I need a brief tutorial on lubing the adjusters. My adjusters have slowly, but surely lost their lube to the point that I risk moving the entire bridge foot when trying to adjust. I've seen this here, but after an unsuccessful search thought I'd seek council with you. I forgot what the preferred lubes are and any "knucklehead" tips will be appreciated to save me from getting in trouble.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Double Bass Adjustable bridge question
- Thread starter Sam Reese
- Start date
The two kinds of lube I use for adjuster wheels are candle wax (common), and graphite dust (hardware store, usually sold in a small tube for janky locks). All you have to do is loosen your strings, secure the post, take down the bridge and lube the threads up, then put Humpty back together again. With the graphite, you can squirt it into the threaded hole, but with the candle wax you just literally rub the adjuster threads on a candle.
Last time I did this was years ago and the only candle I had was a scented one, so my bass smelled like cinnamon for a hot minute there. But years later, the adjuster wheels still turn fine.
Last time I did this was years ago and the only candle I had was a scented one, so my bass smelled like cinnamon for a hot minute there. But years later, the adjuster wheels still turn fine.
Wax as a lubricant is magic. It saved my butt on many ugly automotive repair jobs.
Whatever you do, don't use any kind of oil. Oil soaked wood is not desirable.
I'd probably go with beeswax. Anyone who does any kind of work with wood should keep some of this around.
Tapping machine threads into wood is, to be quite honest, a lousy idea anyway. Really, they ought to use brass inserts for the threads. But no one does. I wouldn't retap unless there is clear and obvious evidence that it's needed - you really don't need to be taking material away from the already weak threads in wood. Probably if you take the parts off, put a good coat of beeswax on the threads, and work it back and forth before reinstalling, you'll be fine. Don't forget the surface of the knurled wheel, if your adjusters are the kind where the face of the wheel bears on the wood of the bridge. If yours is one where the UNthreaded part of the adjuster also rotates in an UNthreaded hole in the wood, lube that too.
I'd probably go with beeswax. Anyone who does any kind of work with wood should keep some of this around.
Tapping machine threads into wood is, to be quite honest, a lousy idea anyway. Really, they ought to use brass inserts for the threads. But no one does. I wouldn't retap unless there is clear and obvious evidence that it's needed - you really don't need to be taking material away from the already weak threads in wood. Probably if you take the parts off, put a good coat of beeswax on the threads, and work it back and forth before reinstalling, you'll be fine. Don't forget the surface of the knurled wheel, if your adjusters are the kind where the face of the wheel bears on the wood of the bridge. If yours is one where the UNthreaded part of the adjuster also rotates in an UNthreaded hole in the wood, lube that too.
They do make brass adjusters with brass inserts that go into the bridge. Honestly they aren't any good. Thats why you don't see them often. They are very heavy and don't transmit the vibrations through the bridge into the top table. Tapping the threads into maple works well. Occasional maintenance is needed like any other part of the instrument.
