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pics!

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by jordan_frerichs, Mar 4, 2008.


  1. jordan_frerichs

    jordan_frerichs

    Jan 20, 2008
    Nebraska
    k, got some work done today. the board of walnut un worked. rotting at the end of the board
     
  2. jordan_frerichs

    jordan_frerichs

    Jan 20, 2008
    Nebraska
    some figurings to small to use (sadly). 5 or so pieces like this biggest figure spread was 15"*5". these are all on peices separate from the one i work with
     
  3. jordan_frerichs

    jordan_frerichs

    Jan 20, 2008
    Nebraska
    sawing, and planing. planed to 1 and 3/4 inch
     
  4. jordan_frerichs

    jordan_frerichs

    Jan 20, 2008
    Nebraska
    going to sand joint and hopfully glue tommorow. got the wood for a steal. the already reduced school price for the total board was $45, but the teacher let it slide for $28. whole thing
     
  5. Worshiper

    Worshiper

    Aug 13, 2004
    New York
    cool...got any pictures of the design?
     
  6. jordan_frerichs

    jordan_frerichs

    Jan 20, 2008
    Nebraska
    haven't made a template yet. cut it into 2 two foot long pieces. tomorrow i will trim of a little sap wood from the sides. power sand it, hand sand it than joint the sides. saving the gluing for friday. doing it after school so i have access to all remaining clamps. then coming in eraly on monday to take off the clamps. i worked it out with the teachers so that i didn't rob any classes of their clamps.
     
  7. jordan_frerichs

    jordan_frerichs

    Jan 20, 2008
    Nebraska
    it is a fender/ibanez cross. fender jazz leg contour, upper horn, and ibanez atk arm contour and lower horn. i have a little paper cutout of the shape. think i will blow that up to size and trace it on that special boardf you guys say to use. what is it called again??
     
  8. 6Hz

    6Hz

    Jul 12, 2007
    Berkeley, CA
    Sanding before jointing? If you want to get your board square
    the usual procedure is to run a face on the jointer until flat, then an
    edge with the newly-flat face against the fence so you get a good
    square corner, second face through a planer, then the second edge
    on a tablesaw. If you sand first the sanded side is going to be all
    random and won't make a good reference for the first edge joint.

    --six
     
  9. jordan_frerichs

    jordan_frerichs

    Jan 20, 2008
    Nebraska
    so put the front and back on the jointer?
     
  10. 6Hz

    6Hz

    Jul 12, 2007
    Berkeley, CA
    No, only one face on the jointer.

    What you're starting with is a board where you don't know what is
    square, what is parallel, or what. The jointer gives you 90-degree
    angles, the planer gives you parallel surfaces, and the tablesaw gives you
    parallel edges. By using them in the right order, you get a perfectly
    squared-up board. Wrong order and you get something wrong.
    Fortunately, if you've got these three tools, there's a standard procedure
    to follow.

    Here's a youtube video showing the standard procedure. They've reversed
    steps 2 and three from what I wrote above, but that's OK; those two
    can be done in either order:
     
  11. Jonsbasses

    Jonsbasses

    Oct 21, 2006
    Fort Worth, TX
    Builder: Jon's Basses
    Eep. I always keep my fingers out of the path of the saw (table saw in this instance). Just in case the tablesaw grabs or kicks and my thumb catches a splinter and gets yanked in with the board. About a one in a million chance, but that's how these freak accidents happen!
     
  12. 6Hz

    6Hz

    Jul 12, 2007
    Berkeley, CA
    Oooh, should we turn this into a safety thread?

    While I agree that that guy's thumb is in the wrong place in the
    tablesaw operation, I don't think it's for the reason Jon mentions.

    The thing to always keep running through your head is, "if this tool
    slips, where will it go?". Basically, you never, ever, ever want to
    push your flesh towards something sharp, or push something sharp
    directly towards your flesh. So the thumb action there is wrong.

    But it's not wrong because splinter/grab/suck-into-the-blade thing. The
    blade is pushing the board toward the operator. It's not going to suck
    him in. The one-in-a-million thing is if his hand slips off the board and
    he falls forward.

    The big blade-sucking danger is reaching around behind the blade to pull something
    through. Plenty of thumbless guys will agree.

    The two other safety problems I saw in the video were, 1) The woman at the chopsaw
    should have rolled up her sleeves to help revent getting-yanked-in-itis, and 2) the guy
    should take off his ring; lots of bad things can happen with rings.

    Others?
     
  13. jordan_frerichs

    jordan_frerichs

    Jan 20, 2008
    Nebraska
    checked the piece was to big to joint the faces, so i just picked the more even fronts and did it from those. so far, so good. gluing it tomorrow, and making a template this weekend
     
  14. jordan_frerichs

    jordan_frerichs

    Jan 20, 2008
    Nebraska
    finally, a picture update. body slab. the body still needs smoothing, but is going good. the neck pocket area is overly large and will be shaped down and styled into a fender- bolt on joint
     
  15. jordan_frerichs

    jordan_frerichs

    Jan 20, 2008
    Nebraska
    here is the fret board blank. i really like the flaming on it. it is thick enough to be sawed in half and get 2 nice boards out of it
     
  16. ur kidding me..
     
  17. scottbass

    scottbass Bass lines like a big, funky giant

    Jul 13, 2004
    Southern MN
    True story: When I was in 7th grade our shop teacher cut off two of his fingers in front of the entire class when he was demonstrating the wrong way to use a table saw.

    I know: off topic. But I couldn't resist. Kids just basically walked around for weeks with dropped jaws over that one.
     
  18. jordan_frerichs

    jordan_frerichs

    Jan 20, 2008
    Nebraska
    hahaha.
     
  19. jordan_frerichs

    jordan_frerichs

    Jan 20, 2008
    Nebraska
    CRAP. i cut the FB blank short. i wanted a 24 fret, but it is only long enough for a 20 fret. i could either do a 20 fret with the low grade flamed maple, or use regular maple for a 24 fret. i herd the amount of frets affects sound, more frets, more of a metaly sound, is this true?
     
  20. Bryan316

    Bryan316 Banned

    Dec 20, 2006
    Detroit
    Only if your strings contact those frets. Sounds like old wive's tales again.
     

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