I'm still going back and forth between a painted finish and a nice wood top.Def have to say my gloss-finished black Monarch Classic has zero finish issues.
Can you post a picture of your gloss black Monarch?
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I'm still going back and forth between a painted finish and a nice wood top.Def have to say my gloss-finished black Monarch Classic has zero finish issues.
Fodera is correct, as I wrote earlier this month. Your other basses are not particularly instructive comparanda because they employ different (probably thicker) finishes and may be older. No matter how seasoned the wood, it undergoes the most movement in its first few years as it settles into its new shape, a shape in which it is under serious tension. (Depending on string gauge, a 4-string bass guitar with a 34-inch scale length places a total string tension of 150 to 200 pounds on the neck; this increases if you go up to 5 strings and/or 35" scale.) Put colloquially, the wood is still learning that is it now a bass guitar. Yes, older wood is still impacted by environmental changes, but a new bass is all the more so as the wood adjusts to its new form. If your Foderas were new or near-new when you acquired them (I seem to recall you received a custom a couple years back), it makes sense they were particularly prone to checking.I disagree with the quality is better. The material they use for their finish just sucks. The past Fodera I had owned in the last 5 years their finish crack. They always say it is because of climate change. I disagree, because my other basses have never cracked.
I have noticed the tendency of the finish cracking. I've not seen it on Sadowsky, MTD, or builders I've considered.
It is puzzling.
The finish checking started to become a problem around 10 years ago or so when Fodera switched to the ultra thin satin finish. My 2 older Foderas (a 1997 Anthony Jackson and a 1994 Monarch) have no issues with the finish. My 2023 Monarch Deluxe checked all over the head stock and my 2026 Imperial Elite shows some minor checking around the tone control knobs.
All of my Foderas are players, so eventually some finish checking is going to be the least of the cosmetic issues they have. However my main gripe is with the response from Fodera on this which usually amounts to "something, something, climate" and a half hearted apology.
One would think with it being such a common issue that they would address it in the build process, but yet here we are.
Yeah gotta say the finish cracking on my spalted maple YY is wild. And some of the cracks are in spots where they cause a tactile issue, under my thumb by the E and near the G-string where I pull when doing slap. It's a beautiful bass, sounds great, never lets me down, but that is a serious issue which I've heard plenty of people experience.
I agree the company could better communicate why they choose to use a thin finish, and continue to do so when so many customers question it.Pretty pronounced finish checking near the bridge pickup. Why they can't seem to get this problem under control, who knows?
There is a very well known builder near me that I have discussed the finish problem with. They agreed that while the ultra thin finish feels nice and has a debatable theoretical affect on the tone, it is prone to checking and cracking.
Sure it's this one. Just a total Swiss army knife of a bass. Best passive I've ever owned by a mile.I'm still going back and forth between a painted finish and a nice wood top.
Can you post a picture of your gloss black Monarch?
It is just interesting that Fodera is the only bass brand that I had owned that the finish always cracks. Yes, I understand about the wood moves, and yes that I am in El Paso it is dry heat, even though they aren't expose to the extreme heat, all the basses including my old Alleva Coppolos with Nitro fisnish never cracker, but Fodera basses they do.Fodera is correct, as I wrote earlier this month. Your other basses are not particularly instructive comparanda because they employ different (probably thicker) finishes and may be older. No matter how seasoned the wood, it undergoes the most movement in its first few years as it settles into its new shape, a shape in which it is under serious tension. (Depending on string gauge, a 4-string bass guitar with a 34-inch scale length places a total string tension of 150 to 200 pounds on the neck; this increases if you go up to 5 strings and/or 35" scale.) Put colloquially, the wood is still learning that is it now a bass guitar. Yes, older wood is still impacted by environmental changes, but a new bass is all the more so as the wood adjusts to its new form. If your Foderas were new or near-new when you acquired them (I seem to recall you received a custom a couple years back), it makes sense they were particularly prone to checking.
