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4-Ohm load vs. 8-Ohm load - benefits to amp?

AMPLIFIER LOADS
Excerpted from TalkBass
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=683677


KJung:
Tube amps… … have output transformers, and must be matched to the impedance of the cab or cabs. This is either done with a switch or more typically, multiple speaker outputs for different cabinet impedance.... i.e, an 8ohm tap, a 4ohm tap and a 2ohm tap. The power output is identical each different impedance.

A solid state amp (regardlless of topology... class D, class A/B, whatever) will put out more power the lower the impedance of the cab or cabs. Many have a limit of 4ohms, below which the cooling system cannot keep up with the heat generated, among other things. Some can go all the way down to 2ohms, but the really good designs (like Genz and Mesa) have a switch that, I believe reduces the voltage or something (fewer windings on the power transformer or something of the sort) so that the heat and power and THD stay relatively close to 4ohm operation when driving a 2ohm load. I think that sort of switch is a bit similar to the output transformer thing on tube amps.

There is little reason to run a solid state head at 8ohms that is engineered to have good specs and safe operation (i.e., adequate cooling and THD) at 4ohms. The additional power will add headroom and a bit of volume if the cab can make use of it (a little 112, not so much, a big 410, sure). Of course, if you have some monster amp that puts out 700 watts at 8ohms, then very few cabs could benefit from more power than that. However, going from 300 to 500 into a big 410 or 212... you might really notice it... more open low end, less power amp compression, a bit more volume.

Mid Life Crisis:
Some formulas to keep in mind:
Wattage (power) = Current times Voltage
Voltage = Current times impedance
So another way to look at Wattage is:
Wattage = Current squared times impedance.

What all this means is that if you want to pump Power through a load (speaker in this case) the best way to do it is to reduce the impedance of the load. For example, if you have a voltage drop across a speaker of 16 volts (just a number that divides nicely) you could pump 2 amps through 8 ohms or you could pump 4 amps through 4 ohms. The difference in power comes in because the current is squared, so for the first, the power is 2 times 2 (current squared), times 8 or 32 watts. The second is 4 times 4 (current squared) times 4 or 64 watts. This all assumes that the amp is designed to provide high current.
Running a high current amp at a higher impedance will reduce the amount of current it delivers. The problem is that you are taking it out of its design range, making it work inefficiently, which is not optimum conditions.

Dmusic148:
A very simple way to think of it: placing a piece of nice copper wire across your amp's output(also known as a Short Circuit) would be a zero Ohm load. This will allow lots and lots of current to flow, since there is zero resistance. But all that current will get your amp really hot really fast. Just like if you put a piece of wire across a 9 v battery- the battery gets hot, because it's flowing the maximum amount of current it possibly can. See? On the other hand, an impedance of, say 16Ohms across your amp, makes it work much less hard, because the current that can flow is a lot less that with the zero Ohm load. Lower impedance loads demand more current from the amp. The amp obeys the load, if you will. This is regarding SS amps. Tube amps are different.

AgedHorse:
Everybody keeps mentioning stress that a lower (say 4 ohm) impedance load places on an amp but this is CURRENT stress, and are completely neglecting the VOLTAGE stress that an equiv. powered amp into a higher impedance load (say 8 ohm).

Amps have 2 different but equally concerning stresses that must be considered.

1. Current stresses are those due to current flow and will be higher in an amp driving lower impedance loads.

2. Voltage stresses are those due to the higher voltages required to deliver the same power into a higher impedance load.

At high power, voltage issues can become quite real and require different design techniques to maintain reliability. This generally adds more to the cost of the circuitry than delivering a simplar power level into a lower impedance load. Additionally, the protection circuits must consider the greater potential for damage due to a load fault with high supply rail voltages, and the effects of "safe operating area" under such faults.

