Am I killing new strings as I restring?

[ChronicPyromaniac]

I’ve realized that over the last dozen or so sets of strings I’ve put on, quite a few E strings have gone on and not been new and zingy sounding like the other strings in the set. Could I be grinding them down as I pull them through the bridge or something? For strings I’ve been vacillating through DR Sunbeams, Pure Blues, and EB Cobalt Slinkies, and I’ve had it happen with each of these different types of strings.

Any input or advice?

 

[mambo4]

If the issue persists across multiple brands of strings It might be something other than strings.
- the pickup height under the e string
- the nut of the e string
- the bridge under the e string
- your ears

 

[JohnnyChatter]

Post a few pictures of your bass and its action and what not.

 

[DaveParker39]

I’ve realized that over the last dozen or so sets of strings I’ve put on, quite a few E strings have gone on and not been new and zingy sounding like the other strings in the set. Could I be grinding them down as I pull them through the bridge or something? For strings I’ve been vacillating through DR Sunbeams, Pure Blues, and EB Cobalt Slinkies, and I’ve had it happen with each of these different types of strings.

Any input or advice?

I doubt it's that... maybe an issue with the nut slot or saddle slot for the low E needing adjusted, the string could be sitting above those slots rather than in them

 

[gricko]

strings with larger girth you first need to bend 90º with pliers and then cut off extra string
no cutting before bending

winding around core tends to get loose if the string is cut before bending

 

[Zooberwerx]

I’ve realized that over the last dozen or so sets of strings I’ve put on, quite a few E strings have gone on and not been new and zingy sounding like the other strings in the set. Could I be grinding them down as I pull them through the bridge or something? For strings I’ve been vacillating through DR Sunbeams, Pure Blues, and EB Cobalt Slinkies, and I’ve had it happen with each of these different types of strings.

Any input or advice?

Usually a bad or incomplete install (...sans break angles, witness points, etc.) and / or bad set-up which does not accommodate the larger diameter string(s).

Riis

 

[michael_t]

Maybe you can try this and see what happens...

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/witness-points-the-pictorial.1217291/

 

[Ewo]

I figure the most likely explanation is the dreaded twisted string--meaning the way you're installing the new strings traps some amount of torque (rotational force) when the string is brought up to pitch.

That happens if you seat the ball end firmly at the bridge, and then cut the string to length and wind up the tuner. The ball end wants to rotate a bit, but it can't.

It's easy to avoid. Leave the ball end about an inch or inch-and-a-half out from the bridge. Measure what you need at the tuner, make the right angle bend, cut the excess length, and start winding the tuner to bring the string up to pitch. When the string starts pulling the ball end into the bridge, check if the string wants to rotate. That's the pent up torque. Release it, and finish coming up to pitch.

 

[Chrisk-K]

The thicker strings lose their zing and brightness faster than the thinner ones. That’s just the way physical laws work.

 

[Steve Cooke]

I figure the most likely explanation is the dreaded twisted string--meaning the way you're installing the new strings traps some amount of torque (rotational force) when the string is brought up to pitch.

That happens if you seat the ball end firmly at the bridge, and then cut the string to length and wind up the tuner. The ball end wants to rotate a bit, but it can't.

It's easy to avoid. Leave the ball end about an inch or inch-and-a-half out from the bridge. Measure what you need at the tuner, make the right angle bend, cut the excess length, and start winding the tuner to bring the string up to pitch. When the string starts pulling the ball end into the bridge, check if the string wants to rotate. That's the pent up torque. Release it, and finish coming up to pitch.

This is something I just started paying attn to - along with witness points. I'm thinking if the string is twisted a bit, you could loosen it until the ball end is free to move and untwist itself, then re-tune?

 

[Ewo]

This is something I just started paying attn to - along with witness points. I'm thinking if the string is twisted a bit, you could loosen it until the ball end is free to move and untwist itself, then re-tune?

Yep--that'll work. You'll prolly want to help it get untwisted; just rotate the string with your fingers, clockwise and counterclockwise. If the string had a twist in it, you'll feel it unwind.

The string needs to be loose enough that you can pick it up off the bridge saddle, to let the full length untwist.

 

[Killing Floor]

What’s the timeline? How quickly? Because round E strings tend to fade brightness more quickly than smaller. But right upon installation is a problem.

 

[Dust2Dust]

strings with larger girth you first need to bend 90º with pliers and then cut off extra string
no cutting before bending

winding around core tends to get loose if the string is cut before bending

I just learned something Thanks

 

[ChronicPyromaniac]

Thanks for all the thoughts and replies. A little more information:

This issue is happening across multiple basses, so unless four or five basses all have the same setup issues, I doubt it has to do with pickup height, nut slots, etc. These basses have all been set up for the .105 Es that these sets have.

I tried untwisting the string and it had no effect.

Witness points are being set during the restringing process, and I check the break angle over the bridge as well (less of an issue on the two that are string-through body)

Finally, the string appears to have that broken in sound from install. I’m wondering if I’m grinding it on the bridge holes and unintentionally making a ground wound string in the process.