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Ampeg 810 - give me the logistics scoop please

#22
ETThompson said:
I"m wondering if anyone has tried building some kind of skids or rails so you can roll it down without doing it step by step. They'd have to be removable though since I couldn't leave them in place. Is this a crazy idea?
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I have a piece of ¾" plywood, couple of feet wide that I use as a ramp with heavy cabinets. It allows me to manipulate things into the back seat of my car. I put the cab on the ramp and then lift the bottom end of the ramp and slide the cab in. Makes it very easy to load awkward gear.

Not sure how something like this would extend to 6-7 stairs. A hand truck works well on stairs but it depends on the tread width and rise of the stair. If you have non standard tread rise and runs, it is harder.
 
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#23
I would be looking for something like this which allows the wheels to go down the ramp and you can walk down the stairs in between. If you have a ramp that covers all of the stairs you will really struggle to get down 7 of them.

WR5.jpg
 
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#24
Happynog, that's what I had in mind, except maybe in wood? Although if I could buy something that might be an advantage. Looks like that one would be difficult for the 810 because of the side rails. I definitely had ruled out a sheet for the reason you mention.
 
#25
sinbad7 said:
This is exactly how I load my 810. I don't have an ampeg, I have a carvin and it is MUCH lighter. I have used ampeg 810s in the past and I would hate trying to go up/down stairs on my own.
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Same here. Funny, I have the same van as the one in the vid, Ford Windstar. What a POS. but....my SVT fits in there, so I keep it.:bassist:

I use the same technique to get it up onto stages. Way easier than my 410, which I HATE moving.

That said, anything more than three stairs and it stays home. I've done stairs solo, but it gets hairy, lucky I haven't sent it through a wall a few times on the way down.
 
#27
Must be nice. When I had a V9 cabinet (9x10) NOBODY wanted to help me move it. And it really wasnt that bad - except during the summer when it's 90+ degrees out, high humidity and it has to go up 10 wooden steps and you're the only person moving it. It's gigs like that when I'd rather (and do now) move 2 4x10 cabinets.

Also. Dino. I hate to burst your bubble, but when I moved my 9x10 cabinet the speakers face the side of the van. Nomatter how you pack it, something always seems to slide around and smack into the back (which could have very well taken out a speaker) of the cabinet. So yes, to give myself alot of room to pack things, my 9x10 cabinet went in on its side.
 
#29
I had one and I left it at the rehearsal space between gigs. This way a band mate was always available when we loaded out. I always asked for a hand loading into the grand Cherokee, just to make it super easy. Yes, it can be done by yourself, but it helped save the tolex to always have another hand. Stairs can be gone down as long as the tread is deep enough, but again, it's better safe than sorry.
 
#30
ETThompson said:
I just got a Heritage SVT and the long term plan is to get a matching 810. My bandmates will help me with it on that end, but at home I have a short (6-7) basement stairs to get it up and down. I could ask my wife, but given that she is pretty opposed to the 810 altogether, I can't play that card very often.

I"m wondering if anyone has tried building some kind of skids or rails so you can roll it down without doing it step by step. They'd have to be removable though since I couldn't leave them in place. Is this a crazy idea?
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They make a 3 wheel hand truck that walks the stairs. They have a motorized one also which is a lot more. Pretty expensive but who can put a price on your back.

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#31
If you don't like moving a 410HLF you definitely will not like moving an 810. I've owned both cabs and now use two 410HE cabs. I had an 810 for several years. I had an SUV which lined up perfectly with the top of my porch so I just wheeled the cabinet out of my front door and then laid it down to get into the SUV. I soon realized that I was better off with two 410 cabs. If you play small clubs a 410 should be fine. If you play larger clubs or outdoor venues, you will probably have PA support. Sounds to me like you are using a much bigger cab than is needed.
 
