MY fan is very noisy... (sounds like a vacuum cleaner!) Are there any exact size/voltage/pinout replacements which I can buy? (in Europe too?)
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a new fan for vintage SVT.
- Thread starter boroman
- Start date
I'm not aware of one that comes with the proper connector but otherwise the same size fans that meet or exceed the original specs are readily available. For the connector you need to buy a molex connector and pins. They are easy to install.
Are you looking for a 230 VAC 50 Hz or a 115 VAC 60 Hz fan?
Are you looking for a 230 VAC 50 Hz or a 115 VAC 60 Hz fan?
Don't really know. I dont think there's a 230/115V problem on the fans too. I mean, when the amp is rewired for 230V, nothing in the fan area is changed and it works. I think it has like 25V or something? I dont remember well.
Some of these fans can be disassembled and oiled and are then good as new. Worth trying before you start spending money on new parts.
Normally on the vintage SVT, the fan is wired to the mains voltage through the on-off power switch. If your amp was rewired from 120 VAC to 230 VAC so that you could use it in Europe, it is probably running on 230 VAC 50 Hz. Some fans can be connected, with some rewiring, to run with either voltage, 50-60 Hz. If you have an AC voltmeter, it would be a good idea to disconnect the fan and measure the voltage coming out of the amp on the fan connector to see what was done when your amp was converted.
In any event, the standard fan is 119mm X 119 mm X 38 mm. The original air flow specification was 60 cubic feet per minute (CFM).
When I want an ultra quiet fan for an SVT, I use one manufactured by Invalid Link Removed. Invalid Link Removed is their catalog. I use a 115 VAC 60 Hz model 4530Z. If you need a 230 VAC 50Hz fan, models with similar specs to the 4530Z are in the catalog. This model has a low sound pressure of 32 dB(A). The lower this spec is, the better. The air flow rate is about 70.6 cubic feet per minute (120 cubic meters/hour). You would also need an LZ126 power cable, it plugs into the fan, and if you need a new one, a metal fan guard such as an LZ30-4, and mounting hardware. These parts are in the Invalid Link Removed catalog. This is just one suggestion. The fan is a bit expensive but it does a good job. There are many 119mm alternatives out there that meet the CFM spec. If you are patient, you can even find an original Rotron replacement fan on ebay.
To connect the fan to the amp as it was done originally, you will need a molex housing and pins. The pins crimp onto the end of the fan's power cord and then are inserted into the molex housing. Some people simply splice in the new wires. It saves on the cost of a new connector.
This is the molex connector and type of pins that are used for the fan. This mates to the other 2 circuit molex connector that comes out of big 12 circuit molex connector on the chassis.
You might be able to find a molex connector kit like the one below. Otherwise the parts are available individually from an electronics supply house (in the uk try uk.farnell.com or uk.rs-online.com). Details of the 2 circuit molex connectors and standard 0.093" pins are available Invalid Link Removed.
It looks complicated but isn't that bad to install. Otherwise it wouldn't cost that much for a tech to sort out.
Normally on the vintage SVT, the fan is wired to the mains voltage through the on-off power switch. If your amp was rewired from 120 VAC to 230 VAC so that you could use it in Europe, it is probably running on 230 VAC 50 Hz. Some fans can be connected, with some rewiring, to run with either voltage, 50-60 Hz. If you have an AC voltmeter, it would be a good idea to disconnect the fan and measure the voltage coming out of the amp on the fan connector to see what was done when your amp was converted.
In any event, the standard fan is 119mm X 119 mm X 38 mm. The original air flow specification was 60 cubic feet per minute (CFM).
When I want an ultra quiet fan for an SVT, I use one manufactured by Invalid Link Removed. Invalid Link Removed is their catalog. I use a 115 VAC 60 Hz model 4530Z. If you need a 230 VAC 50Hz fan, models with similar specs to the 4530Z are in the catalog. This model has a low sound pressure of 32 dB(A). The lower this spec is, the better. The air flow rate is about 70.6 cubic feet per minute (120 cubic meters/hour). You would also need an LZ126 power cable, it plugs into the fan, and if you need a new one, a metal fan guard such as an LZ30-4, and mounting hardware. These parts are in the Invalid Link Removed catalog. This is just one suggestion. The fan is a bit expensive but it does a good job. There are many 119mm alternatives out there that meet the CFM spec. If you are patient, you can even find an original Rotron replacement fan on ebay.
To connect the fan to the amp as it was done originally, you will need a molex housing and pins. The pins crimp onto the end of the fan's power cord and then are inserted into the molex housing. Some people simply splice in the new wires. It saves on the cost of a new connector.
This is the molex connector and type of pins that are used for the fan. This mates to the other 2 circuit molex connector that comes out of big 12 circuit molex connector on the chassis.
