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A bass for a pint-sized girl?
- Thread starter Em_K
- Start date
How about Steinberger? Some of them can get expensive, but you can find one your price range if you keep your eyes peeled. A couple on ebay right now, as a matter of fact. Although Fat Mike is more known for the Dano mentioned above, when I saw NOFX 3 or 4 years back he was playing a headless Steinberger. Awesome, innovative instruments, if you're not hung up on "traditional" designs.
+1 on the Soundgears, too. FWIW, I worked for Ibanez until about 2 1/2 years ago, and handled thousands of their basses. No love for my crappy old job, but most of the SR line was solid. I always really liked the SR500s, and especially 900s (also on ebay now, and in your price range).
The Sterling SB14 might also be something to check out, if you want a more size-friendly Stingray. Smaller, lighter body, but the same vibe. Active EQ and everything! Played one when I was Stingray shopping a few weeks ago. At $599, I was very impressed.
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I also don't think short scale is necessarily the best option. Really limits your options when it comes to getting a new bass, although if you play a shorty and you dig it, by all means get one! One of the meanest bassists I ever saw was a female professor at UArts here in Philly about 10 years ago. Probably 60+ years old at the time, and no better than 5'2". Oh, and she was playing DOUBLE BASS, not electric. Seriously, she was a MONSTER. Don't even think about letting your size hold you back. Tiny little girls make killer bassists.
Whatever you get, have it set up by a pro when you get it, and at least once every year. Preferable twice/year when the seasons change (or when it's just not playing right). Wood shrinks and expands with changes in heat and humidity, which causes the neck to bow and need adjustment. That's likely why the action is so high and your intonation is suffering. Even on a cheap instrument, most can be made serviceable with a good setup.
+1 on the Soundgears, too. FWIW, I worked for Ibanez until about 2 1/2 years ago, and handled thousands of their basses. No love for my crappy old job, but most of the SR line was solid. I always really liked the SR500s, and especially 900s (also on ebay now, and in your price range).
The Sterling SB14 might also be something to check out, if you want a more size-friendly Stingray. Smaller, lighter body, but the same vibe. Active EQ and everything! Played one when I was Stingray shopping a few weeks ago. At $599, I was very impressed.
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I also don't think short scale is necessarily the best option. Really limits your options when it comes to getting a new bass, although if you play a shorty and you dig it, by all means get one! One of the meanest bassists I ever saw was a female professor at UArts here in Philly about 10 years ago. Probably 60+ years old at the time, and no better than 5'2". Oh, and she was playing DOUBLE BASS, not electric. Seriously, she was a MONSTER. Don't even think about letting your size hold you back. Tiny little girls make killer bassists.
Whatever you get, have it set up by a pro when you get it, and at least once every year. Preferable twice/year when the seasons change (or when it's just not playing right). Wood shrinks and expands with changes in heat and humidity, which causes the neck to bow and need adjustment. That's likely why the action is so high and your intonation is suffering. Even on a cheap instrument, most can be made serviceable with a good setup.
carrythezero: Good suggestion, there, a headless Steinberger would also be a good idea. They're extremely light and they have their own sound (they usually have EMG pickups which are very distinct, being active). Alternately you can look for a cheaper copy like a Hohner B2A which is a licensed clone of a Steinberger - still a good instrument, though made with cheaper pickups. The mechanical parts are the same.
The one thing that could run more expensive is the strings which are double-ball end, but you can either get Status ones which are supposedly great (look for half-rounds, those were used on the original) yet rather cheap or get regular ones and find a string adapter on e-bay.
The one thing that could run more expensive is the strings which are double-ball end, but you can either get Status ones which are supposedly great (look for half-rounds, those were used on the original) yet rather cheap or get regular ones and find a string adapter on e-bay.
Ibanez, IMO. They're cheap-ish and light. I personally prefer ESP LTD, but they're the heaviest things I've ever played, so no.
+1 and they are considerably less than $500 if you haven't already done so try shorter scale basses like the Jaguar. Jazz style basses have longer scale length but narrower string spacing that might be helpful with smaller hands. IMO Fender and their offspring Squier work well in any style of music. I encourage you to get to a store with these choices and more, play every bass that looks interesting and learn.
