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9 cups for you or split between two? Even then that's a lot of coffee. I'd never sleep. More off topic: once I was in a new band. First gig. No one else had ever played a gig. They were all nervous and they were surprised that I had three coffees right before to get energised.

SEB2-ABPA+ https://www.ebay.com/itm/188483593146?itmmeta=01M0QRX1GJFD38BH6YQ3G7K8YP&hash=item2be27f63ba:g:3JsAAOSwVylmZJMD

I have Entwistle Js in a bass. They are slightly oversized and darker sounding (which was fine for my purposes).

I regret giving back the JV Squier P and selling my 1984 Fender P MIJ...

They also have vari gauss that look interesting (not tried them).

(Circa 2 to 3 days for drying per application)

I've played ones with poly before, and it seemed a bit too much. I find oiled rosewood to be a good compromise. Granted, I have an one with ebanol with rounds for the zingy end of things, not that TI Jazz Rounds are that zingy.

Is there a four shaft option?

Single/parallel/single if the holes were so expensive

The oils polymerise as they dry. And they do dry, so then there's no moisture.

Series/parallel for each pickup in the spare holes?

After 18 months of rounds on my first fretless (rosewood) I had to have it sanded down as it was so damaged as to be unplayable. After the linseed oil it's never needed more than light landings, although these days it has flats on. So YMMV. The linseed oil did soak in fairly well. The second...

I'm English and it was many years ago so I treated it like a cricket bat and put linseed oil on it over a period of a couple of years. It's pretty tough now. Bur you could also consider La Bella tape wounds or TI Jazz flats.

That definitely needs pro help. Poking out the filler and putting in veneers I could do. I've done the second bit. Getting the nut on and off to sand it just so afterwards is the bigger issue. But taking the board off - no way I'd attempt that myself.

I see one small chip in the image. So I'd reckon on not only filling the slots but some other remedial action required. You could probably sand 0.5mm off the top and fix the small chip, but it's not like a Fender but - you can't just pop it out and stick it back in.

I'd buy that for a dollar. Maybe $0.25.

I managed to install wood. I suspect picking the filler out isn't hard provided you are focused on it and have several hours spare.

I did that on a guitar, and it wasn't too hard. Personally, I'd go for darker veneer for a stealth look.

The Tribute L-2000 is growing on me. I am getting some usable sounds (everything at 10 is not the way forward). I have purchased some replacement knobs (if I can work out where I put them this week when 'tidying') with marks on them for better visual reference. 12th fret E string action at 1.4mm...

Yes, read the manual. If it doesn't say RMS, then do some research. But then even with RMS some say that (as they did in the 90s) that Trace Elliot or whichever brand Watts were 'louder'. And tube Watts are 3.14 times louder, of course.

It uses RMS for PA amps, just not others. I tend to compare ones not listing it as RMS by dividing the quoted number by 4 as that way I am not disappointed. Perhaps dividing by 3 is more accurate or something, but that potentially allows for some level of buyer regret after purchasing. PMPO and...

There are people out there who have done tests on the amps (agedhorse would be able to rate how valid their tests are) on a variety of Behringer products which tend to indicate that unless stated as RMS they are definitely not.

OFF TOPIC: Westone Thunder IAs had a series/parallel switch for the P, which was quite useful. On at least some Magnatone pickup versions (later ones) you could put in more pole pieces and make it a full traditional-style humbucker.

Two options: different strings or an exact duplicate for live. The bassist for The Who has had his main bass cloned, for example.

I haf two red 1995 Precision Lytes at one point. I have two 2005 Squier Standard P Specials, but different colours.

Variable Constant

Yes, that's why they never turn up.

From unsigned to signed later, surely? But are they positive (funk) or negative (death metal)?

A Whole Lotta Various. Led Zeppelin, Deep Purple, Black Sabbath and other early 70s classic rock. But no Status Quo.

Series/parallel/single gives you more options, although with one volume and a pickup toggle, you're a little limited due to volume differences between series and single.

I had one and wish I'd kept it. I put the wrong tone cap value in. It had an MM added in the appropriate location. Amazing neck - wide but flat. I put in series/parallel switching. The neck pickup seemed fine to me.

With better measuring, 1st fret measurements Target is 19.5mm (1984 Tokai Jazz, 1995 Precision Light, 2005 Squier Standard Precision Special all much the same), starting point is 20.5mm. interestingly, width is just over 39mm so a hair wide for a jazz bass. The others listed are all pretty...

I'm not overly concerned - I have basses with necks that are thinner and they seem quite stable. Tools I have, when my mobility allows me to clear the crap at the front of the garage so I can get to the tools at the back including the coarse and fine rasps. It'll be a little while (mobility...

I have rasps. The garage is just a mess at the moment as I dumped a load of stuff in it right before temporary mobility issues. I just can't get to the majority of my tools safely at the moment. It might be a few more weeks. I did order a new pair of digital calipers as I'm not sure if the...

I once got the date wrong and turned up an entire day early for an audition and still got the gig. The band then promptly imploded (couple issues).

I think last time I just used the blade off a Stanley knife as I didn't have a spokeshave. I used the sharp blade to just scrape. It took a while. I do have a spokeshave now, various rasps. They are in the garage so inaccessible, bar the spokeshave... Dangerous.

It's the only information I could find when I slimmed it the first time. That makes sense. That's a neck profile I like, stemming back to my third bass (only on long term loan) which was a Squier JV P bass. Thanks for the advice. 2mm is 5/64th of a freedom unit.

I'll measure again. My digital calipers broke, and my mechanical ones are in the garage behind a lot junk I can't clear because I currently have some mobility issues. But either way, the Warmoth neck is 2mm deeper as far as I can tell. It looks deeper based on the measurements I can currently...

The bars didn't do the thing promised - eliminate dead spots, but did reduce the requirement for truss rod adjustments. That's just as well as the adjustment is at the heel.

That's a thought. I suppose best to check where the wood thickness is likely to be least (near the nut). It's not an unplayable neck, it just might be nice a little slimmer. The other option is the freebie neck (no metal bars) and slim that down.