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Passive basses and the volume control, an explanation (science warning)

Ok, since I haven't seen anything around here that explains these things in one spot, I decided to start a thread explaining the effects of the volume control in passive instruments. There are plenty of threads with people asking about what different volume pots (250k vs 500k) or different settings of the volume control will do to your tone. In active instruments the answer is simple: The volume control lowers the volume. But in passive basses this is only one effect of the volume control.

I hope everyone who reads this has a basic understanding of resistors, capacitors and inductances and knows how to read a bode-plot. If not, I would recommend checking these things out on the web (try wikipedia and google ;) ).

Ok first off, let's start with a basic model of a single-coil pickup. The values used should be about right for a typical jazz-bass pu. L1 represents the inductance of the PU windings, R1 the resistance of the windings and C1 the capacitance of the windings, forming a 2nd order lowpass:
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The frequency response of this setup is what we would get if we were to connect a pickup directly (no volume or tone controls) with a very short cable (maybe 10cm) to an amplifier with a high input impedance (>1 Megaohm) like a tube amp:
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As you can see, there is a very tall and narrow resonant peak at ~7kHz and the response is everything but flat. This tone will probably be very thin and brittle sounding and not particularly natural, but that is a very subjective matter.

Wait... you don't want to use a 10cm (4") cable?!? Well, as you may know, every cable also has a capacitance ~150pF per meter isn't uncommon for a guitar cable. So let's add the capacitance of a 3m (10') cable to our model:
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As you can see in the following plot, the resonant peak is shifted down to ~3.4kHz, right into the range where human hearing is best, so the tone would have a lot of presence, but it may sound quite irritating:
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Didn't I say I was going to explain the effects of the volume control?? Yes, I did, so let's add it! At full volume, a volume pot is nothing more than a resistor to ground. For comparison I added a 250k and a 500k volume control (resp.):
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As you can see in the frequency plot, the lower resistance reduces the resonant peak more than the higher resistance. This effect is called damping. Due to the taller peak, the 500k pot will result in more "character", but that also means a less natural sound, as you will be hearing your pickup instead of your strings, bass and fingers! (This does not have to be a bad thing. You might actually like it!)

Now, what happens if we turn down the volume control a little? Obviously, the output will be quieter, but that is not all that happens! Let's compare a 250k pot at full volume, and reduced to half output (-6dB. Due to the log/audio law of most volume pots, this setting will not be at the center of the pot's movement.)
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As expected, the output was lowered by 6dB, but something else happened as well. The resonant peak was flattened out, so far that it's almost gone, and the cutoff frequency (-3dB point) was shifted to higher frequencies. The result: less unnatural (again, not necessarily bad!) highs but a higher frequencies are allowed to pass through. This explains why a few people (me included) like to set the volume controls on their jazz bass to ~7.

Last I have a plot of what happens if the volume control is turned down very low (the volume loss was equalized, out2 has the pot set at 125k/125k as before, and out3 has the pot set to a very low setting of 249k/1k):
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Look at the red curve. At very low volumes, the resonant peak actually increases again and is shifted to higher frequencies! The large series resistance (R5) of the volume pot "hides" the cable capacitance, so we get a new peak closer to the original one with a very short cable. This is one of the reasons your bass starts to sound thin when you turn down the volume knob on your instrument. (The main reason is psychoacoustics, which I will not go into here)
 
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You, sir, are awesome.

This explains a good, basic, single-pickup, single-volume setup. Now, since a few of of us here have wild, wild ideas about pickup configurations and their basic setups, would it be alright if I either PMed or posted here some of the combinations just to see how the whole cricuit would balance out?
 
Nice work, great to see this put so clearly. Here's a question for you: I presume it is impossible to directly measure the response of a pickup because how would you get a test signal into it? Can one get round this by measuring certain parameters and then building an equivalent circuit model of it?

Alex
 
You, sir, are awesome.
Thanks, but I am just a humble IMT (Information and media technology, mix of CS and EE) student and average BG and DB player...

This explains a good, basic, single-pickup, single-volume setup. Now, since a few of of us here have wild, wild ideas about pickup configurations and their basic setups, would it be alright if I either PMed or posted here some of the combinations just to see how the whole cricuit would balance out?