Your reference to the distance between the frets and the strings is commonly called "action" or "string height" and is adjustable in most cases. If you cannot obtain a replacement bass in time for your big performance then take your bass to a decent set-up person with skills to adjust the truss rod and set intonation and bridge/nut height. Your not so good bass might surprise you when properly set-up, just take a new set of strings with you or plan on buying a set as string replacement is a standard part of set-up. From my experience the vast majority of instruments benefit in playability and intonation after a good set-up. Some are restored from near junk to decent, some decent ones become sweet...
Some very good advice here. All it takes is a turn of the truss rod and you'll be amazed at how differently your bass feels and how much easier it is to play. This is a standard adjustment and something that anyone can do - and any music store will know how to do.
If you want a new bass, the advice you've gotten here is excellent - Ibanez for long scale, Fender Jag or Mustang for short scale. I'd avoid the P bass - they have very thick necks which are not good for small hands. And I'd avoid hollow bodies because even though they are ultra light, they are not nearly as versatile in the sounds they can get.
I have small hands for a guy and play an Ibanez SRX2EX2. (Who thinks up these names??) It is a long scale but has a very thin neck. Ibanez basses are famous for their comfortable necks. Anything in the SR series will do. Higher model numbers in the SR line are better basses (or have more desirable features).
It has active electronics which is something you should consider for versatility. Passive basses sound great, but active electronics give you tonal variation which is one of the things you are looking for.
I reread your post and see mention of P type basses (wider string spacing than Jazz basses). If you are familiar with and have experience with Precision Bass you are already playing a full size Bass guitar. Short scale basses are not toys by comparison either so if you are a smaller build do play a short scale bass before buying.
If there is a good forum for used basses in your area many on TB agree you get more for your money when you BUY USED.
If there is a good forum for used basses in your area many on TB agree you get more for your money when you BUY USED.
Would totally buy either the Squier Jaguar Short Scale or the Squier VM Mustang and put tapewounds, Chromes, or nylon strings on it. She'll be very happy. Great learning bass and it will sound great. Have it set up by a pro.
- Oct 7, 2000
- 18,619
- 38,943
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- Endorsing artist: Musicman basses
Without question either one of the new squier shorscales, or this http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f8/break-open-your-piggy-bank-take-out-4-815013/ .
Fender/Squier Jazz Basses have thin necks that you would probably find quite comfortable, as does the Ibanez SR series, akthough if it's a short scale you're after I'd look into the Squier Mustang or Jaguar Basses. All of these could be found well under your budget in England, so I'll assume it would be similar for Europe.
I am seriously Gasing for a short scale bass. I started years ago with a Kalamazoo KB, and went to a fender Coronado II (hollowbody) for years, which I still have. It was, and will always be my favorite bass of all times. I own four other LS basses, and now I want a solid body SS bass. I went to the Guitar show in Arlington yesterday, looking for a SS bass. I found the following:
o 2 musicmasters really relic'd, ugly, and way over priced
o 2 mustangs, one had Pbass pups, and both over priced
o 1 bullet, talked him down to $500, but passed because of bad electronics
So, I’m happy that Squier has released the VM Mustang ($280) which I plan to get, unless I start hearing bad things about them (which I doubt). I’ve only seen them on ebay, and I’m squeamish about buying w/o playing. The bullet I played yesterday was awesome, although I really want a mustang. The sad part is, I saw a bullet last week on CL when I was out of state for $190, but the guy never did call me back.
My recommendation in order:
1. Mustang (fender will be pricey and hard to find, I’d do a squier)
2. Bullet
3. Musicmaster
4. Jaguar is one I’m considering because I’m hearing good things
5. Epi EBO which is very similar to the Kalamazoo I originally had.
6. Bronco if I find one really cheap, because I enjoy modding, but if you spend $$$ modding, might as well get the Mustang in the first place.
o 2 musicmasters really relic'd, ugly, and way over priced
o 2 mustangs, one had Pbass pups, and both over priced
o 1 bullet, talked him down to $500, but passed because of bad electronics
So, I’m happy that Squier has released the VM Mustang ($280) which I plan to get, unless I start hearing bad things about them (which I doubt). I’ve only seen them on ebay, and I’m squeamish about buying w/o playing. The bullet I played yesterday was awesome, although I really want a mustang. The sad part is, I saw a bullet last week on CL when I was out of state for $190, but the guy never did call me back.
