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2x10 cabinet, 8 Ohms - DIY?

vdub75

vdub75

Feb 15, 2013
1,115
1,702
Celle/Germany
#1
Guys, I wanna build and 8 ohms 2x10 cabinet that can go loud enough for small gigs. I have a hartke tp210 with eminence beta 10's wired to 16 ohms that sounds good but doesn't give me the punch I want. It'S a small sealed cab, only 50 ltrs / 1,75 cu ft.

I have a Hartke Transporter 1x15 I wanna use together with the 210 for now, if it works out nice I'm gonna save for a second 210 and stack vertically. My head is a fender rumble 350, I use a sansamp vt all the time in my band. I like ounchy, not ultra low bass sound.

I thought about external dimensions of approx. 24 x 18 x 15 (61 x 45 x 38 cm) so using 12 or 15 mm birch ply and the baffle set back 1' /2,5 cm I have an internal volume of approx 75 ltrs / 2,65 cu ft

What speakers can I use? I thought about eminence delta 10b, good power handling, price is okay, weight is okay.

Should I go sealed or ported?
 
#6
Not a wide range of choices in 4 or 16ohm 10's. There's Eminence bp-102 and delta. Faitals 10fe200. Maybe something good from Dayton/Partsexpress. Maybe poke around MCM electronics too, see what you find.
 
#9
vdub75 said:
my 16 ohm 210 doesn't go even a bit loud enough for rehearsal. maybe the betas are not effecient enough?
Click to expand...
Not the most efficient but the don't suck. A 210 can only do so much. If you have a good 150 watts or so to send them, they're not going to get much louder in the bass end with more power. Mids and highs will still get louder.

I have a pair of beta 10's. I'd consider them "good", but again, can only do so much and throwing more power at them won't help.

Again, I'd try porting your current cab to beef up the lowend and see what you think.
 
#11
feet1.jpeg


Home Depot. $3-$4. Clears those type of handle.
 
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#12
Run a WinISD model with the 4ohm FaitalPro 10FE200 in a ported enclosure and compare it to your Betas in a ported enclosure.

For that matter, load up your current Beta loaded cab in it's sealed form, then overlay the same cab in ported form trying tunings anywhere from 40 to 55hz to see what you could gain by porting your current box.
 
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#14
vdub75 said:
so the faitals would be a bit louder but not that even a frequency curve. I compared beta against delta and they were really losing... dang. That surprised me!View attachment 475956
Click to expand...
Make sure you got the 4ohm version of the Faital. It's better suited for ported boxes and is very different in spec than the 8ohm version of the same driver. The 8ohm is better suited for sealed.

Some combination of lower tuning/larger box will bring those humps down in the lowend if you want to. A little lift there can help it sound fat. Too much can get boomy/muddy, etc.

Make sure to compare max power and max spl charts to see what you can really get with xmax limits.

Compare the response charts on the drivers datasheets to compare topend performance. That Faital likely bright enough for a lot of us to not have to mess with filters/tweeters, etc.
 
#15
just got the answer from fender germany, they don't sell the rumble speakers separately.

I still don't know how to read those winISD graphs and what they tell me! can you explain that to me? I can select the driver(s), size of enclosure and tuning, port size and diameter and it tells me the port length. But how exactly do I decide what is good for my cabinet needs and what isn't
 
#16
The way I play around to see how things would work in my cabs (or my ideas for cabs) is as follows (probably there is an easier way).

1. You need the exact dimensions of the cab in question, including the exact thickness of the material used (ply, birch, whatever).

2. You need the parameters of each driver that you are thinking of using.

3. One by one, you create a cab designed around each of the drivers you have the parameters for, using the exact dimensions from point 1.

4. Each of the designs you create, you can play around with tuning/ports, to see the difference in response with or without the porting.

5. You take into consideration the price of the drivers vs the results, and decide which of the designs is closest to your specific needs.


Hope this helps.
 
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#17
Also, if you have issues reading the graph, then basically you need to look for a graph with the flattest line across the widest space possible. The more the graph stays flat towards the left, the lower your cab will go, the more towards the right, the higher. Try to avoid bumps in the lines, as this will mean that the cab will produce those specific frequencies louder than the rest.
 
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#19
vdub75 said:
but how do I know which speaker goes loud and which doesn't? I wand a punchy tone to compete with my 15 (close to the same cone area 210 vs. 115 so that should be possible?)
Click to expand...

See your initial direction is flawed. You are trying to design a cab, that sounds good with a different one, with out knowing what you are trying to add to the sound you currently have. And you have no idea how they will work together until after you have spent the money.

It is a dead end trying to pair a puncy upper mid 210 to pair with your 115. By the time you put the work in to design, you will probably end up with a 210 that outperforms your 115 in the lows.
 
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