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1973 Rickenbacker input questions

Rickosound is stereo - it basically separates the two pickups into two amps or FX setups, which is how Chris Squire used it.
You need a stereo cable and then either a splitter box or the cable has to be stereo to a Y cord with dual mono ends. I built a little box for mine, but Rick made an overpriced one for a while and there was at least one 3rd party version too.
 
If it hasn't been said before, the Ric-O-Sound box is simply a stereo splitter. You would use a stereo cable from the bass to the splitter, which allows you to send the neck pickup to one amp and the bridge pickup to another. A much better option than a Y cable, especially if you use a pedal board.
 
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In my opinion, using a split cable is the easiest way, and you can use different effects for each pup. The problem is if you use another bass that is not stereo. I did this 45 years ago. I put a second pup in the fretless P and wired it stereo so I could switch basses and use the same stereo Y cord.
 
My dad surprised me with a nice graduation gift from grad school and got me a 1973 rick and I know one output jack is normal and the other is for a rick o’something or other? Can anyone explain what that means, if it matters, and does it involve buying more gear?

current setup (if it matters): darkglass microtubes 900 through a carvin 4x12.

with one of these you can run each pickup into a separate amp

1489686330_252299.jpg


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I think I mentioned this before.
I used to use a Rick with a 2 channel SVT. Used the Ric o sound splitter. Put the neck pickup through channel 1 & the bridge pickup through channel 2.I would use an MXR Phase 90 on the bridge pickup only. Sounded great!
 
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Yay!!! Make sure you run a mono setup out of the correct jack or one pickup won't work (the one hooked to the other stereo lug). The stereo jack is set up like the ones for headphones. Ric5 kindly sent a pic in post #27. If you use a stereo cable in a mono bass no harm will be done as the second lead will simply be a dummy unused ground and the remaining mono line will work as it normally would without its evil twin. The unsung beauty of Ric O Sound stereo is how you can record them in stereo as well as live. Killer sounds, the extremely versatile EQ and the ability to ad different effect to either pickup channel is a recipe for an unlimited tonal palette.
 
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If I were to use the splitter I figured I’d want to use two bass amps for though


Assuming the previous owner hasn't snipped it, the "Treble" (bridge) pickup has a capacitor that filters out low frequencies, as it's designed to safely feed a guitar amp / speaker.

That capacitor often got removed, to restore the bass frequencies, and make the bridge pickup useful in it's own right.

Even if you can't be bothered to cart an additional amp & cabinet around for live gigs, Rick-O-Sound is still great for recording.

Additionally, any 2 channel amp that allows you to bridge the channels together, should enable you to put the neck pickup through the normal channel, and the bridge pickup (with any distortion, chorus etc) through the bright channel.

Of course, you loose the biggest advantage : spatial separation. But you do at least gain a more controlled parallel effect.

I actually have an old Marshall bass amp, that features a normal channel, a bright channel, and an additional stereo input that takes the signal from the treble pickup on the Tip of a TRS lead, and feeds the bright channel. It takes the signal from the bass pickup on the TRS Ring, and feeds the normal channel.


As others have mentioned, do your homework before adjusting Rickenbacker truss rods.


The other thing that I don't think has been mentioned : older 4001's used soft fret wire, and were intended to be used with flat wound strings.

Assuming the previous owner has treated it right, you probably don't want to start using stainless steel round wound strings (afraid I can't remember which year Rickenbacker started using tougher fret wire, so ask around on the Rickenbacker club here, or Rickenbacker Forums what is safe to use).
 
For Ric-o-Sound I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHHGQ...colid=6DYW6NISIOUL&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

You need one TRS 1/4" cable from the bass to the Y splitter, and then two normal mono guitar cables from the Y to each amp or signal chain.

What you feed each pickup into up to you, but I suggest a bass amp for the neck pickup and a guitar head (with bass cab) for the bridge pickup. Crank the gain on the guitar head so it gets some sparkly overdrive, and love the sound.

I have gigged this setup quite a few times, but it depends on how much room there is on the stage, how long our set is, etc. I've also had sound guys throw a fit when they see me setting up two amps (usually the ones who say "I've been doing this 25 years blah blah blah!"), but if you can provide two DIs or mic it up yourself that helps with that issue.
 
