
Awesome!

How did you made them??

Since he posted that in 2014, he may not answer. But I can answer for him. I frequently make up spoke wheel style truss rod nuts of various designs for Luthier clients. I don't make that specific design/model, but it wouldn't be hard for anyone with a small machine shop. You don't need big CNC machines or anything fancy. Just a small collet lathe and a milling machine, and a spin index fixture.

It's made from 1/2" dia 304 stainless bar stock. Turn the outside shank and drill the center hole in the lathe. Part off at the head end. Tap the center hole by hand or in the lathe. Pop it into a collet in the spin index fixture, set up in the mill. Drill the 8 radial holes, rotating the indexer. Back in the lathe to clean up the face and OD of the head.

I am not quoting you or looking for the work!

But, to give you an idea of the cost, if a small shop like me were to make just one of these for you, it would be about $30-$50. Ten of them at once would be maybe $9 each. If you went to a large CNC machine shop and ordered a few hundred, they would be around $2-$3 each.
 
Since he posted that in 2014, he may not answer. But I can answer for him. I frequently make up spoke wheel style truss rod nuts of various designs for Luthier clients. I don't make that specific design/model, but it wouldn't be hard for anyone with a small machine shop. You don't need big CNC machines or anything fancy. Just a small collet lathe and a milling machine, and a spin index fixture.

It's made from 1/2" dia 304 stainless bar stock. Turn the outside shank and drill the center hole in the lathe. Part off at the head end. Tap the center hole by hand or in the lathe. Pop it into a collet in the spin index fixture, set up in the mill. Drill the 8 radial holes, rotating the indexer. Back in the lathe to clean up the face and OD of the head.

I am not quoting you or looking for the work!

But, to give you an idea of the cost, if a small shop like me were to make just one of these for you, it would be about $30-$50. Ten of them at once would be maybe $9 each. If you went to a large CNC machine shop and ordered a few hundred, they would be around $2-$3 each.

Thank you!

I will look for a local lathe machinist, but it will be expensive for sure.

In my case it's a pain in the ass to disassemble the pickguard every time I need to adjust the truss rod with the spoon handle I modded for this job. Besides, the neck is very thin and not very weather resistant.

I love the look of my MIJ TL62B, but the heel nut is impractical and I don't understand why it sounds so bright, like a strat, even after replacing the stock saddles for brass ones and the stock pickups for Lindy Fralin's.

I don't care about the resale value, because it is very low already
 
Turn the outside shank and drill the center hole in the lathe. Part off at the head end. Tap the center hole by hand or in the lathe. Pop it into a collet in the spin index fixture, set up in the mill. Drill the 8 radial holes, rotating the indexer.
drill those holes all the way through, right?

i hate those spoke wheels where the holes are blind and too short, your adjusting tool bottoms out before you get any proper leverage unless it's the exact perfect size.
 
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In my case it's a pain in the ass to disassemble the pickguard every time I need to adjust the truss rod with the spoon handle I modded for this job.
if you don't mind visually altering the instrument so you can avoid even taking off the little pickguard, it's much easier and less destructive to just rout a little notch in the body wood as well as the pickguard itself and use an offset screwdriver, paint can key or even the nifty little stewmac tool to make the tweak.

Invalid Link Removed
fender american standard basses have used this setup for decades now except with a 3/16" hex truss rod nut, works great.
 
When I make spoke wheel nuts, I normally set up the blank in a collet in the spin index fixture. Then I drill the holes in the eight positions, all around, drilling down to the center. The holes all meet in the center so, yes, the pin/wrench will pass all the way down through two opposing holes. You definitely want that.

I drill the holes #29, which is slightly larger than 1/8". That's so an 1/8" pin or rod will easily slide in and out without jamming.