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Advice for adding casters

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by apollo bass, Mar 26, 2016.


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  1. I've just bought an Ampeg BA210V2 combo. It's the new version that is designed to be tilted back 60 degrees (like a monitor). It's not big but at near 63, toting around even the relatively lightweight 46 pounds can be a chore. I'm thinking of adding casters purely for mobility. Any advice on size and type? As I'll be sitting the amp on its designed tilt when on stage I don't worry about the need to take them on and off - they'll stay on, but I don't want any rattles or anything so big they become obtrusive.

    I do have a little collapsible dolly as an option. Can I just screw these on or do I need to worry about damaging anything inside the amp? Any advice?
     
  2. BasturdBlaster

    BasturdBlaster

    Feb 19, 2012
    Crandon WI
    Personally, I prefer the "pop" casters though they require you to commit fully as they require a large hole, having the driver out is a must when adding them to clear the drilling debris out from inside the cab and for making sure the bit doesn't hit the interior goods.

    In your case, I would be more inclined to add the type that simply screw on, no biggy when removed with only small screw holes that won't even be visible with carpet covering (if it has carpet, tolex I suppose if it's an Ampeg).

    As far as rattles go, I used to stack a 410 on it's side which had loose worn out pop casters, I would always leave the casters in place and I never once heard them make noise.

    From memory, 2" seems like a standard size and both styles can be sourced easily from the net, example-- Search | Amplified Parts

    That's all I got, hope it helps:)
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2016
  3. samson3382

    samson3382

    Apr 26, 2009
    Boise, Idaho
    I had good results with some 2" wheels from Home Depot. Rated at 90 lbs a piece I think. I also added a thin piece of wood between the cab and mounting plate as a bit of a spacer. I pre drilled the holes, and squirted a tiny bit of wood glue in the holes before mounting. At times they had over 160 pounds of cabs and amps on them and never had an issue.

    After at least 10 years of use, one wheel did develop a flat spot, when I went to replace it I remembered how cheap they were and just went ahead and did all 4.
    You could also build a flat cart to size, but I've never gone that route, just more gear to keep track of in my opinion.
     
  4. When adding castors , the bigger the better. I have an old Peavey 2 15 cab that I just screwed some 4" wheels to the bottom. I can push it around on a hard floor or even carpet with one finger. With the big wheels on it , it can be pushed around on grass if it's not too rough and even on a small gravel surface. Don't know what such big wheels will do for the tilt back factor.
    As far as rattling , I used to run a 4 10 on top of an 18.:bag: Both had 3' wheels on them. I just turned the 4 10 on its side and never heard a rattle out of the castors.
    Just for reference , the 2 15 with the 4' wheels pushed much easier than either the 4 10 or the 18 with the 3' wheels on them.
     
  5. Thanks guys. 3" seems it might be overkill for the size of the amp/cab but I'd prefer to do this only once. Anyone have any experience with the Mesa Trac Lock casters? Pricey but they give you the removable option without having to drill holes like the Ernie Ball casters require.
     

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