#32
I'm 61 and have been using them for 35+ years, I find them easier to move than lugging the head which is always dead weight. I have the old early 70's cabs though and they are lighter than the new ones and do have handles on them (pre-towel bar). I find them to be more articulate and punchy than 2 x 15 cabs. I do have the experience of other members here with them though, when people see you coming with an SVT (head or cab) they seem to scatter very quickly, uhh.... I gotta go lock my car. I just put 4 wheels on mine where the dolly goes (early ones had dollies) and roll them, very simple and easier on the back than tipping a towel rack cab (which I've also had.) If you have a head and have never used an SVT cab you are in for a treat. Stairs now that is another matter going down is easy, you just get in front so it doesn't go out of control and kill someone at the bottom, going up by your self REALLY sucks I've had to do it a few times. How's my tolex? What tolex? I scraped it all off years ago and repaint it every few years, no one notices the difference. I move all this stuff in a 95 Buick Estate Wagon, but they'll fit in most cars back seats.
 
#33
Whether I am using my SVT410HLF or my SVT810E, I use a Buick Station Wagon (like a previous poster) and one of these flat furniture dollys:

http://asrentall.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/flat-carpeted-dolly.jpg

One trip load in - even with an upright bass and an SVT on board. Easy peasy.

There are not many stairs where I typically gig (mostly in AZ) - but when going down stairs, I go first and gently ease the cab down (using gravity on my side (as opposed to fighting gravity with your upper body over-extended on the upper end). I leave the cab cover on (you should have a padded cab cover if damaging tolex and walls, stairs etc. is a concern for you) and slide the cab down top first so the cab remains in the cover (good 'ol gravity again).

On the way up - get help. If I have to do it myself, I wait for the crowd to dissipate, I push it up (top first) and, if needed, I take breaks by propping my lower leg against the bottom.

When I was younger, I used to put my rear end against the back of my SVT 810, bend at the knees until I could reach the towel bar (palms up, over my shoulders) lift, and walk it up and down stairs. I do not recommend this - looking back, I could of killed myself - I remember feeling one stairwell flexing considerably under the weight of me and my cab..

Personally, I prefer not asking friends/band mates for help because I prefer not to hear their input when I am choosing what gear I am going to use.
 
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#34
Bass 45 said:
Personally, I prefer not asking friends/band mates for help because I prefer not to hear their input when I am choosing what gear I am going to use.
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LOL! That's the way I feel, too. I can move it by myself no problem unless there's major stairs, but I solve that by not using it when there's major stairs. Living in Fla, though, there's very little worry about that. Some of these old Century Village stages have stairs, that's about it.
 
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#35
The 810 is far easier to move than a pair of 410's IMO because the thing is designed so it is its own dolly/handtruck. Even stairs aren't too bad as you just drag it up the stairs, letting the skidrails and wheels slide across the step edges. Very seldom will you have to support the entire weight of the cab. Taller is better in this case. Beats deadlifting a 2ft. cube and carrying it not being able to see what's in front of you.

Yeah, the tolex will get marked up, as will several doorframes, sheetrock walls, etc., but hey, it's rock-n-roll.
 
#36
Back when I played guitar in a band, I used a 4 x12 cabinet. Now, I use a 1 x 12 because I don't need the output (yes - a 4 x12 sounds better). If you need a big, loud box either hire roadies or go to the gym and get pumped.
By the way, besides the mid-bass punch you get from all that cone area in a SVT, what it delivers is massive amounts of comb filtering, also known as destructive interference. If you ran a frequency sweep through one you'll see the gigantic peaks and dips in its response. An SVT was awesome 45 years ago, but in my opinion you can do better now with a more modern design
 
#38
Gizmot said:
Back when I played guitar in a band, I used a 4 x12 cabinet. Now, I use a 1 x 12 because I don't need the output (yes - a 4 x12 sounds better). If you need a big, loud box either hire roadies or go to the gym and get pumped.
By the way, besides the mid-bass punch you get from all that cone area in a SVT, what it delivers is massive amounts of comb filtering, also known as destructive interference. If you ran a frequency sweep through one you'll see the gigantic peaks and dips in its response. An SVT was awesome 45 years ago, but in my opinion you can do better now with a more modern design
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810e doesn't comb filter. I've ran through many rooms using an SVT 810 to carry them and never once heard any peaks and dips in the room in 35 years of using one. It beams highs, but it doesn't comb filter. The funny thing about that, though, is those of us who use it and love it don't care about the beaming because it sounds kickass anyway. Besides, 3-way cabs are cool but they're nothing new. I know plenty of folks who had 3-way bass rigs when I was starting out.
 

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