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8" Speaker Recommendations
- Thread starter MountainMikeCS
- Start date
Michael Arnopol made some very interesting 8" units but I don't know if he's still around.
JeezyMcNuggles
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- Feb 23, 2018
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I'd probably go with the Eminence standard
Eminence Alpha-8A American Standard Series 8" 125-Watt Replacement PA Speaker 8 Ohm
Do call Al at USSpeaker.com and let him know your cab's aproximate inside dimensions, port sizes and port depths. He can make a recommendation on which Faitals or any other speakers will work well (or not) in your cab using his modeling software.
WOW! on the after the fact LOL!
Not funny and not cool.
Al Kraft
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If I were looking for advice on making an 8" driver work nicely for a bass cab application Andy Field, Mike Arnopol, Duke LeJeune, Don Oatman, and David Luke would the folks whose advice I think would be very useful...I on the other hand have pretty much nothing to offer except for that.
Exactly. I entered a silly face to indicate I was joking but it didn't translate over for some reason.This has to be a joke in some fashion - Forgot aor accidently said "don't"?
Sorry Aged Horse! I thought it was there. I REALLY DO value your opinion.
I apologize @agedhorse - I meant to put a "silly face" emoji after my statement to indicate that I was kidding - I REALLY DO value your opinion. I was goofing b/c you usually question why I would build something instead of just buying it so I was just trying to bust your chops a little - in advance.
-Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
BTW - I can't edit my original post or I would - I guess there is a time expiration on edits?
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Yeah, that was a really bizarre post that made me wonder what I did to you to deserve that… there have been a few posts by others no longer on the forum to that extent.
Describe the box.
The box is 10.5" wide x 10.25" high by 11" deep. It has a rectangular vent at the bottom which spans the interior width of the box, making the vent opening slightly wider than 9.5" and about 1.25" high and 7" deep.
I included some pics below - its a prototype, built just to see how sturdy it would be using 1/2 ply but it came out extremely solid using only Tight Bond wood glue. Thus the very rough speaker opening - which was only cut to fit a small Hartke tweeter I was experimenting with.
To keep it light but strong I used 1/2 ply I had sitting around but I used a 1/2 solid wood board I had to build the baffle and top of the vent - I hoped that would serve as a structural stabilizer and it sure did. The box is both extremely light but very solid.
Thanks for your help on this!
Mike
I included some pics below - its a prototype, built just to see how sturdy it would be using 1/2 ply but it came out extremely solid using only Tight Bond wood glue. Thus the very rough speaker opening - which was only cut to fit a small Hartke tweeter I was experimenting with.
To keep it light but strong I used 1/2 ply I had sitting around but I used a 1/2 solid wood board I had to build the baffle and top of the vent - I hoped that would serve as a structural stabilizer and it sure did. The box is both extremely light but very solid.
Thanks for your help on this!
Mike
I have two of Mike Arnopol's Cabinets both have Eminence 8" and sound incredible, however he moved to Ciare and felt that they were the better sounding
in his 1/8 builds. He's on a hiatus from building cabinets.
in his 1/8 builds. He's on a hiatus from building cabinets.
Hmmm... For one thing, presuming a baffleboard set-back of about an inch, you've succeeded in building a nearly perfectly cubical enclosure -- I'm guesstimating internal dimensions of 9.5 x 9.25 x 9.25 inches. So, there's that.
Also, it seems like the vent has a pretty large cross-section for a box that small. Again guesstimating, with the internal volume being about 13+ liters, I would think that the Fb would be up above 90Hz or so.
Where did this port design originate? I'm thinking some of the bass-reflex modelling software might get a little hinky when the enclosure volume is so small and the vent so large. And do I understand correctly that this is a prototype for a larger cab you intend to build?
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I took a design from the "Guns and Guitars" guy for a home-made bass cab and simply scaled it down for a 5" tweeter I had from a Hartke 4.5 410 cab I used to own. The later cab I built, though, was intended for one of my spare speakers I have laying around - a 10" speaker from a SWR Goliath-II Jr 210 cab I have. The cab is killer and low, but just too heavy to lug around. I based that cab design on the recommended one-speaker cab design from Eminence for a vented, one-10" cab for their Legend CA-1059 speaker, which many people in this forum have recommended as a drop-in replacement for the my SWR speakers. I figured, if they are that compatible this could be pretty powerful... It is.Hmmm... For one thing, presuming a baffleboard set-back of about an inch, you've succeeded in building a nearly perfectly cubical enclosure -- I'm guesstimating internal dimensions of 9.5 x 9.25 x 9.25 inches. So, there's that.
Also, it seems like the vent has a pretty large cross-section for a box that small. Again guesstimating, with the internal volume being about 13+ liters, I would think that the Fb would be up above 90Hz or so.
Where did this port design originate? I'm thinking some of the bass-reflex modelling software might get a little hinky when the enclosure volume is so small and the vent so large. And do I understand correctly that this is a prototype for a larger cab you intend to build?
So - I have this ugly prototype laying around that I figured I'd try to find an 8" speaker for to use as a practice cab with a smaller head - or to pair with the 10" cab for small jams.
And now that we've seen the enclosure, do we still want to be recommending $200+ drivers? @basscooker's suggestion of the MCM looks like a good un' to me.
EDIT: Seriously, if you halved the cross-sectional area of the vent and returned that volume to the enclosure's net volume, you'd end up with a tuning around 68Hz, the Fs of that MCM driver. Of course, that would require some wood butchery, so you might not want to do it, lest you spoil your earlier fine craftsmanship.
EDIT: Seriously, if you halved the cross-sectional area of the vent and returned that volume to the enclosure's net volume, you'd end up with a tuning around 68Hz, the Fs of that MCM driver. Of course, that would require some wood butchery, so you might not want to do it, lest you spoil your earlier fine craftsmanship.
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OK, cool.
As long as there's some actual engineering behind it, it's all good. 
Edit: Here's the Guns and Guitars guy's vid of his bass cab build, in which he acknowledges that he 'adapted' the design from a car sub build. So the OP is building a 'scaled' adaptation of an adaption of a 'design', for a driver as yet undetermined. How could it miss?
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OK, cool.
Edit: Here's the Guns and Guitars guy's vid of his bass cab build, in which he acknowledges that he 'adapted' the design from a car sub build. So the OP is building a 'scaled' adaptation of an adaption of a 'design', for a driver as yet undetermined. How could it miss?
I really like Dan’s YouTube channel, but this video was such a huge swing and a miss.
I hope he continues to stick with the things he does well (of which there are many), and steers clear of those he doesn’t.
Yeah - after a few watches I changed my design to one recommended by Eminence for the ca-1059. Works well with a stock speaker from my SWR Goliath II Jr cab.
Actually I'm looking for a less-than $100 driver and then to pick that up used for under $50. Then if it sounds well I'd build a new cab same size with better materials - something light but with a solid surface - and pay attention to the details. I'm obviously not a skilled woodworking guy - other than installing molding and building a chicken coup!27092602[/URL], member: 334668"]And now that we've seen the enclosure, do we still want to be recommending $200+ drivers? @basscooker's suggestion of the MCM looks like a good un' to me.
EDIT: Seriously, if you halved the cross-sectional area of the vent and returned that volume to the enclosure's net volume, you'd end up with a tuning around 68Hz, the Fs of that MCM driver. Of course, that would require some wood butchery, so you might not want to do it, lest you spoil your earlier fine craftsmanship.
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