My next project - Darkstar P - might very well get a Varitone circuit in it. Thanks for posting this, DH!
If you put a pot in series with this unit you can control how much it varies the tone....
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My next project - Darkstar P - might very well get a Varitone circuit in it. Thanks for posting this, DH!
Hey Dark Horse: How 'bout a photo of one already built? I'd like to see the best way to physically construct this (how/where to position all those caps), especially given the limited cavity space. THANKS!
If you put a pot in series with this unit you can control how much it varies the tone....
Sure -
If you want top vary the amount that bleeds to ground, use another pot - run the leads on the "ground" side of the capacitors to lug-3 of the "tone" pot. Connect lug 2 and 1 of the "tone" pot to each other/ground. That will vary how much goes through to ground, and the varitone switch will determine what frequencies go to ground.
I wire mine so that one position is a bypass.
Check the diagram - this one does as well.
So if I took one setting on the switch, and connected it to ground with no cap involved, that would send all frequencies to ground and put my bass at zero volume, right? Just making sure. I'm thinking of putting one of these in a three pickup bass I'm working on that won't have a master volume, so it would be nice to have a kill switch without putting more holes in the PG.
Yes, please, when you get a chance. Can you also put the two jacks in there so I can make a box?Sure -
If you want top vary the amount that bleeds to ground, use another pot - run the leads on the "ground" side of the capacitors to lug-3 of the "tone" pot. Connect lug 2 and 1 of the "tone" pot to each other/ground. That will vary how much goes through to ground, and the varitone switch will determine what frequencies go to ground.
I can draw a picture if needed and post it tomorrow. Let me know.
Well, I got it up an running! Pretty cool. However, I could not get the pot going. Maybe I don't know or understand what it will do but here's what it did.
I made mine with an open setting, like yours, and a kill setting, with 4 caps.
On the kill switch setting, the pot would open it up and close it down. Is that right? Sounds wrong because I want the killswitch always to kill and if the knob is not all the way it will just sound like the open setting.
On the the other settings, not the kill or open, it would just roll back to open all the way, but very abruptly. Not much adjustment in the travel. Does this sound right?
Later, Dave.
I used a 250 k. Any thoughts on what to try next?
Let me say, thanks for doing this kind of thing. I am not good at the theory but ok at the practice of making. This is useful to me.
Also, I used .1 .01 .001 .047, all uf. How would I arrange these to kind of be progressive? Or is that the right word?
One more, can I use all twelve spots on the switch? Or would I have to get two switches to get more options?
Dave
On the kill switch setting, the pot would open it up and close it down. Is that right? Sounds wrong because I want the killswitch always to kill and if the knob is not all the way it will just sound like the open setting.
Later, Dave.
I made mine with an open setting, like yours, and a kill setting, with 4 caps.
On the kill switch setting, the pot would open it up and close it down. Is that right? Sounds wrong because I want the killswitch always to kill and if the knob is not all the way it will just sound like the open setting.
On the the other settings, not the kill or open, it would just roll back to open all the way, but very abruptly. Not much adjustment in the travel. Does this sound right?
Later, Dave.