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my "new" stingray

M

Mr. BassmanPT

Aug 15, 2009
955
5
Europe
#1
bought a "used" stingray that apart slight nail scratches in the pickguard from slapping, it is just brand new. no dents, no dust inside the screws heads, no dust in the screw joints, nothing. and believe me that the pictures are not making it justice because in the pictures i see dust that is "not there" :D

from the look of it, it was left inside its case for like 99% of the time, just like the seller told me when i went met him yesterday.:hyper:

the bass is almost dust free too, the dust it has now was me who caused itcsince yesterday :ninja:

i am playing it non stop since i got it home and i am liking the feel of it. in the end i have made a really good deal, 1250 euros for a bass that has a recommended price point of about 2400 euros over here.:hiding:

soundwise, it has a really bright sound, i believe mainly because of the maple neck of course but also because of the roundwound rotosound strings. i will string it with thomastik infeld flats, it will be killer.:bassist:

the neck feel is perfect, the frets are NEW. i still do not believe that i have made this deal. sometimes i find myself thinking that the bass has zero miles, it feels like the guy (really nice guy, we talked for some time and he was really friendly) sold me after like 2 days slapping it! it is like i went to a store and bought it brand new.

the serial number is E45907, what does this mean? what are the features of that batch?

one thing that i haven't discussed with thew seller where the tools. i do not have them. if i want to change the neck relief, how can i do it? what will i need?

here are the pictures:

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#5
thisSNsucks said:
Looks Mint!

As far as adjusting the neck, the spokewheel adjuster makes it easy. No special tool needed, just something that will fit into one of the spokewheel holes.

I usually use a small allen key.
Click to expand...

missed your post. we were probably replying at the same time.

one question then. and lets see if i can explain the situation. lol.

if i lay down the bass, strings up, with the neck in the opposite direction of where i stand and the body against me, if i turn the wheel to the left, the neck will bow down? or up?

putting it the other way, if i want to give a higher relief (more curvature to the neck), what is the direction i should turn?

also, how many turns shall i give maximum?
 
#10
If you go to the database is show that your bass is most likely a 2005. If you look around there on the database it shows that features and colors changed from bass to bass.

As far as changing the relief, I would recommend that you take it to a shop and have the bass setup with the strings that you want to use on it. In the meantime, as you look directly at the adjuster from the bridge you will want to turn it counter-clockwise. NO MORE than a 1/4 turn, then let the neck move so it might take awhile for it to move. It's not always instant so be patient.

Do a search for Gary Willis' website or Jerzy Drozd basses website. They explain trussrod adjustments very well.
 
#11
cmaranhao said:
missed your post. we were probably replying at the same time.

one question then. and lets see if i can explain the situation. lol.

if i lay down the bass, strings up, with the neck in the opposite direction of where i stand and the body against me, if i turn the wheel to the left, the neck will bow down? or up?

putting it the other way, if i want to give a higher relief (more curvature to the neck), what is the direction i should turn?

also, how many turns shall i give maximum?
Click to expand...


Ok if the bass is laying down in front of you and the neck is the furthest thing away from you, Counterclockwise will loosen the truss rod (more relief) and Clockwise will tighten the rod (less releif)

I usually adjust mine in playing position, so towards the floor will tighten, and towards the ceiling will loosen.

I always give a quarter turn at a time, and I ALWAYS loosen it a bit first. Ya never know who the last person was to touch the rod and if they maxed it out and you try to tighten it more, snap goes the truss rod.

hope that helps!
 
#14
thanks for the comments and explanations guys!

i will adjust the truss rod when i string it with thomastik infeld flats.. for the time being it is perfect.

about my serial number.. in the database i have this:

E45075...5 Jan 2005.
E45536...DOB 3 Mar 2005. No compensated nut. No other info.
E46419...22 Mar 2005. Honeyburst.

mine is E45907, what does it mean? it was made in March 2005 right? anything else i might know with the serial?
 
#15
cmaranhao said:
thanks for the comments and explanations guys!

i will adjust the truss rod when i string it with thomastik infeld flats.. for the time being it is perfect.

about my serial number.. in the database i have this:

E45075...5 Jan 2005.
E45536...DOB 3 Mar 2005. No compensated nut. No other info.
E46419...22 Mar 2005. Honeyburst.

mine is E45907, what does it mean? it was made in March 2005 right? anything else i might know with the serial?
Click to expand...

The flats will have a lot less tension so the neck will move.

That's sounds like you've got it close on the build date. The numbers do seem to jump around a bit. The serial number never seemed to indicate anything other than a bass was built with a unique number.
 

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