A properly designed amp will be equally reliable and perform equally well under any of these conditions regardless of load impedance provided the amp was designed for that load.
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SactoBass:
If you plug an 8 ohm (higher resistance) speaker load into a 2 ohm tap on a tube amp, nothing bad will happen. You just won't "realize" (get) the full power output of the amp due to the higher resistance of the cab.

If you plug a 2 ohm (lower resistance) speaker load into an 8 ohm tap, it will overhead the transformer (that's bad).

Think of resistance as allowing power to flow. Higher impedance (higher ohm) cabs, like 8 ohms for example, won't let as much power come out of the amp. It "resists" it more. A lower impedance (lower ohm) cab, like 4 ohms for example, has less resistance, and therefore allows more power to flow out of the amp. You need SOME resistance, otherwise too much power will flow out of the amp and burn the amp up. That's why, if you run a pair of 4 ohm cabs (which results in a 2 ohm speaker load), you need to make sure your amp is rated to go down to a 2 ohm load.

So, if you want to maximize power coming out of a tube amp, match the speaker load impedance with the ohmage of the amp's tap.
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RBonner:
Sorry Sacto, incorrect.

The output transformer is an impedance matching device. It matches a high impedance the tube out load impedance to the low impedance of the speakers.

Putting the wrong speaker on a toob amp reflects the incorrect image to the tubes, creating a mismatch, which dissipates too much power in the tube plates and also creates a situation of too high load, a high voltage situation on the primary toob side and can arc the transformer. That’s why you never disconnect the speaker on a toob amp.
 
Thanks, unfortunatly JimmyM has the coolest by popular vote, hahahahaha.
de-evolution is real, bob. get it while it's hot!

btw, i've done both...i've run cabs in svt's at 8 ohms and a b-15 tapped for two 8 ohm cabs at 4 ohms out of one input, and nothing bad has happened to any of them. at least nothing bad happened that day. there is the idea put out there by some in the know that output transformers can deal with pretty much any load as long as it never sees no load. i've also been told that it's volume dependent and you can blow a transformer or tubes eventually if you try to crank it hard for too long.

of course that was with rented stuff, and i'd never do it with my own amps ;)
 
Cool, so was the chicken 8 ohms or 4?
lol.gif
You guys are too much; I'm glad I joined!


Regarding the OP's inquiry, I wonder if he got the answer to his original question.
I think so; there's lots of good info here. But, just to make the situation a little more clear:

I'm about to purchase a new rig. The amp can feed 300W (x2) into 8 Ohms, and 440W (x2) into 4 Ohms. It has a tube pre-amp, and a solid-state power-amp.

I will only be getting 2 cabinets, and I know I won't need to expand. So the question basically came from, "Should I get 4- or 8-Ohm cabs? I wonder if it makes any difference to the amp." (I've been playing a very similar set-up for 10 years with 8-Ohm cabs, and began to wonder if 4-Ohms cabs would be better for the new rig.)

The cabs themselves are rated at 350W RMS and 400W RMS, respectively, so their combined power handling is 750W RMS.

Having a little extra power and headroom with a 4-Ohm set-up is appealing, but the comments about tighter lows into 8-Ohms makes me think that would be best. ...that, and the fact that (in 4-Ohms) I would be running 880W into cabs that can only handle 750W.

Thanks, and any further insights are certainly welcome! This new rig should last me quite a while, so I want to make the "right" choice.

~esa
 
lol.gif
You guys are too much; I'm glad I joined!


I think so; there's lots of good info here. But, just to make the situation a little more clear:

I'm about to purchase a new rig. The amp can feed 300W (x2) into 8 Ohms, and 440W (x2) into 4 Ohms. It has a tube pre-amp, and a solid-state power-amp.

I will only be getting 2 cabinets, and I know I won't need to expand. So the question basically came from, "Should I get 4- or 8-Ohm cabs? I wonder if it makes any difference to the amp." (I've been playing a very similar set-up for 10 years with 8-Ohm cabs, and began to wonder if 4-Ohms cabs would be better for the new rig.)