You might be able to find a molex connector kit like the one below. Otherwise the parts are available individually from an electronics supply house (in the uk try uk.farnell.com or uk.rs-online.com). Details of the 2 circuit molex connectors and standard 0.093" pins are available Invalid Link Removed.
It looks complicated but isn't that bad to install. Otherwise it wouldn't cost that much for a tech to sort out.
WOW! You are the man! Thanks very very much! I'll try to disasemble the fan fist. I remember cleaning it some time ago but only exterior...
Man one of my fans split in half a year ago.So i tried to find the same but its not anywhere to be found.I can get close to the specs but not exact....
does it matter i dont know ?
The fix' i superglued it together & its great now.
I heard that you can just wire them straight to the power so they will work at one speed all the time but the fans in my amp are dual speed.
does it matter i dont know ?
The fix' i superglued it together & its great now.
I heard that you can just wire them straight to the power so they will work at one speed all the time but the fans in my amp are dual speed.
I just replaced a fan on a vintage 80's MTI Japanese SVT. It had a monster EBM-Papst model 4600X installed which is supposedly 106 cfm @ 60dba. Sounded like a jet engine and blew a massive amount of air - more than most bathroom ventilation fans.
I purchased a Knight Electronics Orion model OA109AP-11-2TB which is supposedly 71 cfm @ 30dba. This is a comparable spec to the Papst model 4530Z recommended above. However, the Orion is ball bearing instead of sleeve, and best of all you can Invalid Link Removed
To install I simply de-soldered the existing wiring harness, then solder it to the new fan which had the exact same solder lugs in the exact same position as the Papst fan.
Honestly, it doesn't seem 30db quieter, and in fact with a meter right next to the rear of the SVT it read almost 70db. I then added a few washers per mounting screw to move the fan away from the metal grill slightly and dropped it to around 64db. I've seen some others suggest cutting out the factory grill and using one of the more modern finger guards instead. The factory grill obstructs the airflow too much which causes the fan to accelerate thus increasing noise.
It's still too loud for bedroom use. I'll probably install an on/off switch for the fan, then run fanless in the bedroom, fan on for band / stage use.
I purchased a Knight Electronics Orion model OA109AP-11-2TB which is supposedly 71 cfm @ 30dba. This is a comparable spec to the Papst model 4530Z recommended above. However, the Orion is ball bearing instead of sleeve, and best of all you can Invalid Link Removed
To install I simply de-soldered the existing wiring harness, then solder it to the new fan which had the exact same solder lugs in the exact same position as the Papst fan.
Honestly, it doesn't seem 30db quieter, and in fact with a meter right next to the rear of the SVT it read almost 70db. I then added a few washers per mounting screw to move the fan away from the metal grill slightly and dropped it to around 64db. I've seen some others suggest cutting out the factory grill and using one of the more modern finger guards instead. The factory grill obstructs the airflow too much which causes the fan to accelerate thus increasing noise.
It's still too loud for bedroom use. I'll probably install an on/off switch for the fan, then run fanless in the bedroom, fan on for band / stage use.
on the subject of fans & wiring of fans.
is the fan supposed to blow air IN to the head, or should it blow air OUT of the head?
Switching the polarity of the connectors might have occurred last time I unhooked my fan.
is the fan supposed to blow air IN to the head, or should it blow air OUT of the head?
Switching the polarity of the connectors might have occurred last time I unhooked my fan.
Here's another one to consider, slightly lower cfm which means slightly lower noise.
1053-1007-ND
Invalid Link Removed
1053-1007-ND
Invalid Link Removed
Reviving this thread because many of the links to the recommended quiet fans for SVT don't work anymore. What are the current recommendations? I would like to replace the fan in my 50th Anniversary SVT head.
- Feb 12, 2006
- 61,049
- 5
- 221,002
- Disclosures
- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
? This thread is about fans for vintages SVTs. The 50th AV is not a vintage SVT. I would be extremely surprised if a 50th AV can use the vintage size fan. I suggesting trying to find a relevant thread or start a new thread.
As far as quiet fans for vintages SVT. You generally wind up trading air flow for noise. So fans that are quieter tend to be less effective.
The exception seems to be that a fan with more depth can be a bit quieter without giving up performance. Some people say they have managed to stuff a slightly deeper fan into their vintage SVT.
For example, specs for one of the fans listed above Orion model OA109AP-11-2TB
75/70 CFM and 35dB
The following model is equivalent to the factory fan in my 69 and 87 SVTs
OA125AP-11-2TB (120x120x25mm, 60CFM, 37dBa)
It flows less air and is slightly more noisy than the preceding fan. Depth is 25mm vs 38.5mm for the preceding fan. I have found it a bit of a challenge to get the stock fan in without the blades hitting the power wires, so I haven't bothered.
- Feb 12, 2006
- 61,049
- 5
- 221,002
- Disclosures
- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
