Recent content by ReeseyC

I typically don't use any except for the occasional chorus pedal or octave pedal, but it's kind of a "chicken/egg" thing: it's kind of hard for me to tell at home how a pedal's going to sound on stage, so whenever I try to add pedals to the mix for rehearsals or live shows they don't sound...

Thanks! I think you're probably right — I don't think I really understood how much more difficult I made it on myself by adding in the 3-way switch. I'm sure it's a pretty easy job for those with more experience, but considering my limited knowledge of electronics and wiring basics, it was...

That seems like a more realistic goal. And probably a more valuable one — I doubt I'd benefit much from knowing how to use a multimeter if I don't understand what I'm looking for or what the readings represent.

It's definitely been a bit of both, haha. But I'm glad it worked out — I'd much rather learn how to do these kinds of projects than have to take my basses to a repair shop every time a pot goes bad. Now if I can just learn how to properly use a multimeter, I'll be set :D

UPDATE: Last night I took everything out and started the rewire from scratch. I took the advice of some of the folks in the thread and removed the 3-way switch from the circuit, and I went back to the old jack (just in case the new one was creating a short). I also worked off of a different...

Yeah, it looks like that's the next step from here. I can do that (and probably will if the steps I try next don't work); I posted the tumbleweed just in case there were any experienced solder...ers out there who could quickly identify a bad joint.

I have no idea who made the pickups. There's no branding or anything, and Brice didn't have any specs or documentation for this bass, so it's a mystery. I know the Invalid Link Removed pickups would fit if I swapped them out, but I don't want to spend $200+ on new pickups if the current ones are...

So for right now it seems like I have a few things to try: 1) Switch back to the original output jack with the plastic housing (in case the new jack is touching the sides of the cavity and causing a short); 2) Remove the 3-way switch from the circuit; 3) Check pots and connections with...

The foil is grounded, and I believe all non-grounded components are isolated.

No, I think it's just the angle of the photo — that arm's only touching the terminal it's soldered to.

Agreed, the solder work isn't perfect, but I'm fairly confident there are no cold solder joints. Even if there were, it's my understanding that cold soldering typically leads to issues down the road but not necessarily right away, no? I'll try to take a look with my multimeter, but I still...

I'm totally willing to scrap the switch if necessary; I basically just wanted something to fit in the fourth slot where the blend pot used to be and I figured a switch was as good an option as any. But it sounds like it's actually more trouble than it's worth having it in there :D Two...

Here's a slightly updated pic - it's kinda crowded in there, so it's hard to label everything. I used the same color wires in the pic as the ones shown in the wiring diagram (except for the purple wire, which I didn't have so I used black there instead). I've also attached a pic of the jack too...

No, not running EMGs (no idea what pickups Brice used back then, though) - I just used the EMG diagram since it's the two pickup/V-V-T-3way/active configuration I'm going for in my bass. Good idea on the jack; the original jack had a plastic housing but the new one doesn’t, so it could be...

I'm just about at wit's end here, and I'm hoping somebody can help me figure out what I'm doing wrong. I've been trying to rewire my 5-string fretless for a while now — I made a thread a few years ago asking about the specs/wiring diagram for it. Brice has since discontinued this bass (I've had...