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pics!
- Thread starter jordan_frerichs
- Start date
some figurings to small to use (sadly). 5 or so pieces like this biggest figure spread was 15"*5". these are all on peices separate from the one i work with
going to sand joint and hopfully glue tommorow. got the wood for a steal. the already reduced school price for the total board was $45, but the teacher let it slide for $28. whole thing
haven't made a template yet. cut it into 2 two foot long pieces. tomorrow i will trim of a little sap wood from the sides. power sand it, hand sand it than joint the sides. saving the gluing for friday. doing it after school so i have access to all remaining clamps. then coming in eraly on monday to take off the clamps. i worked it out with the teachers so that i didn't rob any classes of their clamps.
it is a fender/ibanez cross. fender jazz leg contour, upper horn, and ibanez atk arm contour and lower horn. i have a little paper cutout of the shape. think i will blow that up to size and trace it on that special boardf you guys say to use. what is it called again??
Sanding before jointing? If you want to get your board square
the usual procedure is to run a face on the jointer until flat, then an
edge with the newly-flat face against the fence so you get a good
square corner, second face through a planer, then the second edge
on a tablesaw. If you sand first the sanded side is going to be all
random and won't make a good reference for the first edge joint.
--six
No, only one face on the jointer.
What you're starting with is a board where you don't know what is
square, what is parallel, or what. The jointer gives you 90-degree
angles, the planer gives you parallel surfaces, and the tablesaw gives you
parallel edges. By using them in the right order, you get a perfectly
squared-up board. Wrong order and you get something wrong.
Fortunately, if you've got these three tools, there's a standard procedure
to follow.
Here's a youtube video showing the standard procedure. They've reversed
steps 2 and three from what I wrote above, but that's OK; those two
can be done in either order:
What you're starting with is a board where you don't know what is
square, what is parallel, or what. The jointer gives you 90-degree
angles, the planer gives you parallel surfaces, and the tablesaw gives you
parallel edges. By using them in the right order, you get a perfectly
squared-up board. Wrong order and you get something wrong.
Fortunately, if you've got these three tools, there's a standard procedure
to follow.
Here's a youtube video showing the standard procedure. They've reversed
steps 2 and three from what I wrote above, but that's OK; those two
can be done in either order:
Oooh, should we turn this into a safety thread?
While I agree that that guy's thumb is in the wrong place in the
tablesaw operation, I don't think it's for the reason Jon mentions.
The thing to always keep running through your head is, "if this tool
slips, where will it go?". Basically, you never, ever, ever want to
push your flesh towards something sharp, or push something sharp
directly towards your flesh. So the thumb action there is wrong.
But it's not wrong because splinter/grab/suck-into-the-blade thing. The
blade is pushing the board toward the operator. It's not going to suck
him in. The one-in-a-million thing is if his hand slips off the board and
he falls forward.
The big blade-sucking danger is reaching around behind the blade to pull something
through. Plenty of thumbless guys will agree.
The two other safety problems I saw in the video were, 1) The woman at the chopsaw
should have rolled up her sleeves to help revent getting-yanked-in-itis, and 2) the guy
should take off his ring; lots of bad things can happen with rings.
Others?
While I agree that that guy's thumb is in the wrong place in the
tablesaw operation, I don't think it's for the reason Jon mentions.
The thing to always keep running through your head is, "if this tool
slips, where will it go?". Basically, you never, ever, ever want to
push your flesh towards something sharp, or push something sharp
directly towards your flesh. So the thumb action there is wrong.
But it's not wrong because splinter/grab/suck-into-the-blade thing. The
blade is pushing the board toward the operator. It's not going to suck
him in. The one-in-a-million thing is if his hand slips off the board and
he falls forward.
The big blade-sucking danger is reaching around behind the blade to pull something
through. Plenty of thumbless guys will agree.
The two other safety problems I saw in the video were, 1) The woman at the chopsaw
should have rolled up her sleeves to help revent getting-yanked-in-itis, and 2) the guy
should take off his ring; lots of bad things can happen with rings.
Others?
checked the piece was to big to joint the faces, so i just picked the more even fronts and did it from those. so far, so good. gluing it tomorrow, and making a template this weekend
finally, a picture update. body slab. the body still needs smoothing, but is going good. the neck pocket area is overly large and will be shaped down and styled into a fender- bolt on joint
here is the fret board blank. i really like the flaming on it. it is thick enough to be sawed in half and get 2 nice boards out of it
scottbass
Bass lines like a big, funky giant
True story: When I was in 7th grade our shop teacher cut off two of his fingers in front of the entire class when he was demonstrating the wrong way to use a table saw.
I know: off topic. But I couldn't resist. Kids just basically walked around for weeks with dropped jaws over that one.
I know: off topic. But I couldn't resist. Kids just basically walked around for weeks with dropped jaws over that one.
CRAP. i cut the FB blank short. i wanted a 24 fret, but it is only long enough for a 20 fret. i could either do a 20 fret with the low grade flamed maple, or use regular maple for a 24 fret. i herd the amount of frets affects sound, more frets, more of a metaly sound, is this true?
