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A simple varitone circuit for your bass -

Dark horse, Just to clarify, matching values with the volume pot?
Also if this was used with EMG pickups, would the value need to match the lower values?

Just use the normal value volume pot - the switch wont affect it as all. If you use the "tone" pot I mentioned later in the thread, you can just use whatever is normal (probably 250k) for your bass and pickups. With actives, the 25k (I think thats what's in EMGs) should be fine.
 
So, you wouldn't recommend the StellarTone ToneStyler?


I never said that, or anything "like" that. I've played the Tonestyler in a Jazz Bass before and loved it - I think it's a great piece.

However, I only need a few sounds - I'm cheap - and I know how to build stuff - so just building my own simple varitone was a "no brainer" for me.

If you're thinking about a Tonestyler, you might spend the $5 or $6 and build this one - then if you want more tones, pick up a Tonestyler. This is a great way to see if you even "like what a varitone does".
 
How about putting a varitone on each pickup for a Jazz bass (or any 2 pickup / 2 volume basses)? Any bad implications in doing that?

Should work - but be aware that in some settings you'll get some signal loss with a varitone, so you may need a simple preamp to make up for loss in extreme settings. You'll also want to be careful in cap value selection, so that the pickups don't cancel the others frequencies and cause comb filtering due to pickup interaction. Definitely worth an experiment though.
 
:cool:

This is cool.
But if you don't want to mod your bass.
Get a Birdsong B-Box.
It's a passive 6 way varitone pedal.
That is totally passive. (no batteries)
Just line in, line out. into amp.
Sounds, and works great.
Works for any instrument.
I've had one on my pedal board for over a year.

yes, but this mod is nearly free... how much is that pedal?
 
I never said that, or anything "like" that. I've played the Tonestyler in a Jazz Bass before and loved it - I think it's a great piece.

However, I only need a few sounds - I'm cheap - and I know how to build stuff - so just building my own simple varitone was a "no brainer" for me.

If you're thinking about a Tonestyler, you might spend the $5 or $6 and build this one - then if you want more tones, pick up a Tonestyler. This is a great way to see if you even "like what a varitone does".

I was just curious. I actually have one in my DJ4 and I like it quite a bit. I'm a handy guy but with little time so I just bought one. I could live without it but I find it quite useful.

Wasn't trying to put words in your mouth at all. If I didn't already have one I'd build one of these. I think people would be surprised at how many different tones you can get.
 
you could modify this by making a few setting simple filters.. by adding a resistor to the cap..

so many variations to be had..

And 90% of them get lost in a live setting, and make you fiddle a lot when switching and to keep gain constant. Same with multiple passive circuits for multiple pickups which interact anyway, and an overabundance of coil-switching a phase switching. To an extent, some of that can be useful on guitars, but on basses it's just stuff that could be done better and easier by foot.

I've pretty much found that beyond THREE cap settings it's like having a 24-speed bike when you just need something that can cruise the boardwalk lookin' at babes on rollerblades, and leave a hand free for a beverage or gestures ; }
 
This is a simple "frequency selected bleed to ground". Many Varitones work this way. Some use a inductor to retain a bit more highs though.

A real Varitone, like used in Gibson guitars, is a midrange notch filter, and does need the inductor.

This is more like a "decade" control as used on the Les Paul Triumph bass. This is also very useful. A lot of people don't realize all the different tones you can get using smaller value caps in a tone control circuit.

I've been saying for a while now that these are easy and cheap to make, instead of spending money for the (IMHO) over priced commercial version which will remain unnamed.
 
Thanks! This is really a great thing to do. I have found that when I want to cut the top, I want to roll off certain frequencies, NOT everything above a fixed point. If you add the pot to it, this is essentially a parametric shelving equalizer, where you can very the frequency and amount - most likely what is done in most studio recordings.

I started doing this in the 70's when my Hagstrom had only a tone slide switch. I added 2 more that could be used in combination, and found it worked really well. I have been looking for the right rotary switch that will fit and has the standard bushing. Thanks for the RS tip.
 
A real Varitone, like used in Gibson guitars, is a midrange notch filter, and does need the inductor.

True, but for "ease" of explaining, most people will be able to understand / be more interested in trying this as a varitone, and in effect, it IS a simple varitone....it "varies" the tone. :)

This is more like a "decade" control as used on the Les Paul Triumph bass. This is also very useful. A lot of people don't realize all the different tones you can get using smaller value caps in a tone control circuit.

True, and a good point. Of course if I posted "Simple Decade Control" no one would look ! :D

I've been saying for a while now that these are easy and cheap to make, instead of spending money for the (IMHO) over priced commercial version which will remain unnamed.

Absolutely. It takes very little skill, even less money, and does impart some radically different "character" on your bass.

I likes the commercial unit when I tried it in a bass, but can't see myself ever needing the 16 (or whatever) diferent tones. In reality, I don't even need the SIX you get from this, but I wanted to design it around a readily available rotary switch, and the 6 position was the one that could be bought at Radio Shack.

Thump on !
 
And 90% of them get lost in a live setting, and make you fiddle a lot when switching and to keep gain constant. Same with multiple passive circuits for multiple pickups which interact anyway, and an overabundance of coil-switching a phase switching. To an extent, some of that can be useful on guitars, but on basses it's just stuff that could be done better and easier by foot.

I've pretty much found that beyond THREE cap settings it's like having a 24-speed bike when you just need something that can cruise the boardwalk lookin' at babes on rollerblades, and leave a hand free for a beverage or gestures ; }

you could have three settings, if you wanted.. two cap value based and one passive filter.. or, the reverse..

others may find value in having more than three settings.. ;)
 
others may find value in having more than three settings.. ;)

I know. I've often seen them at gigs, messing with knobs and switches when they should be playing ; } ...Some of them hit the wrong stop/detent and are trying to get right, of course. At some point it makes better sense to do footwork for tonal changes when it comes to live work, I suppose is my underlying take on this.

I'm not knocking this project by the way. Great to see some sharing, and it does highlight how ridiculously overpriced at least a couple of the aftermarket varitone products are.
 
i know.. all those pesky settings.. and all those bassists with limited intelligence and coordination..

LOL...



I know. I've often seen them at gigs, messing with knobs and switches when they should be playing ; } ...Some of them hit the wrong stop/detent and are trying to get right, of course. At some point it makes better sense to do footwork for tonal changes when it comes to live work, I suppose is my underlying take on this.

I'm not knocking this project by the way. Great to see some sharing, and it does highlight how ridiculously overpriced at least a couple of the aftermarket varitone products are.
 
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