A bridge to fit these screw holes?

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by Adrian_D, Jul 9, 2019.

  1. Adrian_D


    Sep 18, 2018
    I've recently embarked on an accidental parts P-bass project (I bought the neck and body late one night on ebay - you know the story). I'm pretty new to all of this and want the process to be as simple as possible so I want to use as many of the original screw holes as I can.

    I was wondering what these bridge screw holes are - I think the five in a row would be for a standard 5 screw bridge (they seem the same spacing on my Fender Mex P-bass), but I am not sure what the other 3 screw holes are for.

    Are all bass bridges likely to have the same screw spacing?

    I'm also assuming that the longer hole is for the wire to ground the bridge.

    Thanks in advance (and apologies if this has been answered elsewhere - I've had a search, but found nothing so far). Adrian.

    Attached Files:

  2. charlie monroe

    charlie monroe Gold Supporting Member

    Feb 14, 2011
    Buffalo, NY
    Looks like a standard (although crooked) mounting pattern to me.

    The two outside holes are likely for an ashtray bridge cover.
    The elongated hole is certainly for the ground.
    No idea what the lonely single hole toward the pick ups is for.
    Rallypoint_1 and alanloomis1980 like this.
  3. JRA

    JRA my words = opinion Gold Supporting Member

    no, but that would make your quest an easy one wouldn't it? :D

    IME: getting the right bridge is way more important than getting one with "matching holes" --- a hole can be filled/covered. good luck! :thumbsup:

    edit: clarity
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2019
    RSBBass likes this.
  4. Adrian_D


    Sep 18, 2018
    Thanks for the help. Seems my quest has just begun!
  5. Adrian_D


    Sep 18, 2018
    Could you recommend me a good bridge then please? The bass I'm building is a p-bass body with a J-bass neck (I prefer the thinner necks, but don't like the off-set J bodies). Would string spacing be an issue?
    alanloomis1980 likes this.
  6. JRA

    JRA my words = opinion Gold Supporting Member

    it is for some players. and it is for some instruments. i use a schaller 3D bridge (on a couple of my axes) for just that concern:
    in most cases: this bridge will cover up the holes left by your old bridge. the 4-string version (the one i'm familiar with) only has 3 holes.

    that's a fairly pricey bridge, however. cheaper bent-plate bridges with threaded barrels also give you some 'wiggle room' with that string spacing issue --- and they mostly come with the same 5 holes! also: you can buy the threaded barrels/assembly to replace the barrels in a bent plate design.
    here's a complete bridge with the threaded barrels:

    you can get the threaded barrels themselves from several sources, including ebay, stew mac, and allparts:
    BP-2125 Vintage-style Bass Barrel Saddles

    i think you have lots of choices if you don't get obsessed about the holes...although, depending on your choice(s), you may have to fill a hole/holes to mount the new bridge. not for cosmetic reasons but for 'mounting integrity' reasons.

    as always: if you're not sure you have the skills to pull this off = see a competent tech/luthier for help getting the job done and/or advice!

    other members can share their advice/preferences which may be pertinent to your quest...and they will! good luck with your bridge(s)! :thumbsup:
  7. CallMeAl


    Dec 2, 2016
    Ithaca Ny
    I'm in the "a fender bent plate bridge is just fine" camp. But feel free to look into hi mass; gotoh, hipshot, fender hi mass all are popular. I've never had to redrill bridge holes, but look into the alignment process; like Charlie said those do look crooked.

    J neck P bass is a popular mod. I'm one of them! (Good choice! :thumbsup:) I've never heard of string spacing being a "problem." Its one of the reasons I like it.

    One trick I picked up: once the bass is all put together and strung, check the strings are centered left to right. If not- loosen the neck screws. Pull the neck one way or the other (best to have an assistant.) Clamp the screws back down and - voila! Centered strings :)