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Who has a Warmoth Jazz neck?

SamTheButcher

SamTheButcher

Yis, actually.
Sep 25, 2004
382
55
Charlotte NC
#1
I'm thinking about getting a Warmoth Jazz neck for a MIM Fender body that I'm purchasing. Maple/rosewood w/blocks and binding shown in their showcase. I have a few questions for those who have one. I did the search thingy, and found alot of interesting things, like the warmoth is a little chunkier than a Fender neck (which to me is good), and a little heaver (doesn't matter). I also looked at USCG necks, but I like the '70's bound and blocked look, and USCG doesn't offer that.
One thing that I'm concerned with is the truss rod adjustment at the heel instead of the headstock. With the fingerboard overhang this will make it impossible to ajust the neck without removing it. Now I'm thinking that because of Warmoths dual steel stiffening rods in the neck, adjustments would need to be made less often, maybe only when changing string guages, seasonal changes etc.. You owners find that this is the case? Is this a "pain in the azz" factor that outweighs the positives of the neck?

Stories, I need stories and experiences from you Warmoth jazz neck owners out there.

Also did you finish it yourself? I'm leaning towards doing it myself, the guy I talked to at Warmoth recommeded Link Removed (who I already researched) for clear nitrocellulous and neck amber tint. Good step by step instructions on their site.
Any tips/warnings about do it yourself finishing?

Thanks in advance, people.
 

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#2
does the MIM body have the little cut out for the neck adjustment, if it does, then you'll be OK. If not, then you'll have to put the neck on and try to figure out how much adjusting you'll need, then pull it off and adjust it.
Warmoth necks are nice, can be a bit weighty, I find that I need minimal adjustments every now and then, more so due to weather than strings.
When refinishing, work with small amounts, quickly, yet thoroughly and neatly. a little today, a little tomorrow, etc.
Try to keep from getting too much on the frets, as it can be a real pain to properly remove. Good luck.
 
#3
Thanks for the response, I recognize you from some of the posts I read while doing the search on Warmoth necks.
Filakovsky said:
does the MIM body have the little cut out for the neck adjustment, if it does, then you'll be OK.
Click to expand...
It doesn't, but I don't think it would be too much problem to rout one in there, it'll be under the pickguard so it won't matter (I'll notch the guard too.) I just wonder with the fingerboard on the Warmoth extending past the maple heel of the neck if I'll be able to get to the adjustment screw??
Filakovsky said:
When refinishing, work with small amounts, quickly, yet thoroughly and neatly. a little today, a little tomorrow, etc.
Try to keep from getting too much on the frets, as it can be a real pain to properly remove. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's pretty much what Guitar reranch's site stresses, small coats, a little at a time. They recommend two initial coats of clear followed by a coat of amber every 30 min untill desired tint is reached, then more clear the next day. I don't want it too dark, may skip the amber alltogether. Never done a neck before, but have extensive model experience and am no stranger to a spray can or small spray gun. The fingerboard is rosewood, so I wasn't planning on spraying it, I'll tape it off then oil it when I'm done.
Also, it says "drilled for BML", I plan on using some MIM tuners I picked up, would that be the right size? The guy at Warmoth wasn't sure.
 
#4
SamTheButcher said:
I just wonder with the fingerboard on the Warmoth extending past the maple heel of the neck if I'll be able to get to the adjustment screw??
Click to expand...
You should be OK.
SamTheButcher said:
Also, it says "drilled for BML", I plan on using some MIM tuners I picked up, would that be the right size? The guy at Warmoth wasn't sure.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure either, but it wouldn't hurt to try them. You can always pick up some schallers after. Ask Nino Valenti, he'll know.
 
#5
SamTheButcher said:
Never done a neck before, but have extensive model experience and am no stranger to a spray can or small spray gun.
Click to expand...

Best advice I can give for a can job is to pre-heat your cans in warm water before each session. By warming the can you increase the viscosity of the mixture and it atomizes much better. It also thins out the liquid so your coats are nearly, automatically light. If you've been around models for awhile, you probably know about this but if you didn't...

And I don't worry at all about spraying over frets and I use a PPG 3 part, catalyzed, acrylic polyurethane as my clearcoat - much tougher than the lacquer you intend to use. I don't have any problem at all removing the coating on the frets. As a matter of fact, if you'll polish them to a high shine before spraying, the dried stuff will come off even easier.
 
#6
Hambone said:
Best advice I can give for a can job is to pre-heat your cans in warm water before each session. By warming the can you increase the viscosity of the mixture and it atomizes much better. It also thins out the liquid so your coats are nearly, automatically light. If you've been around models for awhile, you probably know about this but if you didn't...
Click to expand...
Thanks, Hambone.
Yeah, I know that one and it does makes a world of difference. I know models and bass necks are apples and oranges to work with (I'm sure some may have snickered at the original reference), but there is some common ground.

