Amp/Cab pairing problems

[BogeyBass]

^ yes exactly, been told carvin speakers are now relabeled china speakers.

before that since the 80's Carvin speakers are relabeled or custom design Eminence speakers.

basically a carvin 4ohm stamp frame 15 is a relabeled Eminence Legend CA154 = junk
and a carvin 8ohm cast frame 15 is a Eminence CA158

which is the exact same factory speaker that is already been replaced and blown

The dont call them "legend" speakers for the heck of it, almost every single manufacture
has used the 10" 12" and 15" legends in just about every decent factory cabinet
since the late 70's and manufactures from carvin to ampeg to fender have all just relabeled them

simply use matching 2x15
or use 410 the spl ratings are the same.

no mismatched speakers phase cancel mess of over EQ blown madness.

Fender and Sunn figured this out 46 years ago, use a 2x15
then re figured it out 33 years ago again when people wanted smaller cabinets use a 410.
then figured it out again 15 years ago for a smaller lighter package use a Neo 2x12.....

matching speakers..the more the merry

 

[jmcorn]

No, do not do this. Wattage ratings are not the end all be all. Please don't take the above advice, as it will only end poorly again. Matching cabs handle power evenly, and provide much better performance overall. Listen to the majority of experienced people here who are giving you sound advice.

There plenty of people who run A 410 with a 15" with no problems. It would cost him $100 to try a different 15. it would cost him $600 to buy another 410 cab. I run an Eden 810 with a 15" with an eden WT 800 with no problems every Sunday. I don't see the difference if you run a 600 watt 15" with a 600 watt 410.

 

[BogeyBass]

There plenty of people who run A 410 with a 15" with no problems. It would cost him $100 to try a different 15. it would cost him $600 to buy another 410 cab. I run an Eden 810 with a 15" with an eden WT 800 with no problems every Sunday. I don't see the difference if you run a 600 watt 15" with a 600 watt 410.

as said manufactures ratings are over rated thermal ratings no actual mechanical distortion ratings.

There is no such thing as a off the shelf 600watt 15inch and a off the shelf 600 watt 4x10, i know that is what the "website" might say or the manufacture claims it...but it is just not true.

Likewise as said a single "600 watt" 15" is going to be 96dB and a "600" watt 410 is going to be 98dB

the 410 is twice as loud, you just cant hear the 15" at high levels, do a blind test with your buddys, play with the 410 and 115 plugged in and play with just the 410 plugged in at a high level. dont let them tell you what setup is what.

You will not hear the difference, or when the 15 is running you will hear more of a scooped sound to the mix, because the 15 is adding nothing to the Mix, it is just canceling frequencies and will work more like a filter than adding total SPL to the mix.

Likewise think of Double the sound pressure, or twice the volume like double twice of anything.

Like have sex with one woman
then have sex with 2 women at the same time.

Do you think you will notice the difference?

flush 20$ down the toilet
then flush 40$ down the toilet


which one is going to hurt more?

what is it about twice as loud that makes no sense
the 15 does nothing the 410 is twice as loud.

the 15 has a different phase response it does not add anything
it cancels removes sound.

People like the mismatched driver sound because it gives you the same scoped sound that everybody thinks that sounds good but gets lost in the mix. Except its not a EQ removing the midrange its 100 of watts of power being wasted to remove the midrange and torturing a single 15 as well.

if you want a scope sound just turn down the midrange.

if you actually want to be heard and not blow 115's all day long then just use matching drivers.

either 2x15 or 410 so so simple

 

[jmcorn]

I have found that the 15 adds some low end thump that the 10" just struggles to reproduce especially with a low B. Anyway I should have mentioned that I do run 2 channels when I add the 15 to the 810. It is as simple as adjusting the balance knob to get the right mix between the two cabs. Seriously though, I removed the 15 for a month mainly based on all of the TB threads that scream don't mix cabs. But when I did I felt like I lost some of the bottom end.

Also do you have the same problems running 10's on the stage and running through a PA with 15 or 18" subs? Just curious. I have to carry my own sound so I am not sure.

 

[CL400Peavey]

Like have sex with one woman
then have sex with 2 women at the same time.

Do you think you will notice the difference?

flush 20$ down the toilet
then flush 40$ down the toilet


which one is going to hurt more?

I think this post wins the internet today...

I have found that the 15 adds some low end thump that the 10" just struggles to reproduce especially with a low B.

Then you are playing crappy cabs to begin with. Driver size has nothing to do with the low end production of a cab. Dont believe me? Go plan an ACME or a fEARless F110.

 

[astack]

Both Hartke and Ampeg are 8-Ohms, the amp is 8 or 4 ohms which I have set to 8ohms.

Setting that switch to 8 ohms turns your 500W amp into effectively a 1000W amp (at 4 ohms or 500W at 8 ohms). It was tested in Bass Gear Mag, and they showed how the switch changed the limiter to run the power amp hotter. That Orange head is the only solid state head I know of that has that kind of switch.

So there was A LOT more juice going into the speakers than you thought.

At the end of the day, it's kinda crummy that the marketing/manuals don't explain what's really going on with your gear that leads to these problems (thermal vs mechanical limits and the weird "tap switch" on the SS head). That's why we have TB

 

[Munjibunga]

The stuff in red sounds reasonable to me.