It'll be a bitch. I've used them on several projects and once you push them together, they don't want to let go.
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Ampeg Cab Re-Finish
- Thread starter backin82
- Start date
Dannng. Yeah i replaced 1:1 so there is 9 attachment points .
Just started back up on mine. Finally decided to bite the bullet and just coat the entire cab surface with a generous coat (or two) of 2-part epoxy. Just drizzled it on, and spread with a plastic squeegee (the type you use with Bondo and other putties). Basically just trying to seal and stabilize the top surface of chipboard so it doesn't flake off. Once I'm done with this, I'll start with the Duratex, then will need to start ordering replacement corners, etc...
Note: I started by trying to use actual Bondo, and it worked great to fill gaps and missing chunks, but it just didn't have the structural capacity I wanted. The epoxy is MUCH stronger, and really ties the top surface together well. It also helps strengthen the relatively weak Cedar wood on the bottom corner.
Note: I started by trying to use actual Bondo, and it worked great to fill gaps and missing chunks, but it just didn't have the structural capacity I wanted. The epoxy is MUCH stronger, and really ties the top surface together well. It also helps strengthen the relatively weak Cedar wood on the bottom corner.
Wife and toddler are out of town for a few days, so I'm making hay.
First things first; I had to figure out the caster connection so it would no longer be my weak point. I decided to fabricate some small steel brackets to go inside. These were made from 1/8"x1-1/4" plate steel, and were very quickly and poorly constructed since they'll be hidden inside.
I mocked it up, and I *think* they will all work. Fingers crossed.
Next, I painted the front baffle flat black since I had sanded and epoxied some up front. Stuffed some paper bags inside to keep paint from getting on the padding (probably didn't matter either way).
Finally, I started rolling my first coat of Duratex. I was dumb, and I should have primed the whole surface black first just as a nice base coat. Oh well, I have enough Duratex to do 20 coats, so I'll just make sure I do enough coats to cover it all well. I'm pretty happy with the results so far. It's finally time to order some of the hardware from Fliptops (cups, corners, and kick plate needed).
First things first; I had to figure out the caster connection so it would no longer be my weak point. I decided to fabricate some small steel brackets to go inside. These were made from 1/8"x1-1/4" plate steel, and were very quickly and poorly constructed since they'll be hidden inside.
I mocked it up, and I *think* they will all work. Fingers crossed.
Next, I painted the front baffle flat black since I had sanded and epoxied some up front. Stuffed some paper bags inside to keep paint from getting on the padding (probably didn't matter either way).
Finally, I started rolling my first coat of Duratex. I was dumb, and I should have primed the whole surface black first just as a nice base coat. Oh well, I have enough Duratex to do 20 coats, so I'll just make sure I do enough coats to cover it all well. I'm pretty happy with the results so far. It's finally time to order some of the hardware from Fliptops (cups, corners, and kick plate needed).
Good idea. I'll add that to my list of tasks. I'm hoping to get a couple coats of Duratex on tomorrow, so it'll look and feel pretty complete. Biggest remaining challenge is the grill. The original frame is kinda bent, and I'm not sure if the clips will hold it. Hopefully I don't have to remake the grill.
Over the years I’ve owned three different Ampeg 8x10s and a 6x10 and on none of them did the grill clips ever hold. If you’re gigging and moving them it gets old fast having the grill come off. I always ended up using screws. You can see them in this pic.
I have a 70 something V4b head that a previous owner covered with gray carpet. After seeing your first coats of Duratex I’m tempted to re-do the head case in such.
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Good idea with the screws! And yeah - you could do a V4 with a pint of Duratex. It goes a long way, and the textured rollers are super easy to use. I'll probably do 3 coats minimum on this one. You can do less if you prime first with black as an undercoat.
I like it from a coverage standpoint, but it's not very durable. It scratches extremely easily. I almost wonder about doing a bedliner type finish as a top coat or something, but maybe that's not worth the effort and cost. I'll probably just go with 3-4 coats of Duratex and call it good.
