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Ampeg 410hlf Wiring problem...

So, I blew a speaker in my Ampeg410HLF cab a couple years ago, and I'm finally getting around to replacing the speaker.

I drew up a diagram as I pulled out the bottom 2 speakers so I would be able to re-wire everything without any problems... however, now that I'm looking at the diagram I drew and the wires hanging around in there, it looks like I'm missing a small black wire, and I have a separate black wire coming off of another (split).

So, I have tried searching the internet and forums and such looking for diagrams to see if maybe I just drew mine wrong, but I can't find anything...

If anyone has any input, it would be greatly appreciated...
 
IIRC, the 410HLF uses four 4 ohm 10" speakers, wired series/parallel so that you end up with a 4 ohm load.

so it should be wired like this:

4x10series-_parallel.gif
 
I think that is too many wires...but resembles how my 410HLF came from the factory. It's much easier (and definately correct) to connect the drivers in series, and parallel the pairs down to get your final 2 wires that go to the amp. John's drawing has the purple lines which are the series part from + to - of the driver pair, then the Red line connects all remaining +'s to the + output of the amp, and the purple is connecting all of the -'s to the - of the amp.
 
I'm having the same issue... But, how is the horn assembly wired in with the speakers?

Why does one diagram show 4 16Ohm speakers, and the other shows 4 4Ohm speakers?

FWIW, mine has 4 4Ohm speakers.
 
I used that 16ohm diagram because that was really all I could find on the internet that looked like it was wired how i did it.

it's the same using 4ohm speakers, the only thing that would be different is the final impedance. (4ohms rather than 16ohms as the diagram I posted)

are you trying to disconnect the horn? I don't think you should have a problem with the speakers if you wire it like I did.
 
Ideally, I'd like to wire it back up as it was from the factory (i.e. with the horn)...

The issues I have are:

1) From the attenuator assembly, there are four wires (white, blue, red, black). I don't really remember what the blue and white wires are for. (I thought that the blue and white wires were connected to the horn.) I have left over one black wire with a single connection point on one end, and that leads to two connection points on the other end (like a y-shaped wire). I thought that this came off of the horn, but again, I'm not sure.

2) The horn is 8Ohms, correct? But, in stock form, the cabinet is 4Ohms... There are 4 4Ohm speakers wired in series-parallel, so that totals a 4Ohm load, how is the load of the horn brought into the mix?

3) I have 4 Ohm speakers as replacements... So, Ideally, I'd like to make this an 8Ohm cabinet. I'm pretty sure this is possible, but do I have to not use the horn in order to do this? I think the answer to question two above will help me out.
 
I realize I can't wire four 4Ohm speakers to be 8Ohms... But, I will be using four 8Ohm speakers to be 8Ohms.... (so I can maintain the same factory wiring scheme in order to do this). I just realized I didn't write that correctly above.

Like I said, I just don't know how to wire it up... Here's what everything looks like in case it helps:

Ampeg-1.jpg


The Horn has a positive and negative side, each with two posts for the connectors. Likewise, the speakers do too, I just didn't show it in the diagram.

I am showing the jumpers that I have... But, I may (or may not) be missing one (I may have misplaced one or more in the garage).
 
Wasn't there a thread on this cab a few months back where a guy was trying to locate a "problem driver" but the problem did NOT follow the drivers as he swapped them around inside the cab? Subsequently, I believe, someone from Ampeg posted a wiring diagram for that cab in that same thread, and this is why I mention it here. I could be wrong -- it was a while ago. If you can't find the thread using the cab model in your search, just search on my posts until you find the thread; I haven't posted too much on this board so it won't be all that painful time-wise.