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Very sweet!

are you a photographer Lisa? Your photos look really good. are those backdrop stands you are supporting your bass on? Cheers!

Behlens Wool Lube works really well with Abralon or Trizact.

Still, in 4 hours, it is nowhere near finished. With the standard users 3 coats @ 4 hours, that is OK. With too many coats too fast, it is possible to have a situation where the outside cures harder than the inside layers of finish. In extreme cases (which happen easily in some finishes)...

Let it cure and buff with Abralon 1000, 2000, 3000, whatever, after a couple months. You can put that on your random orbital and just go for it. If 1000, then be quick, and watch what you are doing. You can also use that by hand. For the top, hit is quick with 1000 abralon, then with...

I know you said you do not like epoxy, but... for grain filling, first a soaking coat of Smith's CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy System) followed by a coat of System 3 Clear Coat Epoxy is very forgiving of error. If the surface is pretty well sanded to begin with, the CPES penetrates so...

and dedicated routers... yes

yeah.. it's a pretty deep rabbit hole.. If you want to build more instruments, a band saw, a drum sander, and a table saw, plus a winning lottery ticket for small hand tools....

band saw table saw

How is the Behlen filler as far as shrinkage over the few weeks to months after application?

What do you plan on using for grain filler?

Fair enough. I know nothing about bass strings, but I suspect that they have as much effect as strings do on other instruments. Your bass looks beautiful, way to rock it! When are you starting your next build?

Isn't it more important how the instrument sounds with a given string, than how it looks? Do these different strings really sound the same?

Ah.. yes, I got the single phase model. My shop does not have 3 phase power. I had been using a 7.5 HP IngersollRand for years, It was like an earthquake going off. This one is the bees knees! I use pneumatic sanders, polishers, so I need the CFM. Probably could get by with a little...

I think positive pressure is part of what is required, why the cartridges are not approved. I had not heard of a cartridge that works for that stuff. I know that with some paints containing polyisocyanates, you can walk in painting, and get hauled out in a body bag in relatively short...

that compressor from tractorsupply looks like it would work fine for running an HVLP gun.

here is what I have. I can barely hear it come on most of the time. Love it. [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

yes, it pulls air from wherever you set the pump. I think up to like 300 or 600 feet away. ( I forget)

Yes, it is a great system. I think the price is to pay the insurance companies. I am selling one of them. Already sold one. Keeping one.. If your system works though...

this... Link Removed A vane pump with carbon vanes, a hose, and a mask. Gotta move a little more carefully with the hose, but the air is fresh!

Yes, and a lot of the time when people are talking poly, they are talking about what you can buy at Home Depot, or the local hardware store, maybe a more professional poly, like for finishing wood floors, cabinetry, etc. I have more experience with Nitro ( close to several thousand...

cool, thanks.. i don't have a ton of time for arguing stuff on forums. i do have some very solid finishing experience, as a professional finisher, not someone finishing my own stuff. I would love to learn more. Please share. The world of finishing is huge. What poly are you...

Are you talking automotive urethane, or other professional urethane finishes like UV cures, etc. I left that option out of the conversation, cuz they are dangerous without professional awareness/ equipment, air supplied respirator, or economically impractical for non high production...

(Cardinal) nitro... so, so much easier, so much better. It has an undeserved reputation for being difficult, or dangerous. It is neither. If you can do a good job with poly, you can probably do a good job with nitro. Only with nitro, the end results can blow (standard) poly finishes...

sorry..

Any ideas why the board cracked? Looks like the repair worked really well.

CA will work well, with care to not make a mess. Some material will need to be removed to work through the depth to which the CA will soak to, to maintain the shape of the board, any relief. CA will work. Thin CA is probably the best mechanically, though it might take a couple fills or more.

if you like the instrument, give it to a luthier. If you are willing to risk ruining it, try not to.

very pretty bass

maybe 0.045" ish.. thick

I wondered about cutting a thin piece of carbon fiber sheet, like about 0.030" thick. Carefully cut to fit tight in the cavity. Set into just enough high quality epoxy, like System 3 T-88. Maybe a teeny fillet after around the perimeter. A thin laminate of that stuff adds SO much...

CA will fill it, If you arte really careful and use something like Starbond 150 (medium flow. You can carefully scrape it back down. It will show as a line, but not as a crack. I would fill it. Epoxy will work too. If you scrape epoxy when it is 'green' that might be a pretty easy fix...

give it to a skilled luthier. If you need to ask, it is worth hiring someone with skills.. Probably an easy repair. All the old glue needs to be fully removed if it was previously glued with Titebond. HHG is more forgiving of that. HHG is less sensitive to heat, and also less prone...

probably shellac with waxed ends. Shellac is better for sealing wood, except maybe in the case of shipping Ebony or such that is green. Wax coatings are usually pretty thick, and more impenetrable by moisture, in either direction. Shellac allows some moisture to move out of the board...

Is that really wax on the piece from glimer? or shellac. Definitely looks like the ends are waxed. Most boards I buy from Gilmer are shellacced with waxed ends. I do not recall any that were fully coated in wax.

Well I cut it to 43", so I can easily get 2 longer blanks from it by flipping the pattern. As I resawed it, first I did a test of cutting 1" off the end to rip it in half and see if case hardening had caused any issues, as I do not know if it was kiln dried or not, suspect it was. It...

Thats what I was thinking... Thank you Hammerhed! you saved me from moving this big thing more than I need to. Time to cut some wood, the first cut for this bass!

Quick question here.. How long is enough for a 35" scale bass with an upper horn that extends pretty far. I know this is a 'fuzzy' question, but.. I bought this piece of Mahogany last week, 12' long, 12/4, by 14" wide, with the intention of a body for a new bass build, as well as...

can you post some pics of what you are looking at? you have me curious.. the whole piece, and a close up.. when the Wenge is oiled it will darken considerably. Often, some Wenge will look light tan color when freshly sawn, and will darken quickly. I work with a lot of Wenge, I do not...

open grained woods that are not filled, and lacquered, look awful. I think Wenge can look great when it is filled, and lacquered. Wenge looks fantastic when it is just highly polished and oiled.