Double Bass 500/1 style bridge question

[reep]

One of my basses (a Hofner 500/1 clone) which has a non-adjustable bridge sounds slightly sharp on the G string at the 7th fret. Looking at the bridge, it appears as if the saddle for that string is farther forward. From my past experience intonating guitars, I'm accustomed to seeing the saddle positions with the G string further back than the high E and B strings, and a similar pattern on the lowest three strings. Is there any chance this is correct, or is this simply copying the Hofner bridge and has a built-in problem? I remember reading somewhere that McCartney retired his violin bass for a while and started using the 4001 because he was dissatisfied with the Hofner's intonation. Next question: Is there anything aftermarket suitable for this application that has adjustable saddles?

 

[Steven Ayres]

I was under the impression that the saddles in this bridge are adjustable, by pulling from one slot and pressing into another. Am I wrong? This design was also used on Hofner's jazz guitars.

 

[GretschWretch]

Steven is correct. Sometimes, once removed, the fretwire saddle just does not want to go into the new slot.

 

[reep]

Thanks for the advice, guys. I appreciate it.

 

[Michael Eisenman]

You can also move the entire bridge a bit, if you’re talking about the one pictured in the OP.

BTW, are you aware that you’re on the DB side of TB? (Not that we’re unable to answer your question.)

 

[reep]

You can also move the entire bridge a bit, if you’re talking about the one pictured in the OP. BTW, are you aware that you’re on the DB side of TB? (Not that we’re unable to answer your question.)

I hadn't realized I was posting in the wrong spot....I'm not that familiar with the forum and it didn't occur to me that there'd be a separate DB forum. Mod: Feel free to move this thread if appropriate.

Anyway, I do appreciate the advice. To be honest, I'm not even sure if the bridge is floating....I've avoided having all the strings off at the same time because the feel is so perfect I didn't want to disturb it. I don't know if moving the bridge is the approach I want to take - That's going throw other strings intonation (which is great right now) out of wack, and there are so few alternate saddle positions that it would be a miracle if i adjusted the other saddles and didn't throw something else irretrievably out of whack. When I was cruising eBay this morning I found a tune-o-matic that's fully adjustable and designed to sit on the rosewood pedestal. If I can find out the stud distance and it'll drop into my bridge studs, I'm probably a player for one..

 

[Michael Eisenman]

It is a floating bridge—as on a violin or DB—and can be moved slightly. Try moving it a bit until the G string is intonated properly (distance from nut to 12th fret = distance from 12th to saddle should get you started), and the other strings might be good, too. Then you can worry about moving the saddles for the lower strings, if necessary.

 

[reep]

I haven't had a chance to pursue this because I'm busy getting ready for my new band's first booking tonight. I'll take a look at this when things are back to normal. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Mannyinnewyork]

It’s a mysterious and much misunderstood art form (intonation on a Hofner) like alchemy . I’ve had a few Hofners, still have two, and I find “Close enough” mindset works best for me. The bridge is crap and I never found a replacement that 1) worked better than stock and 2) had an esthetic appeal. I’ve made recordings with mine and they sound great. I would dial it in as best I could or go get it set up by a pro. I would not agonize over it. Play and enjoy.

 

[GypsyBilly]

Mark the position of the bridge with painter's tape. Use a tuning meter to check the intonation of each string; if they are all truly correct except for G, then loosen the G and just pull that saddle and move it a space (or two) farther from the nut if the 12th fret G is sharp. If the 12th fret G is flat, then pivot the treble (G) side of the bridge closer to the nut while keeping the E saddle in the same location. The A and D may be fine, or you may need to back up the D saddle after the pivot - but it might not be necessary.

 

[Slapndbayass]

I've seen a Hagstrom 60's metal arch type bridge used on a Hofner but basically it's the same banana dealing with anything semi acoustic. The more mass placed on the top, it will change the sound so YMMV. And it's an old technology, a violin carved type instrument, that asking for 21st century response out of a centuries old system is asking too much.

If you can't get the bass to play in tune everywhere, then you need to compensate with your fingers and bend the note in tune wherever it's out. Or try changing the offending string, might get lucky.

Taking the bass to a pro might get a better result for them to align the bridge.

You could get a tune-o-matic bridge and adapt it to a wood base.

You would have to compensate for the radius issue though so the more things change the more they remain the same.

 

[reep]

The tune-o-matic's an interesting idea. The only one I found on eBay appeared to be too wide because of the string spread. If you know of another brand that would be narrow enough for a violin bass, I'd be grateful for any information.

Thanks for all the responses to my question.

 

[Slapndbayass]

You may try, get blank saddles and re-cut the string guides for the tune-o-matic. No matter, it will be a custom approach.

 

[Michael Eisenman]

Here is a good video on changing strings and intonating a Höfner:

 

[reep]

Thanks, Michael. Great video.