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Review: 22" Fingy bass by MiHado Guitar Studio (sub-short scale content)

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Hey, bassers. I’ve had this instrument since November ’20 and have been wanting to do a proper review for a while. However, pandemic craziness got in the way, so weeks turned into months, and here we are. Just took a few photos to go with the review, and I did a short video as well, in which I’m most probably disrespecting Miles Davis, but I'll have to post a link to that later.

Before I begin with the review, a short history of my choice of basses. Over the past 5 years, I’ve transitioned from 34” and 35” basses to short scale instruments. I’ve gone from active to passive electronics; From rounds to flats; From 6- and 5-strings to 4-stringed instruments. In addition to feeling more comfortable with shorter scales, my role as instrumentalist has expanded greatly. I play in a number of “electronic” outfits where I often find myself on chord and “mood” duty, rather than just playing the bass part.

Secondly, let me point out that this a very modestly priced instrument. I acquired this bass for about the same amount as a Mexican-made Fender Mustang bass. So when you read my critique of the instrument, keep this in mind. Obviously, it is not a Fodera. But the bass was made quickly and cheaply, to my specifications and for relatively little money, which will affect the final score.

And lastly, in case anyone reading this is in doubt: this is not a standard bass. As with other sub-short scale instruments, there are some things that are going to be different. Due to the neck-less nature of the build, there is bound to be some slight acoustic buzzing around the first fret, for example (that’s what I’ve experienced on such instruments, at least). Luckily, this buzzing isn’t evident in the output, and further, the acoustic artefact can be helped by installing lower-tension strings, which I may choose to do at some point.

Build process and customer service:
The guy (or guys?) at MihaDo were quick to respond to my messages on Facebook Messenger. They were very helpful with answering any questions and making suggestions on the build. For example, I was concerned about both the functionality of an acoustic guitar-style bridge and the aesthetics of a Fender-type bent plate bridge. With their help, I settled on a monorail-type bridge, which solved both issues to my satisfaction.

I did not receive a formal receipt after depositing the money for the build, which seemed a bit strange.

Not a lot of information from the builder during the build process, I have to say. No progress photos before I saw them on MihaDo’s Facebook page a couple of days before it was complete. But I needn’t have worried, since the build was made to my exact specs. Some word of progress during the build would have been a nice touch, though.

A couple of weeks after receiving the instrument, there was an issue with the wiring – the instrument suddenly made no sound at all. I got in touch with MihaDo, and they told me send a couple of photos of the control cavity. The loose wire was quickly spotted, and under their direction I was able to solder it back in place.

Quality and finish:
The woodwork is simplistic (see my opening remarks), but the overall lines of the design flow nicely. I like the choice of bevels on the body; It is a very pleasing and "clean" look. The paint job is slightly translucent in the middle of the instrument, both front and back, almost like a very faint black burst.
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It's not really elegant, but the lines of the design flow well at the longer than usual scale. Some of the hardware looks cheap, though. There are some "cakes" on a few of the bridge saddles, but the saddles themselves are functional enough. The tuning mechanisms look a bit DIY-ish: washers and Hex/unbraco nuts. A curled knob that you could turn with your fingers, instead of with a key, would make tuning a lot easier, but such a solution would probably also bring the price up.
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Frets are really good, and the intonation is right on, even at the very top of the fingerboard. No buzzing, aside from the minor issue mentioned in the introduction. Back contour of the “neck” is surprisingly comfortable, even though, visually, it seems very square and clunky. I don’t think the neck contour would be a problem for players used to, say, a thin Ibanez neck profile.

It came with a small gig bag. I’m surprised that it fits so well, considering that I requested a non-standard scale length. The bag is standard unpadded black nylon - too flimsy to trust “tossing” the instrument in the back with the rest of the gear, but it is quite practical when carrying on public transport. I might get some kind of padded synth bag for the bass eventually, which I was planning on doing before I knew it came with a bag.

Sound and playability:
The sound is very clean, and the setup is very simple. Output is quite hot compared to other basses, so some adjustments have to be made when tracking.

A unique feature to this model is the two minijacks: an AUX in and headphones out. The idea is that you can either play along to your favorite tunes or just practice without an amp. It works fine as a concept, but both minijacks are a bit crackly. It’s kind of neat, but not something I’ll be using much.

It took a while to get used to how the instrument balances when played sitting down. The lower bout of the body is rounded to a degree which makes it difficult to rest it on your thigh – it sort of just rolls off your leg! Holding the bass like a classical guitar helped a great deal. The "butt wings"(…) on the far side of the bridge almost hug your right thigh, and the short fingerboard is comfortable enough to play at a (for me) steeper than usual angle.

The original placement of the strap buttons was awkward, not to say objectively unsuited for playing while standing up - completely useless for me, personally, at least. I tried it a few times, with the strap coming loose, even. I have since relocated the left strap button to roughly the middle of the body for better balance, and now it balances perfectly, and there are no issues with it coming loose.
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Final conclusion:
I think this instrument will stick with me. I only own one other bass, a Fender Mustang (JMJ), so versatility is very important for me. This bass fits all the bills that a (great) one-trick pony like the Mustang doesn’t. I am even considering getting a 6-string version made sometime in the future. If I do that, I’ll order one without the issues mentioned above, like the line in/line out, the need for a tuning tool and relocating the strap buttons.