The cabs themselves are rated at 350W RMS and 400W RMS, respectively, so their combined power handling is 750W RMS.

Having a little extra power and headroom with a 4-Ohm set-up is appealing, but the comments about tighter lows into 8-Ohms makes me think that would be best. ...that, and the fact that (in 4-Ohms) I would be running 880W into cabs that can only handle 750W.

Thanks, and any further insights are certainly welcome! This new rig should last me quite a while, so I want to make the "right" choice.

~esa

First.... the 'tighter low end' at 8ohms based on damping factor is incorrect. Damping factor has become a totally zero issue with modern amplifiers. I don't doubt there is a difference in the damping factor, but its a difference that meaningless given the great damping factor specs of today's amps. Manufacturers don't even list that in spec's any more. Absolute zero issue from everything I've read, and from the EE's who work for amp companies who post regularly on the site.

Second, you can pretty much ignore cabinet power ratings, which is at best a loose guide to maximum power. 100 watts either way is a zero issue.

So, you have a dual mono head that you are going to run in dual mono (non bridged mode) from what I understand.

Choosing the impedance of the cabs is IMO based on two things:

1) Size of the cabs/number of drivers. Two 112's or Two 110's, you probably won't notice any difference unless they are stupid low SPL (Acme or whatever). Two 210's or 212's or 410's, the added wattage of getting these cabs in 4ohms should be noticable... a little more volume, more open low end, less compression.

2) Future amp purchases. Having two 4ohm cabs limits you to either a dual mono amp, or a mono amp that is capable of safely operation at 2ohms. That eliminates 2/3rd's of the amps out there if you decide you want to try something different. So, two 8ohm cabs, especially if they are small, would give you some more options.
 
+1 to Kjung's response above.

Only thing I would add to the response is that the difference between the 8 ohm and 4 ohm cab in YOUR situation will be very negligable.

Your output ratings of 300 watts @ 8 ohms and 440 watts @ 4 ohms shows your amp gains less than 50% from 8 to 4 ohms. That translates into around 1.5 db increase which can barely be heard.

Based on that, I would go with 8 ohm cabs for the reasons of future amp purchases.
 
<...>Choosing the impedance of the cabs is IMO based on two things:

1) Size of the cabs/number of drivers. Two 112's or Two 110's, you probably won't notice any difference unless they are stupid low SPL (Acme or whatever). Two 210's or 212's or 410's, the added wattage of getting these cabs in 4ohms should be noticable... a little more volume, more open low end, less compression. <...>

Noticable? Are you sure about that?

The way I see it, if you take a couple 210/212/410s at 8 ohms, run them up to whatever your cap is, the SPL is gonna be 125-130 dB, say.

Now switch to lower impedance. Yeah you get more power from the amp. But now your SPL will be 127-132 dB, say.

First, that's insanely loud (pain, permanent hearing damage, tsunami dangers). Second, I don't think you can detect it, much less appreciate it. Just makes the blood run faster thru the ear canal.
 
Noticable? Are you sure about that?

The way I see it, if you take a couple 210/212/410s at 8 ohms, run them up to whatever your cap is, the SPL is gonna be 125-130 dB, say.

Now switch to lower impedance. Yeah you get more power from the amp. But now your SPL will be 127-132 dB, say.

First, that's insanely loud (pain, permanent hearing damage, tsunami dangers). Second, I don't think you can detect it, much less appreciate it. Just makes the blood run faster thru the ear canal.

As I've posted quite a number of times, it depends on the number of drivers, the cab SPL, and the absolute power level.

Starting out with a 112 and an amp that puts out 700 watts into 8ohms... obviously, zero impact going to 4.

