Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
adding wood to headstock so i can reshape?
- Thread starter warwick89
- Start date
Square edges will make your life easier, so perhaps using a jointer to give you flat areas to glue to. Then perhaps a nice cap of wood on the front and back to make it look less cobbled.
That's my 2 cents.
Dirk
That's my 2 cents.
Dirk
I wouldn't bother dowelling if the added material does not carry any load(s)- if the tuners will mount into new wood, then maybe.
Yeah, dowel it w/a similar(ideally the same)wood as the HS & redrill. I haven't done this, so hopefully a more-experienced TBer will chime in.
I am about to take on that challenge. I didn't measure twice and drilled my tuner holes in bad spots. So I am going to drill out each hole to 3/4" and fill with dowels. Then I am going to plane and veneer the headstock (again) and finally measure about 6 or 7 times an re-drill my tuner machine holes.
I'll let you know how it goes. Not sure exactly when I am going to get to it but hopefully it will be in the next few weeks.
mikeyswood
Inactive
I had the best luck by filling with epoxy and redrilling. A dowel will put end grain where you would want face grain.
Not if you make your own plug(which, technically, may not be a dowel)- I've see plug-cutting bits in various sizes. If the headstock gets overlain(laid?
)w/a veneer & the holes are drilled using a drill press and the HS is securely clamped down, I'd think it should be alright to go w/off-the-rack dowels.
I thought of that and decide to cut my own plugs from the exact same wood as the headstock blank. I had a good bit of left over and was able to get 5 really nice, perfectly sized plugs to fill the hole I bored out using a forstner bit.
I am actually putting the plugs in as I type - well, you know what I mean...
I expect them to work beautifully. I am going to cover the top and bottom with a veneers and re-drill after.
mikeyswood
Inactive
We'll leave all 'typing while...' jokes out of the conversation for the sake of, well that's just wrong...
Here are some pix of the process...
Handful of hard maple, 5/8" plugs, freshly cut from the same blank the headstock came from...
Nice, snug fit...
Glued in - grain all carefully rotated to match direction for the hell of it...
Up close and personal...
After the glue cures for a few days I'll flush-cut/otherwise get the excess removed, add a very thin veneer of curly maple and re-drill the new holes. After measuring and plotting their locations say five or six times - and then double checking...
Here are some pix of the process...
Handful of hard maple, 5/8" plugs, freshly cut from the same blank the headstock came from...
Nice, snug fit...
Glued in - grain all carefully rotated to match direction for the hell of it...
Up close and personal...
After the glue cures for a few days I'll flush-cut/otherwise get the excess removed, add a very thin veneer of curly maple and re-drill the new holes. After measuring and plotting their locations say five or six times - and then double checking...
As you said, coolio!
I didn't know that Titebond set up and could be worked with so quickly after use. I have been working on the general assumption that all wood glue should set up for a good 24 hours before 'messing with it'. But I am sure it depends on what 'messing with it' means. In this case, trimming the plugs to size and slapping on my veneers could be done a few hours after installing the plugs.
I didn't know that Titebond set up and could be worked with so quickly after use. I have been working on the general assumption that all wood glue should set up for a good 24 hours before 'messing with it'. But I am sure it depends on what 'messing with it' means. In this case, trimming the plugs to size and slapping on my veneers could be done a few hours after installing the plugs.
yeah, it says right on the bottle, that the glue should be let sit for a minimum of 3 hours i think before putting stress on it.