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C'mon, where's the photo?
Congrats! On your degree, and having a great Dad.
I still have my 73 Rick that I bought in... 1973!
I've fooled around occasionally with Ric-O-Sound, but never gigged with it in all these years. For me, it's a gimmick and another cord to lose. But Chris Squire (Yes) used it in the olden days. I could see that if you're really into effects, it would be cool to figure out how to exploit it.
699B6471-0C93-4B32-A7C2-D2DD9F4CC6D8.jpeg
 
Assuming the previous owner hasn't snipped it, the "Treble" (bridge) pickup has a capacitor that filters out low frequencies, as it's designed to safely feed a guitar amp / speaker.

That capacitor often got removed, to restore the bass frequencies, and make the bridge pickup useful in it's own right.

Even if you can't be bothered to cart an additional amp & cabinet around for live gigs, Rick-O-Sound is still great for recording.

Additionally, any 2 channel amp that allows you to bridge the channels together, should enable you to put the neck pickup through the normal channel, and the bridge pickup (with any distortion, chorus etc) through the bright channel.

Of course, you loose the biggest advantage : spatial separation. But you do at least gain a more controlled parallel effect.

I actually have an old Marshall bass amp, that features a normal channel, a bright channel, and an additional stereo input that takes the signal from the treble pickup on the Tip of a TRS lead, and feeds the bright channel. It takes the signal from the bass pickup on the TRS Ring, and feeds the normal channel.


As others have mentioned, do your homework before adjusting Rickenbacker truss rods.


The other thing that I don't think has been mentioned : older 4001's used soft fret wire, and were intended to be used with flat wound strings.

Assuming the previous owner has treated it right, you probably don't want to start using stainless steel round wound strings (afraid I can't remember which year Rickenbacker started using tougher fret wire, so ask around on the Rickenbacker club here, or Rickenbacker Forums what is safe to use).
Assuming the previous owner hasn't snipped it, the "Treble" (bridge) pickup has a capacitor that filters out low frequencies, as it's designed to safely feed a guitar amp / speaker.

That capacitor often got removed, to restore the bass frequencies, and make the bridge pickup useful in it's own right.

Even if you can't be bothered to cart an additional amp & cabinet around for live gigs, Rick-O-Sound is still great for recording.

Additionally, any 2 channel amp that allows you to bridge the channels together, should enable you to put the neck pickup through the normal channel, and the bridge pickup (with any distortion, chorus etc) through the bright channel.

Of course, you loose the biggest advantage : spatial separation. But you do at least gain a more controlled parallel effect.

I actually have an old Marshall bass amp, that features a normal channel, a bright channel, and an additional stereo input that takes the signal from the treble pickup on the Tip of a TRS lead, and feeds the bright channel. It takes the signal from the bass pickup on the TRS Ring, and feeds the normal channel.


As others have mentioned, do your homework before adjusting Rickenbacker truss rods.


The other thing that I don't think has been mentioned : older 4001's used soft fret wire, and were intended to be used with flat wound strings.

Assuming the previous owner has treated it right, you probably don't want to start using stainless steel round wound strings (afraid I can't remember which year Rickenbacker started using tougher fret wire, so ask around on the Rickenbacker club here, or Rickenbacker Forums what is safe to use).

I’m still not comfortable doing truss rod adjustments. There’s a local guitar shop in Raleigh that i take for all my work. I’m not very handy and I don’t have a beater bass to experiment with (other bass is a 5 string lakland skyline). But I trust them to do it right. Harry’s is the best.
 
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Strings. What was mentioned above. These basses were designed for the softer nickel flats in light gauges, made OEM by Maxima. The current successor to Maxima, Optima, have an RB 4440L set which is as close to the original strings as can be made with current availability of materials.

Yes, as mentioned above, the original fret wire is a little bit softer than the Dunlop hardened fret wire used in many current basses. Rotosounds will eat these frets for dessert and spit them out. The good thing is that even though the Optima RB 4440L's are expensive, they last forever.
 
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