Starting out with a moderate SPL, large 410 cab and an amp that only puts out 300 watts into 8ohms, and the difference can literally be life changing. A bit louder, less compressed, more open low end, and often the difference between frustrating 'compression' and not quite enough ooomph later in the night (especially if you use slap style and pound those peaks into your system) and a nice, open, non compressed, deeper tone and a couple more db's.

This is not a 'black and white' thing... it depends.

In my many A-B's of an Epi410UL (one 4ohm and one 8ohm) with lower powered micro heads, it is a BIG, noticable difference when you start to really push.
 
...the 'tighter low end' at 8ohms based on damping factor is incorrect.
Good to know; thanks.

...you can pretty much ignore cabinet power ratings, which is at best a loose guide to maximum power. 100 watts either way is a zero issue.
So, there's no problem with putting 440W into a cabinet rated at 350W?

So, you have a dual mono head that you are going to run in dual mono (non bridged mode) from what I understand.
Exactly.

Two 210's or 212's or 410's, the added wattage of getting these cabs in 4ohms should be noticable... a little more volume, more open low end, less compression.
That sounds tasty.

Having two 4ohm cabs limits you to either a dual mono amp, or a mono amp that is capable of safely operation at 2ohms.
[...]
...two 8ohm cabs, especially if they are small, would give you some more options.
...the difference between the 8 ohm and 4 ohm cab in YOUR situation will be very negligable.
...around 1.5 db increase which can barely be heard.
[...]
Based on that, I would go with 8 ohm cabs for the reasons of future amp purchases.

Ah, the crux of my dilemma:
"A little more volume, more open low end, less compression" versus "more options".

Which is why I was wondering, in the first place, if any of this made any difference to the performance of the amp. I was hoping there would be a solution in that answer, but it looks like it comes down to personal preference.

...it depends on the number of drivers, the cab SPL, and the absolute power level.
Sorry; I should have clarified this earlier.

The cabs are 115 and 210. The SPL of each is 103dB @ 1W1M. The 115 has the 400W rating, and the 210 has the 350W rating. I don't know what their "absolute power level" might be.

A bit louder, less compressed, more open low end, and often the difference between frustrating 'compression' and not quite enough ooomph later in the night (especially if you use slap style and pound those peaks into your system) and a nice, open, non compressed, deeper tone and a couple more db's.
Man! You make it sound so good!
cloud9.gif

No slapping involved, though. This rig is for my fretless.

Thanks a lot guys; you're really helping me suss this all out.


~esa
 
as my own little aside to the ohm debate, as far as options down the road - last time i was shopping, every head that i was actually interested in power-wise (500+) was capable of 2 ohm operation. It's becoming more commonplace than 1/3, i'd say closer to 1/2 - especially if you're going to upgrade from a 450 watt amp to something higher.

Maybe I got lucky in what I was looking at, i dunno, but i had no problem finding 2-ohm capable heads for my cabinets...
 
Did I miss where he said small cabinets? I might have...but I don't think you've actually said how big they are?

How big are they?
Post #33. ;)
The cabs are 115 and 210.
The SPL of each is 103dB @ 1W1M.
The 115 has the 400W rating, and the 210 has the 350W rating.


Here's another question for all you tech-gurus:
If one cab has an SPL rating of 103dB, and another cab has an SPL rating of 100dB, is there an audible difference between the two (through the same amp)?


Thanks!

~esa
 
Here's another question for all you tech-gurus:
If one cab has an SPL rating of 103dB, and another cab has an SPL rating of 100dB, is there an audible difference between the two (through the same amp)?

Theoretically, yes, as 3dB is slightly louder. However, bass cabinet ratings are far from consistent (or reliable) from brand to brand, so no firm conclusion can be drawn from the sensitivity specification alone.
 
Post #33. ;)


Here's another question for all you tech-gurus:
If one cab has an SPL rating of 103dB, and another cab has an SPL rating of 100dB, is there an audible difference between the two (through the same amp)?


Thanks!

~esa

Perhaps the attached spreadsheet will make this a little easier to understand.
 

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