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1st Bass Design - needs criticism

I put together a list of parts that I would need for this bass from Stew-Mac, and it totaled to $266.56 using jazz pups and with no wood included. I figure if I spend $100 on wood, then I'm in good shape. But yes, I think I might stick to the MM Bart's w/ preamp, so that'll probably be at least $50 more.

Hm...it'd be nice if I could get Hambone or Budman in here to help me get started...hehe.

-Josh
 
Okay, here's an updated, better quality shot of my drawring.

jikdx4.gif


In case you're wondering, it's hard to make a scaled drawing on PowerPoint...hehehe.

-Josh
 
I'm new to this site, but since I'm building my first bass at the moment I've been reading many of the posts in this forum. I haven't read them all, of course... so bear with me if this concept has already been discussed.
My proposal to you is that, should you decide to use pickup-integral bridges such as the lightwave, that you allow the fretboard to continue up the bass all the way to the bridge. I had actually considered adding a piece of ebony to the top of my 24-fret bass, between the pickup and bridge, so that I could play fretless in high registers for "effect", but I am not at all sure whether this would work, considering that the string will actually be vibrating BEHIND the pickup (not to mention that depressing the string to the "fretless" section of fingerboard might cause the bass to fret out in the fretted main section). However, placing the pickup(s) at the bridge (or in it) would allow an "uninterrupted" version to work in a fretless. I'm a little surprised I haven't seen this design in any bass yet, other than the obvious aversion most bassists feel about playing directly above the fretboard (less space for fingertips). Any thoughts?
 
I did think of that, DoubleSix, and it's funny you might bring that idea up. I actually did at a fingerboard "extension" to my Peavey Milestone III. What I did was radiused a piece of poplar (not the best wood choice, I know...but it was what I had around) to fit the end of the fingerboard, and gluded it to the body. Not a very brilliant or ingenious idea, but I gained 36 "frets" (This bass was defretted). It plays fine except for the precise area where the two join, which isn't a big deal to me, because the lower horn gets in the way to play that high, anyway. Anyway, that took a 20 fret bass up to 26. On this bass, however, I think I might draw the line at 36. I was thinking maybe I could use a soapbar/piezo configuration, but I wouldn't have a clue how to wire that. Thanks for the thoughts everybody.

-Josh