Well, I could do that, but I can tell you right now that the electrical part of the pickups and wiring is just one element of the sound. Other elements are the pickup position and shape (see here: http://www.till.com/articles/PickupResponse/index.html ) and nonlinear magnetic effects, and of course woods, technique and all that jazz.

Talking about jazz, I'm working on a simulation of a complete, standard jazz-bass wiring. Which, I promise you, still offers quite a few interesting effects (how about a bass boost using just a tone control and volume control? :D )
 
Nice work, great to see this put so clearly. Here's a question for you: I presume it is impossible to directly measure the response of a pickup because how would you get a test signal into it? Can one get round this by measuring certain parameters and then building an equivalent circuit model of it?

Alex

Measuring the electrical response is actually possible, you just need another coil to induce a current in the pickup. For more info look here: http://buildyourguitar.com/resources/lemme/

Or you can measure the resistance, inductance and capacitance using one opamp and plug those into the schematics I posted. For the measurements, check this site: Invalid Link Removed (site is in german, sorry about that) This only requires one opamp and no coils.
 
Thanks, but I am just a humble IMT (Information and media technology, mix of CS and EE) student and average BG and DB player...

Wow. I would've doubled my statement if I'd known that - I'm a student in the same branch and I still haven't put an effort into anything like what you did here.

Well, I could do that, but I can tell you right now that the electrical part of the pickups and wiring is just one element of the sound. Other elements are the pickup position and shape (see here: http://www.till.com/articles/PickupResponse/index.html ) and nonlinear magnetic effects, and of course woods, technique and all that jazz.

Talking about jazz, I'm working on a simulation of a complete, standard jazz-bass wiring. Which, I promise you, still offers quite a few interesting effects (how about a bass boost using just a tone control and volume control? :D )

You're right, pickup position, shape, winding, magnets etc. would wreak havoc upon it. But hey, I can't wait for the jazz-bass simulator.
 
Wow. I would've doubled my statement if I'd known that - I'm a student in the same branch and I still haven't put an effort into anything like what you did here.
Well I see myself more as an EE, so this isn't particularly complicated stuff to me.

You're right, pickup position, shape, winding, magnets etc. would wreak havoc upon it. But hey, I can't wait for the jazz-bass simulator.
Almost done :)
 
Ok, here goes. The new model includes two pickups (the phase differences between the two are ignored, since I have no way of modelling these correctly), and a typical jazz bass setup with two 250k volume controls and a 250k tone pot with a 47nF (0.047 µF).

Both volumes at maximum, tone rolled off in one case:
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As you can see, the tone pot does exactly what you'd expect. The highs are rolled off. But now, with volume turned down a bit on both pickups:
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Interesting, right? Although the highs are rolled off a little, the tone behaves more like a bass boost! So if your bass sounds thin, roll down the volume a little, and roll down the tone a bit and there you have your extra bass!
 
Bad news... I noticed that I didn't use "correct" jazz-bass wiring for my simulations. In a jazz bass (according to [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] ), the hot leads of the pickups are connected to the wipers of the volume pots. In my schematics I connected the wipers to the output.

So, what's the big difference? My wiring uses the pots as voltage dividers in the way you would normally use for attenuating a signal, and the fender version presents a variable load to the pickups instead! What does this mean?

Across most of the range of the fender volume controls they will affect only tone (cutting highs) and not volume! Only over the very last part of the movement the resp. pickup is quickly muted. So, why do they do this even though it is a terrible volume control?

If you look at my schematics, the voltage divider consists of one resistor in series with the pickup, followed by a resistor to ground. If you turn the volume of one pickup all the way down, the output is shorted to ground! So in this case, although over most of the range the volume control will behave much better than the fender volume control, over the last part of it's movement, the volume of one pickup will mute both pickups!

The next logical step would be to compare both variants, and maybe provide a third solution which actually acts as a passive mixer and neither mutes both pickups nor acts primarily as a tone control (but is more sensitive to cable capacitance and amplifier input impedance... with passive electronics there is always a tradeoff!) So stay tuned!

Maybe not so bad news after all :)

PS: For the single-pickup case, it would be best to use a voltage divider as in my first post.