Plus you are in western Texas, more precisely El Paso. That is literally the Chihuahuan Desert!!! As you surely know, this means a dry, desert climate with low humidity year-round. That's extraordinarily different from the climate in Brooklyn, New York and from wherever the wood originated (Africa, Europe, South America, Alaska, Southeast Asia, etc.). To prevent checking on a new instrument with a thin finish that was built in a higher-humidity environment, you would need to humidify aggressively, either the room or the instrument in its case.
I agree the company could better communicate why they choose to use a thin finish, and continue to do so when so many customers question it.
But I disagree it is any sort of issue or problem. It's purely cosmetic, and is direct evidence that Fodera is not using cheap, thick finishes like mass-produced instruments. Wood is a natural material. It moves, expands, and contracts with changes in relative humidity, and different species of wood (and different pieces of the same species) will move at different rates. Consequently, the finish surrounding it is also forced to move, possibly irregularly. At the end of the day, bass guitars are literal instruments--that is, they are tools. Beautiful tools that are works of art in and of themselves, but nevertheless still tools; therefore, Fodera rightly prioritizes function over form. If you want a piece of art that looks great and doesn't have the potential for checking, you can always buy a sculpture. But if you want a piece of art that can be used to produce art, well, here we are![]()
That feels baffling for a company who's famed feature and huge part of its identity is the ability to customise absolutely everything about your instrument to suit you perfectlyre the finishes
the earliest fodera basses i have were oil finishes (ca 1985-1991). oil was my preferred finish. i recall that some people at the time did not like that sound.
i think they transitioned to heavier finishes for some basses with maple tops in 1989 or so(?)
afaik, jason was the instigator of the "no oil finishes regime." i asked for an oil finish during the first years of his tenure and he said they were no longer doing them because they were more labor intensive. mind you this was 17 years ago, so i may not have this exactly correct.
after jason took over i requested that they would make the finish as light as possible. i am someone who hears a difference between a. heavier and lighter finish (not saying objectively better/worse, just different).
Are you considering going with glass black? I think that would look very nice. What fingerboards are you considering Ebony , Rosewood, maple, pray ferro, or something else?I'm still going back and forth between a painted finish and a nice wood top.
Can you post a picture of your gloss black Monarch?
Here is also another example of a black Monarch that is listed in the classifieds. It has a suptle sparkle to the finish . No affiliation. Has a nice matching headstock.I'm still going back and forth between a painted finish and a nice wood top.
Can you post a picture of your gloss black Monarch?
Black is always a good option, so I'm interested to see how it looks on an instrument. The fingerboard will be Pau Ferro.Are you considering going with glass black? I think that would look very nice. What fingerboards are you considering Ebony , Rosewood, maple, pray ferro, or something else?


I usually don't care for fancy woods but that is beautiful !!Black is always a good option, so I'm interested to see how it looks on an instrument. The fingerboard will be Pau Ferro.
The primary body color I have in mind is a fiery red/orange, whether wood or paint.
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Nah, they need to fix this problem.I've owned 8 Foderas and haven't had one with a finish crack. Sorry to hear about all the ones that do though! At the end of the day I might be leaning with the argument that yes it is a shame on something so expensive, but does it play a part in how incredible these basses sound?
My imperial elite sat in the box for 72 hours. 3 months later is when I noticed finish checking near the control knobs.I wonder if people who have finish cracks didn't let their instrument sit in the box for 24 hours before opening it? It was a loooonng 24 hours for me.
You raise a good point about the relationship between cost and quality, and the correlating expectations of customers. I think you are spot-on in regard to a motorcycle, but I don't think it extends to finish checking on a Fodera.Nah, they need to fix this problem.
My last Fodera costs more than the last new motorcycle I bought. A scratch on my new bike doesn't affect how it rides and handles, but yet I wouldn't accept it anymore than Fodera customers should accept a common issue with the finishes.
I'll be sticking to older Foderas and will not be ordering another new one until they assure everyone that this has been handled.