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Adding input jack to combo's speaker

Phreaky Phriday

Supporting Member
Apr 30, 2022
541
1,093
I have a rumble 40 combo and upgraded the speaker recently - it sounds good and i want to add an input jack to be able to use it as a cab for my trace Elliot elf head - the upgraded speaker is rated at more watts than the elf puts out at 8ohm, so it should be safe

What is the best way to go about this? Im guessing the simple solution would be to add a jack on the back as an output of internal amp and also an input jack for the speaker, then either run a 1/4" cable from rumble 40 amp to speaker or different head to speaker.

I know there switching jacks exist and look like they might be a better option that i am very open to - looks like they only have a few lugs to solder

Also, do i need special jacks to handle the 130 watts or would the same basic mono jack used on a bass guitar work?

Thanks!
 
This will work only if used for both output and input, no switching. This is the safest way to do this (and the input/output needs to be labeled).

That said, beware of switching because often the act of switching (or even plugging in) will momentarily short the tip and sleeve which can destroy some amps that aren't protected from this. On the larger Rumbles, this is compounded by the sleeve not being ground referenced, so the sleeves must be 100% isolated and this adds all kinds of new and more spectacular (and costly) failure possibilities).
 
This will work only if used for both output and input, no switching. This is the safest way to do this (and the input/output needs to be labeled).

That said, beware of switching because often the act of switching (or even plugging in) will momentarily short the tip and sleeve which can destroy some amps that aren't protected from this. On the larger Rumbles, this is compounded by the sleeve not being ground referenced, so the sleeves must be 100% isolated and this adds all kinds of new and more spectacular (and costly) failure possibilities).
Music to my ears - the simple solution is the safest :) thank you! I'll just add an input and output and try to label them with something glow in the dark or a cover over the output that would be closed by default (hinge above it possibly?). Idiot-proofing is critical here
 
One more dumb question, how to i pick the correct cable to run from the new input jack to the speaker? It's either surprisingly hard to find this info online or i am really bad at searching.

I have a spool of this monoprice 16AWG 2-conductor wire lying around and i'm guessing this is fine for a 1-2 foot length and only 130 watts, but don't want to catch my house on fire using something insufficient
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Thank you everyone for your advice! I implemented with a hinge that covers the amp-out jack when not in use - hopefully hard to plug into the wrong jack :)

Rumble 40 Back.jpg
 
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That will work, be sure that the metal shell of the 1/4" plugs doesn't touch ANY of the grounded metal parts of the chassis or any other plug's shell as the power amp may be damaged (when using the internal speaker).

It's better if you use a speaker cable with molded ends for this purpose.
 
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That will work, be sure that the metal shell of the 1/4" plugs doesn't touch ANY of the grounded metal parts of the chassis or any other plug's shell as the power amp may be damaged (when using the internal speaker).

It's better if you use a speaker cable with molded ends for this purpose.
Is this a general rule of thumb applicable to most heads and cabs or specific to how things are done with combo amps?
 
Thank you everyone for your advice! I implemented with a hinge that covers the amp-out jack when not in use - hopefully hard to plug into the wrong jack :)

View attachment 7361511
Creative jack cover!!!
Switchcraft makes these spring loaded jack covers, for a while some speakers at least had one of two jacks with those to cut down on air noise and or keep dirt out.
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Is this a general rule of thumb applicable to most heads and cabs or specific to how things are done with combo amps?
Any amp that uses a bridged output, most class D amps (including your combo) use a class D amp with BTL (Bridged) topology.