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Amp fried when soundchecking... what happened?

Meter.
There's one in my 'useless' surge protector that lights up even before any of the individual outlets are switched on. The sequential switch and LED racklights - and the voltage display - are the only reasons I have it instead of a power strip - I have no illusions it is 'conditioning' my power...

I have subjected DarkGlass pedal DI's to 48V phantom power on numerous occasions - DarkGlass knows how to implement DI's.
A $5 outlet tester is an excellent investment. I've already encountered 2 venues with ungrounded outlets...

Be sure to check the meter in the power strip with a known good meter, I have seen some really poorly calibrated power strip meters.

Had one player at the venue rip me a new ******* about the voltage being too high (normal here in commercial theatres is between 120 and 125V) because his meter was reading >130V. Put my Fluke on the line and it was 123V, right where it should be. Never got an apology, just a grunt of acceptance.
 
Be sure to check the meter in the power strip with a known good meter, I have seen some really poorly calibrated power strip meters.

Had one player at the venue rip me a new ******* about the voltage being too high (normal here in commercial theatres is between 120 and 125V) because his meter was reading >130V. Put my Fluke on the line and it was 123V, right where it should be. Never got an apology, just a grunt of acceptance.
ha, musicians, what-a-ya gonna do with 'em :D
grouchy bastids

personally, I am always very polite with my sound guys
 
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*** A $5 outlet tester is an excellent investment. I've already encountered 2 venues with ungrounded outlets...
Be sure to read the recent thread here about the limitations of that 3-light receptacle tester. The articles linked in that thread describe some of the conditions that the tester can't detect which can fry you, or just your amp if you're lucky, such as a reverse-wired receptacle with a "bootleg" ground (tying the "ground" to the hot terminal!) which shows up "all good" on the 3-light tester! I bought a VoltAlert sensor to see if receptacles are reverse-wired with a hot ground after reading that thread.

Here's the thread: That little A/C receptacle tester....
 
A ground fault kind of situation may well have been what fried your amp, but I wouldn't necessarily blame what happened on faulty AC wiring. Maybe yes. Maybe no.

Your new Darkglass no doubt has a three prong AC plug which is polarized and grounded. What about the sound board? If the soundboard is ancient as you mentioned, it probably does not even have a polarized two prong AC plug. Polarized AC plugs may not have been universally adopted back when that particular piece of equipment was manufactured. If the AC plug is not polarized or not properly wired for whatever reason and that old board happened to be plugged in so that the chassis was hot, then as mentioned, you might essentially have had what amounts to AC mains on the braid of the mic line between your Darkglass and the soundboard. An undesirable and potentially lethal situation.

My point is, understand this can happen even if the AC stage wiring is okay. It can happen even if the AC wiring in the booth is okay. Under certain circumstances, it could happen if one night the sound guy adds a piece of gear in the booth that happens to have faulty AC wiring. Testing AC power on stage is mandatory. Don’t let it make you think everything is okay. Maybe yes. Maybe no. How low can you go? Six feet.

If you play in bars, learn about single phase and three phase power, delta / star / Y, etc. Because eventually you’ll see every conceivable way known, and some unknown ways to screw up AC power. It’s amazing these kinds of establishments don’t burn down more often than they do. But then, that’s another story.
 
To repeat, it could save your life to learn the limitations of that little tester. Note that "two of these things are not like the other" but they all show "good":

307ecmOTpic1.jpg
 
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Only in recent years has the industry recognized the value of protecting rather than taking a chance on failure. Under-voltage events can upset the operating conditions within the amp, and in the good 'ol days it was more common to see an amp fail. Now, we protect the amps from failure through the use of more comprehensive protection systems that shut the amp down before failure occurs. We are even protecting amps from over-voltage conditions (nowhere near as common), something that we have been doing for a few years now. Much of this is driven by longer and longer warranty periods that are available from the higher end manufacturers.

Now I'm pretty familiar with the legacy Trace amps (the company I worked for owned Trace for a while), and while they usually didn't go into protection from a low line voltage event, they did suffer from failures under these conditions. Not that often, but often enough to be a pain (and a cost) to customers.

So, as a tradeoff between inconvenient protection shutdown or costly failure, which would you prefer?
A ground fault kind of situation may well have been what fried your amp, but I wouldn't necessarily blame what happened on faulty AC wiring. Maybe yes. Maybe no.

Your new Darkglass no doubt has a three prong AC plug which is polarized and grounded. What about the sound board? If the soundboard is ancient as you mentioned, it probably does not even have a polarized two prong AC plug. Polarized AC plugs may not have been universally adopted back when that particular piece of equipment was manufactured. If the AC plug is not polarized or not properly wired for whatever reason and that old board happened to be plugged in so that the chassis was hot, then as mentioned, you might essentially have had what amounts to AC mains on the braid of the mic line between your Darkglass and the soundboard. An undesirable and potentially lethal situation.

My point is, understand this can happen even if the AC stage wiring is okay. It can happen even if the AC wiring in the booth is okay. Under certain circumstances, it could happen if one night the sound guy adds a piece of gear in the booth that happens to have faulty AC wiring. Testing AC power on stage is mandatory. Don’t let it make you think everything is okay. Maybe yes. Maybe no. How low can you go? Six feet.

If you play in bars, learn about single phase and three phase power, delta / star / Y, etc. Because eventually you’ll see every conceivable way known, and some unknown ways to screw up AC power. It’s amazing these kinds of establishments don’t burn down more often than they do. But then, that’s another story.

I'm not so sure the amp is actually fried because it still plays at full volume at home? By the way, I've had nice & helpful communications with the Darkglass people.
 
I'm not so sure the amp is actually fried because it still plays at full volume at home? By the way, I've had nice & helpful communications with the Darkglass people.
Correct, this is my best guess as well.

I suggest that you continue working with Doug at Darkgkass, I'm sure he will help you get this sorted out.
 
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Is that an experiment that you performed?

Maybe I'm missing something but from what I read all the Voltalert tells you is that an energized circuit is present.

And it may not respond at all in a low voltage situation.
The answers are in the articles linked in the thread I cited. The article's link to an electrician's forum was especially helpful and that forum thread wasn't overly long to read through. Read the thread and links, seriously.
 
The answers are in the articles linked in the thread I cited. The article's link to an electrician's forum was especially helpful and that forum thread wasn't overly long to read through. Read the thread and links, seriously.

I found the references to the Voltalert in the thread and skimmed through it a bit. It would take a while to go through all 9 pages of posts.

Regardless, that thread doesn't change the fact that the Voltalert only senses the presence of an energized circuit.

If it does more than that, please point me to the Fluke document.
 
I found the references to the Voltalert in the thread and skimmed through it a bit. It would take a while to go through all 9 pages of posts.

Regardless, that thread doesn't change the fact that the Voltalert only senses the presence of an energized circuit.

If it does more than that, please point me to the Fluke document.
You plug in your 3-light tester and the receptacle reads "good." Now you put the voltage sensor in the neutral slot (wider of the two slots) and you get get an alert. "Hot" side reads no voltage. You now know you have a potentially fatal reverse-bootleg receptacle.

It will pay off to read those articles carefully--not the forum thread, but the linked articles. I can't remember if the link to the electrical forum is in the TB thread or in the article, but go there as well for some discussion among the electricians. As I recall, that thread was only two pages. Peace, Bob