Recent content by Stealth

They're probably wired like this: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] That's the way most Gibson instruments are wired, too. The downside of this wiring is that, as you turn it counter-clockwise to turn the volume down, you're actually lowering the resistance between the output and the ground...

Passive Stu Hamm? Invalid Link Removed You can omit the push-pull if you want to.

Late to the party, I know. But I had my SQ VM BVI tuned to that exact same tuning for a year using the Kalium .063 set. Worked like a charm.

It's heavily figured maple, one of the most beautiful pieces I've seen. Before getting that bass I don't ever recall seeing a figured maple fingerboard. Here's a closeup. Shot under bad lighting, looks much more stunning in brighter light.

Just had the body routed and the pickguard drilled for the controls... Wiring commences this weekend as the heatwave dissipates.

The top DPDT (on-on with the top two pins connected) is series-parallel for the Jazz pickups. The bottom DPDT (on-on-on with the middle pins connected) is the pickup selector. All ground symbols must be connected, so they all have to end up at the jack's ground lug.

Just to pipe in on the subject again, Crater explained it exactly as I would. I listed 500 kOhm and .047 uF because I know I wanted a brighter sound out of it from the get-go, but also because having too many coils active at the same time leads to a less bright tone, so the 500 kOhm pots offset...

I played a Rockinbetter once. Felt good under the fingers, and the tone was very, very close. Not exactly a Ric, though I do not have a good sample for comparison - I only played a '74 4001 once for half an hour.

If it's humming whenever you touch the poles, the polepieces aren't properly grounded. Make sure the polepieces aren't connected to either of the leads of the pickups - instead, put a layer of self-adhesive copper tape on the polepieces from below, and run a wire from that to the sleeve...

Hopkins, ponticat, thank you both. I'll reply back once the deed is done. I just hope I can find someplace that prints white decals, as I'd rather have white text on it, as was stock.

Well, that's a short and to-the-point explanation, Hopkins. Much obliged. When you say dye, do you mean using a water-based stain? What is the purpose of the black dying, to make the grain "pop out" more before applying the red? Additionally, the original veneer had a white spray-painted logo...

I recently acquired a rather cheap, $200 guitar from a store that sells J&D (nowadays, Yeou Chern) instruments because I've had luck with two previous instruments of the same brand - woodwork and hardware were good, and the electronics solid enough to keep, although I'm no stranger to rewiring...

My second bass, a Yamaha RBX375. I still use it with one of the bands, though I'm planning on setting up a MusicMan preamp in just to hear how it works. The stock one doesn't have controls that alter the sound enough for my tastes.

And just as I bought a batch of on-off-on switches that can fit into a Bass VI. Sigh. I haven't had the time to look through all the combinations, but I find the bottom table a bit confusing at first glance. Can you clarify what the +, / and * mean in your case?

Dunlop Stubby 1.0mm.