As far as spraying the frets, maybe I need to clarify. The neck I'm getting is just like the one below in the photo, Maple neck/rosewood fretboard with pearl blocks and binding. Wasn't going to spray the fretboard, I'm planing to tape the fretboard and binding off during the spraying process, then lemon oil the fretboard after the finishing is done to the rest of the neck. Is there a different procedure that I should use for the fretboard?
Also, Hambone, I see from other posts that you recommend threaded inserts for your neck/ body attachments. Nice idea, especially since I may have to remove the neck for any adjustments (although I think what Filakovsky says will work).Where can I get the inserts and screws that match? Do you sell them?
 

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#7
SamTheButcher said:
Thanks, Hambone.
Yeah, I know that one and it does makes a world of difference. I know models and bass necks are apples and oranges to work with (I'm sure some may have snickered at the original reference), but there is some common ground.

As far as spraying the frets, maybe I need to clarify. The neck I'm getting is just like the one below in the photo, Maple neck/rosewood fretboard with pearl blocks and binding. Wasn't going to spray the fretboard, I'm planing to tape the fretboard and binding off during the spraying process, then lemon oil the fretboard after the finishing is done to the rest of the neck. Is there a different procedure that I should use for the fretboard?
Also, Hambone, I see from other posts that you recommend threaded inserts for your neck/ body attachments. Nice idea, especially since I may have to remove the neck for any adjustments (although I think what Filakovsky says will work).Where can I get the inserts and screws that match? Do you sell them?
Click to expand...


Back when I was younger, I was a gonzo model builder so I'm pretty familiar with the hobby. But the neck and a model aren't all that different - your analogy worked for me.

If you want a nice glossy finish on the rosewood, you could use several coats of TruOil. That would make a harder finish on top. But for simply conditioning the board, I use teak oil designed for harder woods like teak and rosewood. It will penetrate well and it's better for the neck in the long run than lemony concoctions.

PM me about the inserts. ;)
 
#8
Glossy finish on the rosewood.......hmmm.....sounds good.

Where does one find this Truoil? I googled it and among other things it's used as a gun stock varnish. A company named Birchwood Casey makes it. Dick's sporting goods has it.(umm, I don't have any camo to wear to Dicks to get it, boy am I ever gonna stick out). :eyebrow:
Another site calls it polymerized linseed oil. That it?

PM coming.
 
#9
SamTheButcher said:
One thing that I'm concerned with is the truss rod adjustment at the heel instead of the headstock. With the fingerboard overhang this will make it impossible to ajust the neck without removing it.
Click to expand...

If you don't need the extra frets (I certainly don't) Warmoth will build your neck without the overhang. I ordered a jazz neck with an LP headstock, and the truss rod adjustment is at the headstock where it's supposed to be.
 

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#10
Bass said:
If you don't need the extra frets (I certainly don't) Warmoth will build your neck without the overhang. I ordered a jazz neck with an LP headstock, and the truss rod adjustment is at the headstock where it's supposed to be.
Click to expand...
The neck I'm getting is one already made in their showcase. '70's style with pearl blocks. :cool: They told me the blocked ones are made in limited runs, they usually don't make those individually. I got a thing for those, it's a trade off, but one I'm willing to make. Pretty sure routing under the pickguard at the heel will take care of it.
 
#11
Bass said:
If you don't need the extra frets (I certainly don't) Warmoth will build your neck without the overhang. I ordered a jazz neck with an LP headstock, and the truss rod adjustment is at the headstock where it's supposed to be.
Click to expand...
Why is the truss rod adjustment supposed to be at the headstock? :)
 
#12
SamTheButcher said:
Glossy finish on the rosewood.......hmmm.....sounds good.

Where does one find this Truoil? I googled it and among other things it's used as a gun stock varnish. A company named Birchwood Casey makes it. Dick's sporting goods has it.(umm, I don't have any camo to wear to Dicks to get it, boy am I ever gonna stick out). :eyebrow:
Another site calls it polymerized linseed oil. That it?

PM coming.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the sporting goods stores will carry it but I buy it at Wal-Mart in their sporting goods department. They usually have it year round and it's cheaper than anywhere else.

And you won't have to wear camouflage...You will have to be a capitalist though. :D
 
#13
Here's my thoughts on all this:

I don't find the Warmoth neck profile to be "chunky" at all, I find it to be pretty on par with the American necks and just a tad slimmer than the mexican ones.

Assuming the neck is going to go on a jazz body, or even if its not (doesn't matter), then you should be able to get away with just routing a channel in the body, maybe not even the pick guard, just to cover things up. That neck is the standard Warmoth neck, so things should be just fine. In case you need it, the length of the notch on my Warmoth body (a fine Padouk jazz body with nothing on it but a good sanding job), is 3/4" and rounded at the end.

