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fEarful™ 12/6 & 15/6 enclosure designs - FREE! (Part II)

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#4
I posted this seperately, but got no answers.

I am very interested in greenboy's fEarful 15/6 (2 way .. no tweet) design, but sadly, have zero skills with the wood, glue and tools thing. I wonder if anyone can point me to a builder in the SF Bay Area who could undertake this build.

Thanks
 
#5
I just got my speakers for the 12/6 today and the baltic birch is in at the lumber yard so I can pick it up tomorrow. Unfortunately the crossover is on back order but I've been told I should have it by the end of next week. I'll be starting my build either tomorrow or Sunday and I'll try to post some pictures. I'll also be pestering some of you for pointers on wiring and so forth.
 
#6
It looks like I am going to defer my build for a bit...

The cost of the drivers and building a decent crossover, put these out of my range for now. I looked at GBs design every which way until Sunday, and in the end I don't think that any corners deserve cutting in the name of saving a buck.

On a good note, I did score a Peavey 412 to get me by. It is about 3x heavier than a 15/6, but that is the price you pay for being temporarily gear-broke!

I could have bi-amped and forgone the crossover costs, but after adding my lead sled to the mix (with EQ and rack), I felt that adding a 70lb head defeated the purpose of the uber mini cab!

Thanks for sharing all of the info... and special kudos to GB for giving the amount of time that he has to the community!

Ox.
 
#8
GB, I noticed you did amend the 12/6 plans for a shorter shelf. The original being 10 3/4", the newer version being 8 1/4" or 10." So are you recommending 10" for a low B or A vs. 8 1/4 for standard E and 10 3/4 for F#?
 
#9
I have read thru the previous thread but just want to make sure i'm correct. I can take the plans for a 12/6 and build it with just the 12 with the shelf tuned to a low E. Would you exclude the mid chamber or just not fill it?

Thanks,

Kevin
 
#10
I just took a couple of days earlier this week and built a 15/6 with the 3015LF/6ND410/xd-125 and peavey ecs-3x (not sure of exact model numbers right now). I need to tame the wild reaction I'm getting from the tweeter right now, but am looking forward to testing it more closely soon. For the folks that have been wondering about weight my build (with add-ons) made with .625 (5/8-") baltic birch weighs 63.2 lbs. right now without handles and grill.
 
#11
Cutouts for handles, jack plate and drivers done. Glued in some foam acoustic dampening material. Front fitted (not glued in yet).

MX
 

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#12
Cutouts for handles, jack plate and drivers done. Glued in some foam acoustic dampening material. Front fitted (not glued in yet
Click to expand...

Lookin' good!

There's something that I've been wondering about for a couple of weeks. When it's time to glue in the front baffle, how do you get the glue where it's supposed to be without smearing it all over the place? I'd guess you'd run a bead around the inside of the cab before installing the baffle, but if the baffle fits snugly, then all the glue would get pushed out of the joint when you fit the baffle in. Maybe stick the baffle in first and then run glue beads around both the front and back?

Me confused.
 
#14
dug dog said:
There's something that I've been wondering about for a couple of weeks. When it's time to glue in the front baffle, how do you get the glue where it's supposed to be without smearing it all over the place? I'd guess you'd run a bead around the inside of the cab before installing the baffle, but if the baffle fits snugly, then all the glue would get pushed out of the joint when you fit the baffle in. Maybe stick the baffle in first and then run glue beads around both the front and back?
Click to expand...

It seems to be standard operating procedure to build these with butt joints and add the baffle last but to me it seems wrong. I'm inclined to use dado joints, build the box around the baffle, and drop in the back panel last. It's more work, requires a router and a carefully clamped straight edge but it seems better to me. One issue with this approach is that the plywood is actually 15/32" (or the metric approximation?) and a 1/2" router bit will leave a gap ( hopefully consistent to one side of the board) that needs filling.
 
#16
dug dog said:
Lookin' good!

There's something that I've been wondering about for a couple of weeks. When it's time to glue in the front baffle, how do you get the glue where it's supposed to be without smearing it all over the place? I'd guess you'd run a bead around the inside of the cab before installing the baffle, but if the baffle fits snugly, then all the glue would get pushed out of the joint when you fit the baffle in. Maybe stick the baffle in first and then run glue beads around both the front and back?

Me confused.
Click to expand...

I've been trying to decide how to do that too. I'll probably add a couple blocks behind it at the bottom where there's no other support, then run a bead of glue all the way around and where it hits the bracing. I'll use a couple finish nails where they won't be visible and then flip it over and reach in through the cutouts to clean up any dripping glue and squeeze more glue into the seams.

I'm also trying to decide if I want to run a small strip all the way around the front similar to that shown in the plans. The plans call it a grill standoff, but I'm doing individual speaker grills, so I don't need it as a standoff. I may do it as additional baffle bracing.

MX
 
#18
Swift713 said:
It seems to be standard operating procedure to build these with butt joints and add the baffle last but to me it seems wrong. I'm inclined to use dado joints, build the box around the baffle, and drop in the back panel last. It's more work, requires a router and a carefully clamped straight edge but it seems better to me. One issue with this approach is that the plywood is actually 15/32" (or the metric approximation?) and a 1/2" router bit will leave a gap ( hopefully consistent to one side of the board) that needs filling.
Click to expand...

The glue I used is really strong. As someone else pointed out, with the glues nowdays, I think the 1st ply would rip off before the glue would give.

This for me is my first build, so I'm considering it a learning experience. I may build again to improve on things after I see how this one works out and have used it a while. Maybe the next one will have dados or mitered corners or whatever. The box itself is relatively cheap, and I'll be able to move all the hardware, electronics and drivers to a new box if necessary.

MX
 
#19
Here it is assembled, front and back. Still need to do some cleanup, put finish on the wood and do the corners, but I had to put it together and try it out.
 

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#20
And here next to my Spector 5-string and on top of an Epifani PS112 for size comparison.

Sounds great so far. Seems to handle the low B very well. I've only played it outside in front of the garage, but sounding fine so far. I want to do a side-by-side comparison with the Epifani tonight.

MX
 

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