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YES, but they are convinced that it is "essential" in achieving their desired sound.
What do you guys think about the load going to the 115, 275w going to a cab only rated for 200w? i figured its only overpowered by 75 watts so...
The 200 watt rating is the speaker's THERMAL rating, which means little or nothing in the real world of playing bass. Your little amp can still kill the speaker with over-excursion, which is how I predict it will someday die.What do you guys think about the load going to the 115, 275w going to a cab only rated for 200w? i figured its only overpowered by 75 watts so...
So a 200w cab should be comfortable taking even 400watts of output from your amp. That's what I was always told and it worked for me.
TimC's point is right on though -- you should have plenty of "power," but you, and the band, should work on refining your overall mix. Mastering that can really help end volume wars, and will make more people like your band!
I came to understand "underpowering" as a misunderstood and under-explained concept -- with my stereo I was just told "more people blow speakers by underpowering them than overpowering them"...and then wouldn't explain why or how -- they just wanted me to buy a bigger amp. I'm no expert, but what I've heard over time is this: a big danger to your speakers is having the cones pushed out non-stop for long stretches -- as you get when your signal is clipping non-stop. Hence the "set gain to just trip the clip light" -- frequent brief clipping isn't a problem, but steady clipping is. So the underpowering problem comes up when you play, say, a 200 watt amp into a 1000w cab, but to get loud enough at a show you crank that amp to the point of non-stop clipping -- THAT will kill your cab, even though it's rated at 1000w. So it's the clipping, not the power. But low-powered amp + overly loud band = maxed out amp which in turn = clipped signal that destroys your speakers; so you can see why someone might point to the amp's power as the issue...but the same scenario would destroy a 100w cab, so it's not really the amp-to-cab power ratio...
As for your rig, in your shoes, I'd see it like this: 500w cab + 200w cab = 700watts, 1400watts max; 550w amp...No issues. And if that rig isn't loud enough, then my band isn't very good at mixing itself, and my hearing is doomed.
I played in a 5-piece with two brilliant guitarists with great screaming tube tone...never needed more than my 300w swr, a 4x10 and a 1x15. Later I changed to a Schroeder 2x10, 1x12 (21012...something ridiculous like 1400watts RMS) and my same 300watt swr...never had a problem -- it all came down to the fact that they were extremely good at setting the band's overall mix.
Your setup is fine!
ltt
So a 200w cab should be comfortable taking even 400watts of output from your amp. That's what I was always told and it worked for me.
TimC's point is right on though -- you should have plenty of "power," but you, and the band, should work on refining your overall mix. Mastering that can really help end volume wars, and will make more people like your band!
I came to understand "underpowering" as a misunderstood and under-explained concept -- with my stereo I was just told "more people blow speakers by underpowering them than overpowering them"...and then wouldn't explain why or how -- they just wanted me to buy a bigger amp. I'm no expert, but what I've heard over time is this: a big danger to your speakers is having the cones pushed out non-stop for long stretches -- as you get when your signal is clipping non-stop. Hence the "set gain to just trip the clip light" -- frequent brief clipping isn't a problem, but steady clipping is. So the underpowering problem comes up when you play, say, a 200 watt amp into a 1000w cab, but to get loud enough at a show you crank that amp to the point of non-stop clipping -- THAT will kill your cab, even though it's rated at 1000w. So it's the clipping, not the power. But low-powered amp + overly loud band = maxed out amp which in turn = clipped signal that destroys your speakers; so you can see why someone might point to the amp's power as the issue...but the same scenario would destroy a 100w cab, so it's not really the amp-to-cab power ratio...
As for your rig, in your shoes, I'd see it like this: 500w cab + 200w cab = 700watts, 1400watts max; 550w amp...No issues. And if that rig isn't loud enough, then my band isn't very good at mixing itself, and my hearing is doomed.
I played in a 5-piece with two brilliant guitarists with great screaming tube tone...never needed more than my 300w swr, a 4x10 and a 1x15. Later I changed to a Schroeder 2x10, 1x12 (21012...something ridiculous like 1400watts RMS) and my same 300watt swr...never had a problem -- it all came down to the fact that they were extremely good at setting the band's overall mix.
Your setup is fine!
ltt
Sure, you can run a 400 watt amp into a 200 watt cab. Usually it's not actually putting out 400 watts, because it isn't turned up all the way with a constant signal through it.
The 200 watt rating of a cab comes from measuring at what sustained power the voice coil stops working due to thermal damage. The speaker can fail due to overexcursion far before this if too much low end is dialed in.
A 500 watt cab plus a 200 watt cab is not the same as having a 700 watt cab....
Find some adults to work with.YES, but they are convinced that it is "essential" in achieving their desired sound.
One more thing the "danger" to a 1000watt cab from a heavy driven 200watt amp is to the high frequency drivers (like horns, small mids and ribbon or small cone tweeters), the woofers will care less.