I don't particularly know that a truss nut is supposed to be at the head, I know Fender doesn't do it that way, but I think Gibson did for their EB basses, which had the paddle heads, in which case the nut is in the right place. All I can tell you is that the adjustment is nice and easy and you shouldn't have to touch it very often once you get it where you need it with whatever strings you've got.

And yeah, Schaller BML tuners are pretty much standard size as far as the peg hole is concerned. One thing that I learned the hard way is that the bushings should require only finger pressure to seat properly. If they're hard to get in there, take some sandpaper and take a tiny bit off, then try again.

They're a great thing, I love mine.
 
#14
I have a Warmoth J neck on a Warmoth J body. There is a slot in the body to reach the truss screw. Not a problem making adjustments. It is a strong beefy neck, thicker than my G&L J necks, but still comfortable. Not sure I dig the overhang... in fact, I think mine has a bit of ski-ramp effect going on. Luthier says it's a high spot that needs shaving.
 
#15
Captain_joe6 said:
Assuming the neck is going to go on a jazz body, or even if its not (doesn't matter), then you should be able to get away with just routing a channel in the body, maybe not even the pick guard, just to cover things up. That neck is the standard Warmoth neck, so things should be just fine. In case you need it, the length of the notch on my Warmoth body (a fine Padouk jazz body with nothing on it but a good sanding job), is 3/4" and rounded at the end.
Click to expand...
Yeah Cap'n, I looked on Warmoth's site and on some of thier jazz bodies they have the rout we're talking about.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
That looks about like what you're describing.
That's pretty much how I plan on doing it. Got any pics of your bass?
 
#17
Bass2x said:
Not sure if you can see it on this photo, but the slot is there leading down under the fingerboard overhang.
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Yeah, I see it. Sweet lookin' bass. :cool:

What about fret size, anybody? I ordered the neck today with what they call a 6150 fret wire, a true "jumbo". Looks about middle of the pack as far as height, the guy at Warmoth thought that this is most likely what is on my current MIM jazz. Said it would take 3 to 4 days for it to go to production(fretting and nut), so I could change my mind in that time. Any thoughts?
 
#18
As far as I know about frets, 6150 fret wire is your basic "medium jumbo" fret wire. Its got enough width to feel comfortable, and is tall enough to get definition, while not so tall that a hard press will throw the note out of pitch (a big problem with a Kramer P-bass that I have, although the frets are super, super worn, but its a phenolic board so a refret is a spendy ordeal). I've seen 6100 wire loose, and yeah, its crazy big. 6150 seems to be "the standard" for off-the-shelf builders.

And for anyone whose curious, here's the lowdown on my bass (which I named "Skinless") that I built supplied almost entirely through Warmoth:

Neck is Goncalo Alves with Brazillian Rosewood lined fretless fingerboard extended out to 24 frets (extention is long enough to make the truss adjustment route useless).

Body is African Padouk with standard jazz pickup route and routed for Hipshot 4 string trem bridge (I know, it seems pointless on a fretless, but I like to tweak harmonics). Filled with Duncan Antiquity II pickups run to stacked knobs (a volume and a tone for each pickup) and strung with TI Jazz Flats, high action. I'll post pictures in the Basses forum tomorrow.

Point is, I love the guys at Warmoth because they've been easy to talk to, have answered all my questions (this being my first build), and supplied me with a fantastic, one-of-a-kind product. Next up for me is a 51 P-bass clone from them.
 
#19
Captain_joe6 said:
As far as I know about frets, 6150 fret wire is your basic "medium jumbo" fret wire. Its got enough width to feel comfortable, and is tall enough to get definition, while not so tall that a hard press will throw the note out of pitch (a big problem with a Kramer P-bass that I have, although the frets are super, super worn, but its a phenolic board so a refret is a spendy ordeal). I've seen 6100 wire loose, and yeah, its crazy big. 6150 seems to be "the standard" for off-the-shelf builders.
Click to expand...
Great. That's what I thought and exactly what I'm looking for.

Captain_joe6 said:
Point is, I love the guys at Warmoth because they've been easy to talk to, have answered all my questions (this being my first build), and supplied me with a fantastic, one-of-a-kind product. Next up for me is a 51 P-bass clone from them.
Click to expand...
Yeah, they've been pretty good to me too so far. Should have the neck in about 10-12 days.
51 P?! I have some "down the road" gas for one of those, ash natural body, black pickguard and chrome covers. Sweet. Never seen one in a lefty though, although a Fender bass book I have has a pic of a lefty '55 sunburst w/ a white pickguard. Drooled for days.
 
#20
Hambone said:
Yeah, the sporting goods stores will carry it but I buy it at Wal-Mart in their sporting goods department. They usually have it year round and it's cheaper than anywhere else.

And you won't have to wear camouflage...You will have to be a capitalist though. :D
Click to expand...

Damn. Dicks w/o camo.....or Wal mart.
I'm equally screwed.

Have to send one of the kids in...
 

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