Edit: Doing some research on various roll-on finishes, and Herculiner looks like an option due to it's combination of rubberized, textured finish with a lot of hardness. I might try that and report back. I'm not usually a fan of how the bedliner stuff looks, but this one might actually look ok.
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Its been durable for me but I don't gig out much anymore so if I were dragging my cabs to gigs I might feel different . In any case its easy to touch up and looks pretty good to . Your cab is going to look great .
The manufacturer does advise priming a bare surface with latex primer.
As far as scratch-resistance goes, it's advantageous to make the initial coat or two (or three) as thin as possible and allow plenty of time for drying between applications.
I think it's pointless to put bed-liner OVER Duratex.
In my experience, the scratches haven't been due to flaking (bond failure); it's just a very soft compound. So soft that one can easily scrape it off with your fingernail, and for sure if you ran it into a wall corner or truck bed. It also the easiest substance in the history of the universe to sand. I could sand 3 coats off of this 810 in less than 30 mins. I'll give it some more thought, but the idea of a tougher compound with the same look is ideal.
Additionally - if this was a 210 or a 112 (something small enough to carry by a handle and easily place where you need it), I really wouldn't worry about it. But if *ever* plan on taking this beast to a gig, then it'll have to go in the back of a truck, a trailer, or back seat, which means scraping it across various surfaces, which means scratching the heck out of it in the process.
I'm really no expert, as I only use Duratex for quickie, one-off projects. (I have access to a really good bedliner guy.) But this hasn't been my experience and if it was that soft, I don't think it would be as popular as it is with DIY speaker-builders. I wonder if there isn't something wrong with your application technique...or even with your batch of the product itself. One experience I've had is it doesn't seem to cure as hard if applied on a really hot day, of which we have plenty. And with which I'm sure you're familiar as well, as I see where you're located. As I say, I'm no expert.
More progress pics from today's efforts. Just some rounding of bracket corners per @Funk With Me 's recommendation. Not sure if it's enough, but......well........it's enough. I'm tired of working on them. Not much of a metal worker, haha.
And another full coat of Duratex. I'm planning to do at least 3, maybe 4 coats total. I'll post pics when I'm done with that phase.
And another full coat of Duratex. I'm planning to do at least 3, maybe 4 coats total. I'll post pics when I'm done with that phase.
Quoting (again), nearly 6 years later, for truth. We have a paint crew coming today to start the work of repainting the exterior of our house. Definitely something I could do myself, but would have taken me 6 months. This crew will apparently do it in 2 daysCongratulations on the new old house. You'll be able to enjoy restoration work for many, many, did I say many?, years to come.
Quoting (again), nearly 6 years later, for truth. We have a paint crew coming today to start the work of repainting the exterior of our house. Definitely something I could do myself, but would have taken me 6 months. This crew will apparently do it in 2 days
I wonder if they are going to do some of it with a sprayer. A great time saver.
Not sure. Spray is ok if they do it right and cleanup well. My contractor got the highest quality Sherwin Williams paint type, and is apparently putting two coats on. So it should be good either way.
the 3m button tape stuff i got would probably hold The grill in place . That stuff absolutely shocked me with how strong it is . I also remember reading about people wetting the frame and then like hanging the most bent corner off a surface near the ground and then weighing down the overhang to the ground to bend it into place .. leaving it be for a day or so.
You cab looks amazing tho . First time really seeing how much support you put on the caster side . I just got the kick plate and lined the holes up then used a t nut on the inside , seems to hold very strong .
my duratex seems to hold fairly well. I have SOOO much left over so i might want to roll a few more coats on myself .. good thing about having so much is that you can patch repair to problem .
taking something like a 600grit and lightly going over the finish by hand really tied it together for me .
I'm definitely going to *try* bending the grill back out of it's slightly concave form. I'll need to lay it on some sawhorses or something, and leave it there for a while for that to work. As for the Duratex - it's great stuff, and goes a long way. I'm likely going to shoot for 4 coats on mine, and I'll still have half a gallon leftover!
And yeah, I was determined to not let the casters be my weak point. Also, have I mentioned that I'm a structural engineer?
