Recent content by BassUrges

The reach has more to do with where the upper horn is than the scale. My home built 36" 5er has the upper horn at the 8th fret and is perfectly comfortable.

I decided to try to get that end bearing done and really, I can't remember the last time something machined so beautifully and problem free. But naturally I broke a tap so the tuner bracket has to soak in alum for the weekend.

It's a lot of work, but I like to make a full 3D model of anything I'm building. That makes it easy to rotate, view from different angles, and so on, but more importantly, makes modification and addition easy. Tuners you wanted to use discontinued? Well, check if the available ones fit and make...

The hole-moving project is unequivocally partially successful: the worms and gears mesh properly. The final step will be moving the B-side end bearing, which can't get the square plug in the same way. Unfortunately this will probably have to wait for few more months given how life goes around...

My "move holes" project finally got underway with the long weekend. The plan is to mill out a squarish opening in the tuner bodies and insert plugs, which has the advantage of making it much easier to move holes in the future. After that new holes can be drilled and reamed for the same bronze...

Thanks I had fun with it! The rest of the bass is NSFTB but people at gigs like it.

I have dots right at each note and I agree it's too many. At a minimum I should have made 3/5/7/9 larger than the others. I also have markers on the board that help a bit.

I had 2 of the "Asahi" K1000 bodies 35 years ago, and I still have them. I broke one out for the eclipse in 2024.

There has been a lot of chipping away on this project, including getting the worms into the bearings, finding them too tight, ordering an oversize reamer, carefully cleaning everything again and today, final assembly and break in. But actually, not. The worms and gears don't mesh. Careful...

I love real shellac (from flakes in alcohol) for figured wood. It really makes it pop. You can go over it with WB poly for protection.

Thankfully my latest build is a reverse-P, which you can't even get off the stand unless you are 100% bass player.

I think we all appreciate the ethics of the seller being straightforward about this being a parts bass and not having an original vintage body. Some unscrupulous dealers take advantage of inexperienced buyers.

My local Ace Hardware has them down to 4-40. To insert I put a regular nut on a screw, thread it partway down into the insert, then screw the nut down into contact with the insert. I then use a wrench on the nut to screw it into the wood while I keep it vertical with the extra length of the...

Post-pour degassing is basically going to be a disaster in shallow wood castings. You'll pull air out of the wood and into the pour, and the expansion will empty your shallow rout. Pre-pour depends strongly on the epoxy. Some take it well, some don't. I basically never do it for epoxy (but...

You might be surprised the degree of variation there can be in different products. For example, Envirotex is highly sensitive to temperature-if it's below about 75 in the room when you first pour, it will literally never reach full hardness on matter what you do afterward. It will still cure but...