My recommendation in order:
1. Mustang (fender will be pricey and hard to find, I’d do a squier)
2. Bullet
3. Musicmaster
4. Jaguar is one I’m considering because I’m hearing good things
5. Epi EBO which is very similar to the Kalamazoo I originally had.
6. Bronco if I find one really cheap, because I enjoy modding, but if you spend $$$ modding, might as well get the Mustang in the first place.
Thanks for great advice! I'll definitely have many models I want to try out when I head to the music store. 
Fender Mustangs are very hard to find indeed! I've checked eBay, but the only ones I could find were in the US. I'd like to avoid customs and high shipping fees, if possible.
I haven't paid much attention to the cheap bass I'm playing at the moment because I've been thinking all the time that it is just a temporary instrument for me. I have a friend who would be able to fix it, but he is abroad at the moment and the music store/repair shop in my home town is quite pricey. So I thought that maybe it isn't worth it to have the string height fixed because it could cost half of the price of the instrument itself! And I'm not sure if the owner of the bass would reimburse me the price when I return it.
So I have just silently suffered...
Haha, I was actually expecting that someone would mention Daisy Rock.
If I have too much money some day I'll definitely buy one of those just out of curiosity, the flower- one and then the butterfly-shaped guitar as well. But I'll get that proper "tool" first. 
I'd love to give a try to the new Modern Player Jaguar, but I guess it is not yet available here in Europe? Many retailers have told me that they are still awaiting their first batches. The price would be right for me and I've read some promising reviews.
I'd also like to know what is a reasonable price for a Japanese-made Fender P-bass from the late 90´s? The bass is slightly worn and has some marks. I'm asking because I was offered one. I'm not sure at all if I want to buy it, but I'd like to know what is the right price since the seller asked me how much I'd be willing to pay for it.
Fender Mustangs are very hard to find indeed! I've checked eBay, but the only ones I could find were in the US. I'd like to avoid customs and high shipping fees, if possible.
I haven't paid much attention to the cheap bass I'm playing at the moment because I've been thinking all the time that it is just a temporary instrument for me. I have a friend who would be able to fix it, but he is abroad at the moment and the music store/repair shop in my home town is quite pricey. So I thought that maybe it isn't worth it to have the string height fixed because it could cost half of the price of the instrument itself! And I'm not sure if the owner of the bass would reimburse me the price when I return it.
So I have just silently suffered...
Haha, I was actually expecting that someone would mention Daisy Rock.
If I have too much money some day I'll definitely buy one of those just out of curiosity, the flower- one and then the butterfly-shaped guitar as well. But I'll get that proper "tool" first. I'd love to give a try to the new Modern Player Jaguar, but I guess it is not yet available here in Europe? Many retailers have told me that they are still awaiting their first batches. The price would be right for me and I've read some promising reviews.
I'd also like to know what is a reasonable price for a Japanese-made Fender P-bass from the late 90´s? The bass is slightly worn and has some marks. I'm asking because I was offered one. I'm not sure at all if I want to buy it, but I'd like to know what is the right price since the seller asked me how much I'd be willing to pay for it.
+1
since I've hurt my hand I'm using Ibanez Mikro to avoid stressing whatever's injured and I've found the tone to be quite satisfying, especially for the price.
Almost always a new bass from a store should be taken to a specialist for a setup job, that will help with the "strings are very far off from the fretboard" problem. English speakers usually say that as "high action". Nice low strings are usually called "low action".
When I say "setup job" I mean setting the string height at the bridge, the neck curvature (relief) with the truss rod, and the intonation (string length) at the bridge.
A good guide is here:
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It is good to practice doing your own setup job because no other person can set it up just the way you want. The best thing is, if you get a new bass, keep your old bass and practice setting up on your old bass.
The most important thing in setting up a bass is to go very slow with the truss rod adjustment. No more than 1/4 turn, and then wait 2 days for the neck to change before adjusting again. We call that "letting the neck settle in". Anything else you do while setting up the bass is reversible, but if you adjust the truss rod too far too fast, you can get the neck warped so it can't be repaired. Don't be scared, just go slow.
If you already know how to play a guitar, you should look into a Schecter Hellcat VI. Tuned like a guitar but a bass. I believe that type of bass was used on some early Cream albums and some of The Cure's stuff. Check it out on youtube.
