Recent content by CTGull

We've seen YYNOT 4 times this year, but the best one was the Sherman Theater in Stroudsburg PA. There must have been 700 people, nearly filled the place. They booked that gig because enough fans requested they play there that the venue contacted THEM and asked if they would come. They're...

What I'm looking for is another project. Making something out of nothing is more satisfying than buying it. And I'll probably learn something. And I can't justify spending the money. Wife would kill me! The Backscratcher is a novelty. So would a bass version. It actually sounds OK until...

I’m dredging this up from the depths. I just had the same idea last night. I’ve got a Martin Backscratcher that I don’t know what to do with. Got it cheap, made it playable. Well, physically playable. The way it sounds and the way it sits doesn’t make you want to play it. There’s only...

Well, I removed the back bow and with the truss rod loose the neck relief was about 1/8". Not bad. I tightened the truss rod and got the neck flat. I tuned it up and cranked the truss rod some more. There's still a little maybe 1/8" travel left. I got it to about .02" neck relief. I'll...

Without any truss rod or string tension, the neck relief is .06". Miles better than when I first started working on it. But with the truss rod tight (but not bottomed, but very close) the neck relief is .02" WITHOUT any string tension. With string tension, it's about 1/16". Still way too...

Those would be some extremely small washers! I have some for vintage Yamaha truss rods, but they're .34" diameter. The Fender nut is .31" diameter and is a snug fit in the pocket.

I verified it's single by removing the nut. I think most 6 string guitars went to dual acting truss rods, but I guess basses didn't. I'm OK with that!!

I verified it's a single acting truss rod. I loosened the strings, clamped a 2x4 to the neck, and backed out the nut as far as it would go. It stopped with it sticking out about 3/16", ran out of thread to push it out. It was tight in the hole. It took a while, but I cocked the Allen...

This indicates the nut is removable, although he didn't say what year it is. Squier P-Bass Truss Rod Nut

Good point. I never tried to remove the truss rod nut. I should do that first and determine which type of truss rod it is. THEN help it with some clamping. What type of clamping will be determined by what truss rod type I have.

While the YamaBass (vintage Yamaha FG-180 converted to a 25” scale microbass) is in progress, with very little progress (working on a complete refret after changing the fretboard radius to 12”), I thought I would buy a couple of “starter” basses to learn on. So I went to source for cheap...

That's what I've read. I can see the difference in a layout, but who knows if I'll notice in reality. I doing a neck reset and frets on a vintage Yamaha FG-140. I'm going to sand the fretboard to 12" and see if it feels any different.

I had already pulled most of the frets (with the intention of putting in Jumbo's), so I'll remove the rest and sand the fretboard from 16" to 12" radius. And deepen the slots. I had to open them anyway, the old Yamaha frets have thinner tangs than modern frets. It's amazing how this continues...

Well, there's the problem. I don't know what I like!! I'm not a bass player. Yet. If I raise the fretboard I'll have to raise the saddles, or raise the bridge, which I can't do if I'm using the Taylor pins. I'm going to lower the saddles as much as possible. But the neck angle sets the...

Since discovering the fretboard radius of most basses is much smaller than a 6 string guitar I’m rethinking my design. Last night I read many posts here about how some people prefer a small radius, and some a large radius. It’s a personal thing. I can see how a small radius would make it...