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A Trussrod Goof

teej

teej

Aug 19, 2004
2,952
919
40
Sheffield, AL 35660
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#1
Maybe I got ahead of myself, or I forgot, or perhaps I just wasn't thinking. Excuses aside, I didn't rout the trussrod channel before shaping the neck, and now I'm paying for it. :rollno: I'm ready to install the rod and glue on the fingerboard, but obviously I can't. I was thinking about clamping a flush piece of wood down as a guide for the channel, only to find out that no one makes a 1/4" router bit with a top-mounted guide bearing. So how would I go about doing this, considering the circumstances?
 
#2
Not sure how to phrase this but what if you made the guide piece "L" shaped so that it would ride above the cutting area of the router bit. It would have to be a VERY hard wood so the bit shaft didn't dent in and waver your route but it might work?.... good luck mate!
 
#4
You should be able to rig something pretty easily. Using the router base as a guide, you would only need to use a straight edge that is parallel to where the channel would be. Clamp that sucker to the bench so it doesn't rock. You can route it multiple passes or sections if the clamps need to be repositioned. hth.
 
#5
Maybe make a jig like this, then use you edge guide on the router. You can either screw in the nech from the underside of the jig as you would when attaching to a body or use clamps.

Neckjig.gif

Neckjig2.gif
 
#6
Hey Teej, this is the truss rod jig that i use. i learned this way from another TalkBasser though i dont think he posts here much anymore.

i think this would help you out in your situation and quite possibly make all of your wildest dreams come true. :D

i dont have this jig with me at the moment so i cant get bette pics of it but i can try to explain it if you want more clarification on it.

- Doug
 

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#8
That's what I need -- a good jig to "mount" the necks to. In the end, I made an "L" shaped guide, which I clamped parallel to the channel. It was a bit primitive, but I got a straight channel. Had a few rough spots (apparently, my 1/4" bit is more like 3/16"), but I'll smooth those out with some sandpaper.

Problem solved.
 

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