Value for money: 10/10

Playability: 7/10

Quality: 6.5/10

Sound: 8/10

Combined score: 7.8/10
 
Nice - really interesting to see this kind of instrument.

Please forgive my ignorance but with these kinds of scale lengths, is reduced string tension just part and parcel of the experience/something that you work with?
 
Nice - really interesting to see this kind of instrument.
Yes, thanks for the honest in-depth review! I think I'd be disappointed and unhappy with the described clumsiness and unbalance of it, and also the inability to tune it w/o using a special key.
However a good trick that classical guitarists use (and I use on my own basses) that prevents slippery instruments from sliding off your lap is to place some 'grip' style tape on the instruments bottom edge, and/or also place a small piece of rubberized cloth in your lap. You can get the tape in different colors (I use a less severe transparent type), and a good lap cloth is the rubberized drawer and shelf lining stuff you can get from any dollar store. When using both the tape and the cloth together I can rest just about any unstrapped bass guitar in my lap so solidly I can almost let go of it's neck w/o it diving... :thumbsup:
Greywoulf
 
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Nice - really interesting to see this kind of instrument.

Please forgive my ignorance but with these kinds of scale lengths, is reduced string tension just part and parcel of the experience/something that you work with?
I don't know much about it, actually, but for me it took a bit of getting used to. It definitely won't feel the same as your 34" Precision. But for me, it made sense, since I went from long to medium to short over the past couple of years. I went too far a couple of years ago when I ordered a 16" Wing Bass. That felt too unlike "a bass" to me. This 22" is more like it.
 
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Yeah, it's E-C. I tried a B-G on a Wing Bass last year, but the B-string was not really functional other than the bottom few frets.
So tuned to the same low E (E1) as a standard bass?
If so (but also...if not so), what are the gauges then?
What's the highest up you like venturing, in terms of frets, before it gets too chorusy?

(Apologies for the barrage of questions. Oh, and for not complimenting the instrument: I really like it.)
 
Yes, thanks for the honest in-depth review! I think I'd be disappointed and unhappy with the described clumsiness and unbalance of it, and also the inability to tune it w/o using a special key.
However a good trick that classical guitarists use (and I use on my own basses) that prevents slippery instruments from sliding off your lap is to place some 'grip' style tape on the instruments bottom edge, and/or also place a small piece of rubberized cloth in your lap. You can get the tape in different colors (I use a less severe transparent type), and a good lap cloth is the rubberized drawer and shelf lining stuff you can get from any dollar store. When using both the tape and the cloth together I can rest just about any unstrapped bass guitar in my lap so solidly I can almost let go of it's neck w/o it diving... :thumbsup:
Greywoulf
Thanks, I know about "the tape" :D Now that I've solved the strap button placement, though, it just took a bit of getting used to. I mostly stand, anyway, but sitting is comfortable, too. There's definitely room for improvement re: the tuning key, but since they're making a new instrument, I think that's fair. The washer/bolt-thing is definitely inferior to, say, a Hipshot bridge. I'm sure they can install one. If there is a next time, I'll figure that into my budget.
 
So tuned to the same low E (E1) as a standard bass?
If so (but also...if not so), what are the gauges then?
What's the highest up you like venturing, in terms of frets, before it gets too chorusy?

(Apologies for the barrage of questions. Oh, and for not complimenting the instrument: I really like it.)

Compliments don't work on me, you fool! ;) But it's not a problem! Standard tuning, with an added high C-string. They look like medium gauge roundwounds, but you could swap them out for any type, I guess. You could a B-string on there and even guitar strings. I have't noticed any problem with a chorus-like sound, and I play way up the neck. Link Removed The Fingy bass is the only instrument in use there, besides the drum machine (not mixed yet, so there's that)
 
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Certainly cool. Interesting design. I was going to ask about tuning but I was late so I see the answer. So don’t accuse me of not reading because I’m terribly sensitive about that because a bookshelf fell on my head when I was a kid so I associate reading with that trauma and I don’t care to discuss it.

If it’s 22”-Ish that makes it about 25” total? You could stuff it in a suitcase for travel. Very neat.
 
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They look like medium gauge roundwounds (...) I have't noticed any problem with a chorus-like sound, and I play way up the neck.
If they are normal-gauge rounds I'm not surprised they aren't too inharmonic up the neck. I suppose you have to adapt your technique somewhat, in order to avoid the drawbacks of light tension (fret noise, sproing-y pitch upon the attack, unwanted micro-bends by the fretting finger etc.). Still, I've read of similar attempts at standard-octave bass tuning with that scale and even less, so I know it can work. Enjoy.
 
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Now that you've had it for about a year, anything else to add?

