Recent content by Ptbakes77

Appreciate all the responses. Worked through all the steps, and embarrassingly the problem it came down to was the simplest one, the action. I measured it after capoeing the 1st fret and turns out it was lower than I thought. I didn't think it would make a 0.5 mm difference but here we are...

I considered bad strings but I've changed them once already and that didn't change much. I'll look into the neck plate. It does have through-body stringing and that was how the bass was originally set up. I prefer top loading but worth considering. Thanks!

The previous owner had half round strings installed. I suspect my current strings are heavier gauge or at least stronger tension but I don't know the exact brand he used

Theres a first for everything! I pressed down firmly on those points after the tuning pegs and off the bridge (which were a little curved, tbh) but did not resolve the issue

String height is set to 2.8 mm, high. I'm not noticing any of these problems before the 5th fret. No shim either--I'll try adding one, but having done that before, this is a different problem. Concerned now about a neck flaw but won't jump to any conclusions!

Yes I only did it last because it was the least likely problem. Checked action afterward

I don't remember as much rattling, but the choked out notes on the E string's higher frets were there

This is a new term for me. I looked over this post https://www.talkbass.com/threads/witness-points-the-pictorial.1217291/ to understand and from what I can tell my strings are coming off my tuners and bridge as straight as possible. I appreciate the response though

I recently bought a used 2008 American Standard P Bass and am pretty happy with it. However once I changed strings to my preferred Roto 66s, I noticed a couple of issues: --A noticeable fret buzz, primarily on the A string but E string as well, while digging in but not particularly hard. Only...

Thank you! Good to know it is not an IR.

That is nice, I've never seen a tech 21 head before! And yea, I'm not a perfectionist when it comes to this stuff, the fat tube setting is pretty much all I've been looking for. My favorite recorded bass tones are either svts or better yet low wattage flip tops, but I'm just trying to get loud...

You're probably right! I'm sure @tech21nyc would have a more complex answer as to what the cab sim does on a technical level, although I'm also wondering on a subjective level what that sounds like in practice. I also think they would defer to their technical manual as to this whole question...

Good tips. I do use an eq pedal pre SansAmp mostly for more mid shaping, and with my old pickups, cutting some of the boom. And good info re the vt and cab sim option, but to me the cab sim hasn't really been a big deal at least from what I've noticed. Cab sim is basically just a LP filter...

VT is still around and good, just ampeg tones. The big deal was that it had the mid eq before the bddi did. The bddi v2 does have a mid control and while I haven't a-b tested the two, I've read it can pretty much do everything the vt does and more. The selling point to me was the presence knob...

There's definitely some amps that I'm more familiar with and comfortable with how the EQ should be (svt of course, Aguilar tone hammer) where that's less of a problem. My goal is to more or less sound the same every time, so if I get the option I'm always going direct. It's funny cuz I used to...