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750 Watt head... how "loud" or powerful is it?

Did not mean for this to get into personalities, etc.

I think the thread has run its course. Sorry to those (including JimmyM) if my 'trying to provide more accurate info' to the OP was a bit heavy handed.:)

Not a problem Ken. This is the problem with the internet sometimes. You just can't tell the way a question, statement, or response is presented or said. No hard feelings sir. :bassist:
 
This is one of the major problems with TB and it's not our fault. Amps are marketed and sold on power in the same way cars are sold on horsepower, like it's the single most important thing. It can be important, but usually it's not even in the top 5 most important things.

We sit and talk about watts all day and and they're not really that important and even if they were as has been mentioned there are so many other variables that it's a pointless minefield.

But then, what would we talk about on a bass forum? ;)
 
The 1001RB-II is rated @ 700 watts @ 4 ohms - not 750 watts (reckon by the wattage of the main or woofer amp - not the combined wattage, including the integrated tweeter amp). Same deal with the 700RB-II: Its rating is 480 watts @ 4 ohms - not 530 watts.

Either of those two RB amps, with either a single 8-ohm GK Neo 2x12 cab, or two of them, makes one fine rock rig - at one of the most competitive price points anywhere. If they haven't both become classics by now, they soon will be.

The 700RB-II will allow you to drive the power stage harder, at any given volume point, in order to yield a little dirtier, snarlier, growlier tone - but won't offer as much headroom. The 1001RB-II stays cleaner - but offers more headroom. Both of 'em get LOUD. Really loud. :eek:

Yep. I have a 700RB II with an 8-ohm Neo 2x12. Thus, the head is pushing 320W and that puppy is more than loud enough for any club I've played around Boston. For something bigger, I have an 8-ohm 1x12 that I run in parallel w/ the 2x12 which splits the full 480W between the two cabs.
 
The difference between 450 and 700 watts would only be noticeable if the amps are pushed to, or near, their limits.

I think most bass players would be surprised at how little power they're actually using after the attack phase of the envelope (which only lasts a few milliseconds) has passed. I laugh when I read/hear a bass player talk about needing huge power "for the headroom", then goes on to add that he/she uses a 1- or 2- knob compressor to squash the attack.
 
The difference between 450 and 700 watts would only be noticeable if the amps are pushed to, or near, their limits.

I think most bass players would be surprised at how little power they're actually using after the attack phase of the envelope (which only lasts a few milliseconds) has passed. I laugh when I read/hear a bass player talk about needing huge power "for the headroom", then goes on to add that he/she uses a 1- or 2- knob compressor to squash the attack.
Ya, really!
 
The difference between 450 and 700 watts would only be noticeable if the amps are pushed to, or near, their limits.

I think most bass players would be surprised at how little power they're actually using after the attack phase of the envelope (which only lasts a few milliseconds) has passed. I laugh when I read/hear a bass player talk about needing huge power "for the headroom", then goes on to add that he/she uses a 1- or 2- knob compressor to squash the attack.

Come on Bill you gotta have something for that compressor to do after spending the cash ;)
 
Did not mean for this to get into personalities, etc.

I think the thread has run its course. Sorry to those (including JimmyM) if my 'trying to provide more accurate info' to the OP was a bit heavy handed.:)
Just admit that even though we have polar opposite tastes that I'm a genius and all is forgiven ;)
 
OK, OP---------just get the 700 watter and don't look back. Match it up to the GK cab(s)rated for it and that deliver the tone you like best and be happy. Consider the first bucks you gig-make as getting your dough back from not getting the less costly 480 watter.

Will you have a great rig..Yes. Will the amp size satisfy your bass manliness...Yes.

Then save some bucks and get the best practice amp you can (Not a Fender Rumble, please) on the side.
 
Again, trying to answer his question regarding if the higher powered model is 'louder' than the lower power model. I did not see in his post that he has chosen a cab yet, so again, trying to provide information regarding the unfortunate real answer that 'it depends, based on the cabinet you eventually choose'. No free lunch, since there is more weight and size and money involved.

If he chooses a relatively high efficiency, tightly voiced 4ohm 410, the answer is most likely 'don't waste your money on the heavier, higher powered unit, it will matter very little'. If he chooses a deeply voiced 8ohm 412 cab, the answer is 'ABSOLUTELY choose the higher powered head etc., etc., etc.:p

Again, trying to put some of the other posts in context on this thread, where posters are saing 'well, I have a 300 watt amp and only run the master on 3 and it is plenty!. It can be helpful (I hope) for others and also those who post that kind of stuff to have a basic understanding of why that sort of information can be quite misleading to an OP who is trying to figure this out and has a limited amount of funds and a limited choice of options. Many posters don't really understand this stuff, and hopefully appreciate a bit more detailed info on the relationship between master volume setting, power, and volume (which is pretty much zero).

Ken.
 

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