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'72 Fender pbass truss rod issue

Thanks, coalbass for the additional info. And for the pic.

I have looked at the neck and talked to the original repair tech (not the luthier we took it to). I found that the truss rod channel is indeed curved as you would expect, and the truss does have a proper bow. It just slides out fairly easily (but perhaps not as easily as I initially understood). So, not sure what the luthier was referring to... I'm gonna give him the benefit of the doubt, and say that I just misunderstood.

I think what you are saying is exactly what has happened... the truss rod nut had become seized, and trying to back it out broke the attachment at the anchor.

The better news is that we are able to easily screw the rod in and out of the anchor repeatedly. (The truss rod nut was still seized, so we were able to use it to turn the rod.) So, there -may- be the possibility of using loctite and just screwing it into the anchor without peeling off the piece of fretboard. We'll see. Haven't tried it yet, and wanted to wait and see before I reported.

One issue that may make it difficult is that when we got the stuck truss rod nut loose, we found that it had only been screwed onto the truss rod by a few threads. So, not enough room to get a locking nut on it so it won't spin when we now try to screw into the anchor. Not sure why the rod is so short... but it creates some additional difficulties. We may have to fabricate a longer rod. That in itself is not difficult, but the new threads probably risks the ability to screw into the anchor. Again... we'll see.
 
Very interesting additional facts. Hoping you can come up with a way to resecure it in the anchor without having to remove the piece of fingerboard!
I wonder if it would be possible to cut a slot in the end of the truss rod so you could use a flat blade screwdriver to thread the rod into the anchor.
 
That's a great thought. It screws into the anchor pretty easily, so wouldn't require a lot of torque.
My only concern is that because the truss rod seems so short, is there any worry that it screws in so far that I then can't get the nut back on it. But maybe I'm overthinking it...
 
Come on, now that you know the rod will screw into the anchor easily you have a simple fix. Put BLUE Loctite on the adjusting nut and let it cure for a day or so. Now screw the trussrod into the anchor with RED Loctite on that end like I already suggested and let it cure. Now you can put a screwdriver on the nut and remove it. Simple fix for a couple bucks. :cigar:

EDIT: Many auto parts stores sell tiny packets, about the size of a fast food salt or pepper packets, of Loctite in various colors.
 
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Ha. Sometimes the simplest things elude me. Thanks!

Once you have the nut off, after seating the rod, put a small, small, smaller than small, dab of Neverseize into the nut. The blue Loctite will insure the nut turns with some resistance and the Neverseize will ensure it never gets stuck again.

I was a master sergeant in the army. My job was to make my soldiers jobs easier so they could accomplish more, or have have more free time, depending on the workload. I was a problem solver/troubleshooter.
 
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Once you have the nut off, after seating the rod, put a small, small, smaller than small, dab of Neverseize into the nut. The blue Loctite will insure the nut turns with some resistance and the Neverseize will ensure it never gets stuck again.

I was a master sergeant in the army. My job was to make my soldiers jobs easier so they could accomplish more, or have have more free time, depending on the workload. I was a problem solver/troubleshooter.
Great plan. I’ll add that just to be sure, when you adjust the rod after this, flex the neck back to take the load off the rod so the nut turns easily to protect your repair from any torque being transferred through the rod. Just an extra measure of security. I know red lock tite holds hard but a simple extra step to add some assurance.
 
Yep. That's probably good advice whenever doing a truss rod adjustment. Maybe a bit less important on this style bass, as you have to take the neck off to adjust, and wouldn't be under tension... but still good practice. Thanks!