I'm GASsing for an instrument like this. I like smaller scales (e.g. U-bass), and headless makes it more maneuverable. I have been known to bump my Mikro's headstock into the desk/other gear while recording stuff. Plus they just look cool!

I'd probably go with 5 strings, fretted, but I'm not sure what size I want to go for -- leaning toward 20" or 22" though.

What do you think of the bridge on yours? The moveable bridge they use on most of their smaller instruments makes me wonder how stable the intonation would be and thinking you're pretty much stuck with whatever action they set it for.
 
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Can you tell us the gauge of the strings, the maker of the strings, and, are they stable?

Sorry, I missed your question. The strings are stable. Haven't had a single break. E-C strings are medium gauge, no particular brand that I'm aware of. For the F, I'm using an Ernie Ball Mammoth Slinky 24w guitar string (so the thinnest wound string from that set).
 
Now that you've had it for about a year, anything else to add?

I'm GASsing for an instrument like this. I like smaller scales (e.g. U-bass), and headless makes it more maneuverable. I have been known to bump my Mikro's headstock into the desk/other gear while recording stuff. Plus they just look cool!

I'd probably go with 5 strings, fretted, but I'm not sure what size I want to go for -- leaning toward 20" or 22" though.

What do you think of the bridge on yours? The moveable bridge they use on most of their smaller instruments makes me wonder how stable the intonation would be and thinking you're pretty much stuck with whatever action they set it for.

I'm more comfortable and happy with it now. I've actually sold my other standard basses and am using the Fingy as my primary composing and performing tool. But I've also ordered a new instrument from them, a 6-string multiscale (25"/23"), with an additional pickup and without active electronics. Plus, a bridge system with built-in tuning knobs, so I don't have to rely on a key or wrench - undeniably a downside to the 5-string. The bridges themselves are fine enough, and I'm still glad I decided on these instead of the one used on their earlier instruments in particular. I see that they're making a lot more with the option I have. But as mentioned, not being able to tune without a tool has been annoying.

The 22" has been fine, but I wanted to see about a slightly longer scale - and I wanted that E back. It's not the same with an octave pedal, even a really good one.
 
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Thanks for the response, it's making me more confident about ordering one. :)

I've also ordered a new instrument from them, a 6-string multiscale (25"/23"), with an additional pickup and without active electronics. Plus, a bridge system with built-in tuning knobs, so I don't have to rely on a key or wrench

Cool, I'm looking forward to your NBD post about that. :D Does the bridge with tuning knobs add much to the cost?

I wanted that E back. It's not the same with an octave pedal, even a really good one.

I'm confused about the tuning you have there... thought it was the same octave as a standard bass, EADG plus a high C, with the E at 41 Hz? But then you mentioned an F. Did you wind up switching to ADGCF?
 
Thanks for the response, it's making me more confident about ordering one. :)



Cool, I'm looking forward to your NBD post about that. :D Does the bridge with tuning knobs add much to the cost?



I'm confused about the tuning you have there... thought it was the same octave as a standard bass, EADG plus a high C, with the E at 41 Hz? But then you mentioned an F. Did you wind up switching to ADGCF?

Yeah, it seems it has been a while since I posted the review. Didn't realize. I switched to A-F for recording purposes about 9 months ago, and I grew attached to the high notes, so I never switched back.
The new bass was a bit more, and the bridge is probably responsible for a chunk of the cost (not MihaDo's own DIY design) , but it's also more wood, an extra pickup, fanned frets and a few other secret features ;)
 
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Hope you don't mind me coming in to pick your brains, but you seem to be one of the few people online talking about these!

I assume the headphone/aux runs off of battery?? What does it use and roughly how long does it last??

With regards to the crackly minijacks, do you know if this is something to do with a not perfect solder joint or perhaps some kind of electrical crosstalk??

Since you've been in the control cavity, is there much space in there for an active preamp, or perhaps an in built octave like I've seen on some of the wing basses or other small pedal effects??
 
Hope you don't mind me coming in to pick your brains, but you seem to be one of the few people online talking about these!

I assume the headphone/aux runs off of battery?? What does it use and roughly how long does it last??

With regards to the crackly minijacks, do you know if this is something to do with a not perfect solder joint or perhaps some kind of electrical crosstalk??

Since you've been in the control cavity, is there much space in there for an active preamp, or perhaps an in built octave like I've seen on some of the wing basses or other small pedal effects??

No problem at all - fire away!

There's a 9 volt battery inside, but since I've hardly used it, I can't really say anything about its life expetancy. It doesn't appear to drain battery if you're just plugging in the bass as you normally would. When you flip the switch to turn on the AUX circuit, a small LED comes on and the standard out-signal is cut.

You may be right about the soldering, but I think the crackling is just cheap parts and a less than optimal technology that won't ever get better. Minijacks have always been dodgy. There crackled back in the walkperson days, and they crackled in the MP3 players days.

It's a pretty standard (Ibanez-ish) control cavity, pretty roomy. The AUX circuit (which is actually a preamp, I guess?) is pretty big, actually, but if you just had a passive bass with a couple of pots in there, there should be enough room for an octave circuit or a preamp, I think.