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2x15 or 6x10?

OK, that makes a bit of sense. I guess now my only question would be this: Wouldn't the two sources playing the same frequency (note) just make that note more audible? Or is it that the two waves collide and basically destroy each other? Thanks for the help!

The additional source will make the sound louder, so in a lot of cases it will sound better as we generally equate louder to better. But if you are out in the room this may not be the case. Matching cabs will be more consistent out in the room, not on stage where you are enjoying a near field bass boost of the second speaker.
 
The best "control" that you might be able to experience would be to utilize a bi-amp situation (such as an LH1000 from Hartke). You could then pump one cab with channel A, the other with channel B . . .
You might be surprized at how each "duck" might benefit from the use of the "balance" knob for differential/potential of each cab . . .
"Best of both worlds" isn't the definition that most would use to describe a GK 700RBII powering a 410 AND a 115 - isn't GK's description of this "bi-amp" as actually a frequency crossover kinda' deal?

Yes, the horn and woofer in the same cabinet receive different signals.
 
It sounds like you are saying that the speaker is irrelevant and the cabinet is the only thing that matters.

No!!! Sorry, I must not have been very clear in my post...I think every part is relevant. And if I did think the speakers were not relevant, I sure wouldn't put such expensive ones in our cabs!

The problem is that great cab design is much more complex than most us of us have considered, so the context I was speaking from is just that the mere size of the speakers involved doesn't determine what the cab will sound like.

Not to mention the oversimplification of "Which sounds better, 10', 12's or 15's?" There are so many different types and brands built for many different applications, it's just not a great starting point to help someone select the best cab for their situation.

Does that clear anything up? I'm still on my first cup of coffee :)
 
Yes speakers do sound different due to their design parameters, and some 10"s can go lower than some 15"s - its about design. At its basic basics, a speaker with a heavier cone will have lower resonance and handle lower notes than a lighter cone - but you'll lose volume (efficiency) Don't now have a go guys - I know there's a lot more, but that's the base basics.

So you could build a cab with all 10"s or a pair of 15"s - its the speaker design that will determine which goes lower or/ and louder. But the cab also has an effect and can work with the speaker or against it to 'frame' the function of the chassis. Most of what goes on in the commercial World is about compromise to get a cab that doesn't become a pain for the distributors to handle - ie too big, too heavy, too expensive, too difficult to build. This approach gives us a wash of smallish boxes with or without ports. When was the last time you saw a bass scoop cab on sale?

The contra market approach is like BFs cabs with recommended chassis's that are way more efficient (like twice as loud for the same wattage) but generally bigger dimensions, more complicated to build, and would there fore be way too expensive to seem competitive to the general marketplace. And don't forget that 95% of the market is beginners, intermediates, parent buyers, and schools - they all buy at price points.

Bottom line is, if you are a serious / pro player you'll probably go for the expensive end and / or get something built for you like Bill F's cabs with high end drivers like the 3015s.